Auxillary Oiler Bar Sprocket Location?

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GeneralKayoss

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So I've ordered an aluminum oil/coolant catch can to serve as the tank. I'll slap a plumbing ball valve in there and use an air fitting to reduce the end.

Where is the optimal location for the oil to drip/drizzle? Should I drill a hole? Focus it over the sprocket grease hole? 17095962190785883626841468650249.jpg
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Drip on to chain on bottom side of bar right where it straightens out after coming around the nose sprocket. I have both a drip set up, and an oiler bolt setup for one of my lo pro bars that came with a predrilled oiler hole near the nose. I need to work on my feed though because I have a hose that feeds way too much oil with valve opened fully, and it's hard to choke off to just the right flow without it eventually coming to a stop. I should try a section of much smaller hose or some kind of fitting to reduce the end. i just want to be able to open the valve to full and call it good.
 
Drip on to chain on bottom side of bar right where it straightens out after coming around the nose sprocket. I have both a drip set up, and an oiler bolt setup for one of my lo pro bars that came with a predrilled oiler hole near the nose. I need to work on my feed though because I have a hose that feeds way too much oil with valve opened fully, and it's hard to choke off to just the right flow without it eventually coming to a stop. I should try a section of much smaller hose or some kind of fitting to reduce the end. i just want to be able to open the valve to full and call it good.
I'm using a good old plumbing ball valve and a male and female 1/4" air nipple screwed together with the hose clamped on one end to reduce end flow (fits perfect on 3/8" hose) This was a mock setup I did tonight. Worked perfect! I'll be using some clear 3/8" tubing for the actual hose though and the tank above. I saw they sell fittings that clamp to your bar, but I don't like the way they wrap around the chain.

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Looks good. I have the same ball valve, will try that air fitting combo to reduce end flow, have some extras around I think. My 045 Super oils like a maniac so don’t need it for my 36” lo pro bar, only used the aix oiler when I was using my weak oiling 64cc Makita. And my 880 oils a 42” bar well enough I hardly need it for that. Have the aux oiler on my 60” mill now just for using the 72” bar or a 48-52” bar I’m looking to opportunistically get. Doubt I’ll put one on my 36” mill.
 
Looks good. I have the same ball valve, will try that air fitting combo to reduce end flow, have some extras around I think. My 045 Super oils like a maniac so don’t need it for my 36” lo pro bar, only used the aix oiler when I was using my weak oiling 64cc Makita. And my 880 oils a 42” bar well enough I hardly need it for that. Have the aux oiler on my 60” mill now just for using the 72” bar or a 48-52” bar I’m looking to opportunistically get. Doubt I’ll put one on my 36” mill.
Not sure if it really reduces flow, as a lot of oil could still come out through that hole on fully open valve, just helps to aim it a little better. I figure just enough to get a steady drizzle should be sufficient! I even tried installing an aftermarket oiler with a better flow rating and drilling out the bar oiler holes a little, but it still couldn't even handle some 24" or so pecan. Was gumming up bad, you can see the remnants in the pic with a nice coating of WD40 lol.
 
Not sure if it really reduces flow, as a lot of oil could still come out through that hole on fully open valve, just helps to aim it a little better.
That's what I need, a metal end that stays in place over the chain. My hose end zip tied to the post is too flexible and tends to wander too much. I can always crimp the metal end of anything a bit til I get the flow I want at wide open.
 
That's what I need, a metal end that stays in place over the chain. My hose end zip tied to the post is too flexible and tends to wander too much. I can always crimp the metal end of anything a bit til I get the flow I want at wide open.
Good idea, I might actually fill the nipple with epoxy putty and drill it back out a little smaller.
 
Drip on to chain on bottom side of bar right where it straightens out after coming around the nose sprocket. I have both a drip set up, and an oiler bolt setup for one of my lo pro bars that came with a predrilled oiler hole near the nose. I need to work on my feed though because I have a hose that feeds way too much oil with valve opened fully, and it's hard to choke off to just the right flow without it eventually coming to a stop. I should try a section of much smaller hose or some kind of fitting to reduce the end. i just want to be able to open the valve to full and call it good.
You need to use a needle valve. Look at drip oilers for old equipment or "auto" oilers for industrial chains. They will have the valves that work real well, and they arnt very expensive.
 
Not that I run an aux oiler on smaller bars (40" and under) but I prefer the banjo/hollow bolt with hole in the bar method. Dripping bar oil on the chain doesn't evenly distribute the oil on the chain. Just drips it on one side and isn't really all that useful imo. You're trying to reduce friction in the bar groove so the oil should have every opportunity to get where its actually needed. It does take a bit more effort to get it set up right, but ultimately works better and takes less oil then the spray and pray method.
 
Not that I run an aux oiler on smaller bars (40" and under) but I prefer the banjo/hollow bolt with hole in the bar method.
So what would be the proper way to do the banjo bolt? Drill a hole right at the bottom edge of the bar slot all the way through, shim with washers to get hole centered in bar slot, then find some kind of fitting to attach the hose to feed the threaded end of the bolt? M8? M6?
 
