Assembly Questions For My Stihl 024AV

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Targa

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As some folks on this forum might have read from some previous threads, I'm trying to restore my Stihl 024AV chainsaw to good working and starting condition.

I've disassembled and cleaned it as well as vacuum and pressure tested the case, fuel tank and fuel and impulse lines. Now I'm about to start reassembly and have a couple of questions.

1. Should I use any type of sealer when installing the new oil line into the case as well as attaching the oil pump to the flared part of the oil line that protrudes from the case?

2. Should I use any Loctite Threadlock on any of the fasteners during reassembly and, if so, which ones?

I would appreciate any input and suggestions

Thank you
 
I have 3 024s. They are my go-to saws so they get heavy use. Never used Loctite and I've never had a faster come loose. I wouldn't use any sealer either. This is a well designed saw that has stood the test of time.
 
I have 3 024s. They are my go-to saws so they get heavy use. Never used Loctite and I've never had a faster come loose. I wouldn't use any sealer either. This is a well designed saw that has stood the test of time.

So, you are thinking since you have never had a fastener come loose they don't come loose..
 
So, you are thinking since you have never had a fastener come loose they don't come loose..
I not sure how to take this:
1.Experience doesn't count for anything?
2. If you have a good IQ you don't need experience?
3. A loose fastener means you have a low IQ or is it a high IQ?
4. If you are thinking about fasteners then they may come loose?
5. Fasteners and AS posters have about the same IQ?
6. You love the IQ of some posters. Does that mean it is higher or lower than yours?
Boy I"m so confused.
 
I think some of the 024's had plain Allen screws. The Stihl Torx screws have a pattern on the bottom of the screw that acts as a lock washer. They usually do not have an issue coming loose. So, if you have Allens get some 5 mm .8 Stihl Torx. 20 mm long.
Or, Red Loctite.
Somebody went to the hardware store for the allen screws. I've replaced Stihl self-tapping with allens, not the T-27s.

009 muffler inner case tapped for 5mm cap screw.jpg009 muffler installed.jpg
 
Well, I have never had one come loose either. But, I repair Stihl equipment with loose or missing screws almost every week. Often it has vibrated until the threads are gone. Fortunately you can tap it up to 12-24 SAE and get enough meat to hold for a while anyway.
To the OP, keep your chain sharp and you will likely have no problems.

But still, I have repaired plenty of those vintage saws with the muffler rattled off.
 
Somebody went to the hardware store for the allen screws. I've replaced Stihl self-tapping with allens, not the T-27s.

View attachment 1043030View attachment 1043033


Looks good. I'm sure you are familiar with the serrated or whatever you call it bottom on the OEM Stihl screws. I don't know whether they work all that much better, but you can see the marks they leave behind.

I guess I would rather have them come loose than break. If I never have to remove a broken muffler screw again it would be fine. TS420's are the world's worse to keep muffler screws in.
 
OEM Muffler screws with thread lock.
IMG_0718.JPG
 
Well, I have never had one come loose either. But, I repair Stihl equipment with loose or missing screws almost every week. Often it has vibrated until the threads are gone. Fortunately you can tap it up to 12-24 SAE and get enough meat to hold for a while anyway.
To the OP, keep your chain sharp and you will likely have no problems.

But still, I have repaired plenty of those vintage saws with the muffler rattled


Insulting my iq? Really.
 

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