Anyone uses cambium savers?

[beastmaster]

I was working on a tall Stone Pine. The first branch was 60ft up. That branch has been used to ascend the tree for a long time. Though a large branch it was grooved and burnt pretty good, to the point it has to be doing some damage to the cambium. I've seen lots of similar examples on other trees that get trimmed regularly.
I own a cambium saver I use for a different purpose, but I have never used it for its intended task, nor have I ever seen one used, but my Conscience is starting to get to me a little. Does anyone use them on a day in day out basis? Does it slow you down much? Anyone have any views? thanks. Beastmaster

 

[VA-Sawyer]

Yes, I have two of them. I keep one on my good climbing line and one on my 'pine' climbing line. They are always on the rope, even when the rope is in the bag. I use spliced ends and have a biner that stays on the end of each line.
Once on site, use Big Shot to place throw line, attach climb line to end of throw line, and pull climb line into tree. I pause for a second, after the end of the climb line is over the limb and on the way down, to tie a slip knot in the ascending side of the climb line. Keep pulling to get the leather over the limb. Grab ascending side again and pull down while holding the other end, to pull out the slip knot.
I often use a quick snapping motion to get the throwline-climb rope connection over the branch or through the crotch. I do it again to get the leather over as well. Overall I would say I lose less than a minute per rope install to have a low friction/branch saving TIP.
In the rare cases where I can't get the leather into a crotch because of it catching on something, I just pull out the slip knot, tie off the end and climb SRT. Once I get up to the problem crotch, I manually place the leather and change back over to normal rig. On the trees I plan to ascend on SRT, I still try to place the leather to reduce possible damage from the rope sawing back and forth as I bounce my way up the line.
Removal is easy as well. I just pull the climb line, and the biner on the end catches the leather on the way out. If I'm over hard surface or the leather is in a tight location, I attach a throwline to the biner first so as to be able to work the line back and forth to get it out and control the landing speed on the hard surface.
I lose a lot more time over placing the throwline than I do because of the leather. That little leather tube makes the climb easier, makes my rope last longer and can be a selling tool for customers as well.
Try it for 30 days and I'll bet you will become hooked as well. I would rather give up my split tail than my leather tube.
Rick

 

[beowulf343]

Personally, i prefer the ring friction savers in these situations over the leather cambium protector. They both protect the tree, but the friction saver has more uses.

 

[puzzledmonkey]

Yep,ring one for me too.Takes a wee bit of getting used to,and remembering which way you pull back down(well for me anyway!)

 

[VA-Sawyer]

When I first started working as a groundie, the climber I was working for used the "rings on a strap" type. After a little practice I found them simple enough to use. I spent more time inspecting them before each use, than I actually spent setting them up.
When I bought all my own gear, I got the leather tube type to save money. About time I was getting ready to buy the 'ring and strap' type, the whole 'broken rings' thing came out and I just couldn't get comfortable with the idea. Too many ways they can fail.
Even if the entire leather tube were to vanish, your rope is still over the branch.
Rick

 

[beowulf343]

the whole 'broken rings' thing came out and I just couldn't get comfortable with the idea. Too many ways they can fail.

Wait a minute, what is this "whole broken ring thing?" I haven't heard this.

Are you saying rings are known to break on this: http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Friction-Management/2-Ring-Friction-Saver

 

[RacerX]

I use both. For rec climbing I like the ringed version for it's smoothness but it's more difficult to re-set my throwline when I'm done. I usually leave a piece of throwline in the canopy for the next time up.

 

[jefflovstrom]

We use friction saver's all the time. It helps to have different sizes.
Jeff

 

[VA-Sawyer]

I'm talking about the thing with the Kong rings breaking. I know that Buckingham uses their own rings, but the idea of hanging my life on two rings held onto a strap by stitching just seemed like too many possible failure points, any ONE of which would drop my fat backside.
The real kicker was watching folks pulling the units out of trees and letting them fall onto driveways.
I just feel safer with the line over the branch instead of hanging under it.

As far as smoothness goes, I spray the inside of the leather with dry teflon and then pull a rag through it a few times to keep the excess from transfering to the rope. I do it about twice a year to keep things smooth.
Rick

 

[deevo]

We use friction saver's all the time. It helps to have different sizes.
Jeff

Same here, like VA-Sawyer i have 2 in my bag for both my climbing lines!:agree2:

 

[eljefe]

Hi, I have both the Buckingham straps and the cambium saver. I use both. I like both. I like the B'ham for its low friction and I don't think the steel rings pose a breakage problem--I think that was aluminum ring failure, but not on B'ham stuff. When I am going to recrotch several times the cambium saver is faster. The B'ham, of course, can have a prussic added and used for cinching up the climb line with a prussic and ring added--very nice for take downs. I have had the B'ham rings catch on a little dead stub a time or two and this is just misery if you can not flip it loose. Instead of an easy 40 foot climb I found myself 60 feet up sweating all the way cause of the ring being caught and the climb line was very hard to pull through. I flipped the ring off the dead stub, but by that time it was dark and I had to come back the next day. Oh misery. The cambium saver can, of course, be used with a 1/2 inch rigging line--it poses no weight limit and can be used for any rigging job that can be be done with 1/2 inch line. That's nice.
I like VA-Sawyer's climb line with eyes in both ends and his method of using the cambium saver.. That sounds real fast and easy.
Eljefe

 

[ATH]

Wait a minute, what is this "whole broken ring thing?" I haven't heard this.

Are you saying rings are known to break on this: http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Friction-Management/2-Ring-Friction-Saver

If you have one with Aluminum rings that are NOT stamped, they were recalled a couple of years ago. Sherrill replaced them at the time...I assume they still would today. Even if nobody replaces it, take it out of service. If they are stamped with the weight rating, you are in good shaped.

 

[treeseer]

Switched from rings to leather; knots are easier for some reason plus the reasons VA noted. It's still not a habit, but it's handy enough that I can find and use it in thin-parked trees. Ascending SRT with the wraptor eliminates most cambium damage, but descending can rub the tree, and the rope, the wrong way, too.

 

[jefflovstrom]

You can set a friction saver fast. No reason not to use one if you got one.
Jeff

 

[Frax]

another positive

Our crew uses them most of the time - the ring type, more for pruing than removals but handy for both. Not only do they save the tree, they make it much easier to ascend or hoist yourself around in the tree. They save the rope too, big time.
Get a rope retriever to pull out the cambium saver at the end of the climb. Its a small plastic ball you attach to the free end of the rope when retrieving. It slips thru the large ring and catches on the small ring. Always works better than the knot method for me.