Asplundh 16" chipper rotor/drum

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Hayapower

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Jun 27, 2008
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Novato, Ca
Hey folks..

New here,, and actually found this site out of desperation/frustration.. I bought a 16" Asplundh chipper pretty cheap that I 'thought' the rotor/drum bearing/s siezed.. Turns out,, the rotor shaft on the flywheel side had sheared off behind the bearing retainer plate.. Dang!!! Does ANYONE have a decent used rotor for this machine?? JEY 14642.. Altecs price isn't worth the cost of this machine.. I'm a bit desperate since this machine was to go north (Northern CA current fires) for some ground fuel clearing!! If anyone could help with a used rotor unit for sale, I'd be very greatful... If so,, PM me and I'll send my phone number along..

Thanks....
 
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I have ran those type Asplundh/Altec machines forever and if you get one with a bad drum it is just a parts unit nowadays. You can get them but my lands you can find an old running machine for what they want for it.
 
Thanks for the reply..

Yeah,,, I figured at 6,100.00 (and a 6 week lead in time) this machine is pretty much done for.. Sad thing is, it has an almost new 300 6 with all the trimings, radiator, new tires, and the shoot has been converted to a rotating type.. What I was 'hoping' for was someone with a blown engine unit, maybe stuck bearings sit'n on the side of their barn deal ;) Guess i can jerk the engine and scrap the rest, but kinda a shame since it would be a pretty easy builder if the 'big part' hadn't broke.. Anyone want'a buy a nice chipper :)
 
I have repaired one of these. Take out the rotor, bore a hole the same dia as the shaft 6" deep, cut 2 1/2" key ways full depth. Have a shaft made to press in and accept the keys. Much cheaper than a new rotor.
 
Thanks Aaction..

That was one of the similar options I was concidering, but being it broke on the flywheel side worries me a tad more than if it had snapped on the pulley/drive end given the weight.. But I guess if one would let go with age,, thats the side that'll probably go first!! but I'm sure both ends are getting a good hammering anyway.. We have a pretty nice fab shop where I work, and I'm a master mechanic so I'm up for the task, and we also have a state of the art machine shop and industrial driveline outfit only a few miles away for the rotor bore and half shaft.. My first thought was a complete rotor bore and keyed/locked as a fix so that I'm sure to get a 'true runout', but I think that would be a bit spendy as well and I'm really not sure if it would comprimise the rotor integrity more or lesss than the half repair

I'm sure the repair would work, but did you run yours for any lenght of time with the patch?? Thats the thing that concerns me,, is longevity to $$ factor!! And maybe my own if the thing decides to let go!!!

I'll get some prices for a rotor bore, as well as the shaft stub to see if it doable..

Thanks again...
 
Hi H,
Ours ran for many years after the repair. We only stopped using it when our Workcover Authority (same as OSHA) banned the chuck and ducks.
 
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