So what would be the proper way to do the banjo bolt? Drill a hole right at the bottom edge of the bar slot all the way through, shim with washers to get hole centered in bar slot, then find some kind of fitting to attach the hose to feed the threaded end of the bolt?
Yes, in a nut shell. I didn't use a store bought banjo bolt and made my own out of a 7/16" bolt and tapped the center for 1/8" pipe thread to make the connection a bit easier (50 ways to skin a cat here.) This allowed me to use to use the cross hole as a restrictor to control oil flow. You could do the same thing with a smaller bolt and turn down the threads into a barb and just clamp a hose to it. Either way it's fairly easy to do. The hardest part was drilling the bar and getting the hole at just the right spot.
 
Yes, in a nut shell. I didn't use a store bought banjo bolt and made my own out of a 7/16" bolt and tapped the center for 1/8" pipe thread to make the connection a bit easier (50 ways to skin a cat here.) This allowed me to use to use the cross hole as a restrictor to control oil flow. You could do the same thing with a smaller bolt and turn down the threads into a barb and just clamp a hose to it. Either way it's fairly easy to do. The hardest part was drilling the bar and getting the hole at just the right spot.
I always overthink things. I'm sitting here thinking of what fitting I could use to connect the hose to the bolt when I could just slap a hose clamp on there. "Keep It Simple Stupid" 😂

I think I'll just try the drip method to start with (before I drill holes in my bar) and see how that does for now. But in the future I'll probably end up getting a 48" bar, and that would def require a more efficient delivery system like you're talking about.
 
The hardest part was drilling the bar and getting the hole at just the right spot.
Yeah, I was thrilled when I got some cheap demo/display lopro bars from the UK and the guy had already drilled them properly for an oiler and even included the oiler bolt. So I just have to drill the hole in any bar I want to put it on. Can pretty much trace location off my lo pro bar, adjust a little lower for a .404 bar. I found some cheap as dirt carbide tip multipurpose bits I got from China that work fantastic for bar drilling. Drilled new oiler holes on my 72" titanium GB bar effortlessly with them on my drill press. I learned awhile back that sharpening carbide tipped concrete bits a little makes them great bits for drilling ultra hard steel, but that's basically what these are already. It's crazy to me that next to no one has ever marketed these type of bits in the US for hard steel drilling, simplest cheapest bits imaginable. Bosch makes single bits kinda like this for $6-7 each that don't even work as well. The orange ones not the black ones shown. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805006277583.html
You also can get a Granberg oiler bolt too to save yourself making one.
https://www.shforestrysupplies.com/920p-967-granberg-oil-injector-bolt.html
Only downside to the oiler bolt location is it means you can't max out the bar with the outer clamp to its limits. But I mostly do that on sub-42" bars I'm not using an aux oiler on anyway. Otherwise I prefer drilling and tapping a thread in the upper part of the clamp, drilling holes in the bar, and bolting the bar directly to the mill. And when I do that, the aux oiler bolt always ends up on the outside of the mill where it needs to be.
 
I have an assortment of solid carbide drill bits left over from working at a machine shop. Expensive and easy to break. Never thought of using masonry bits. Good idea.
Yes, I agree. I don't run an auxiliary oiler in my 36" bar. The 394xp oils it plenty well. Got rid of my larger set up, as I didn't use it very often. Agree on the clamps too. Just sucks up bar space. Stud mounted is a much better way.
 
Yes, in a nut shell. I didn't use a store bought banjo bolt and made my own out of a 7/16" bolt and tapped the center for 1/8" pipe thread to make the connection a bit easier (50 ways to skin a cat here.) This allowed me to use to use the cross hole as a restrictor to control oil flow. You could do the same thing with a smaller bolt and turn down the threads into a barb and just clamp a hose to it. Either way it's fairly easy to do. The hardest part was drilling the bar and getting the hole at just the right spot.
I'm a visual person, pics?
 
https://www.granberg.com/product/0967f-bar-oil-injector/
In a nut shell this is what I made. I don't have any pictures of my old set up, and no longer have the 084av or the bar with the aux oiler set up.
Here's the Granberg add on kit. Usually you can cobble something together cheaper at home.
https://www.granberg.com/product/g801a-auxillary-oiler-kit/
Granberg done lost their minds! They want pretty much $100 for everything. I'll have about 30 bucks invested doing it myself lol
 
Granberg done lost their minds! They want pretty much $100 for everything. I'll have about 30 bucks invested doing it myself lol
I didn't have any pictures of how the big mill was set up on my phone, so it was an easy way to show the basic idea. I'd never buy any of their set up. Too expensive for what you get. I certainly didn't come up with the idea, but I thought it was a good idea to share.
 
Granberg done lost their minds! They want pretty much $100 for everything. I'll have about 30 bucks invested doing it myself lol
Most simple niche products like this make way more sense to do DIY and there didn't even used to be a market for such things because everyone chainsaw milling was so competently DIY and no one would buy them just make them. I did the basic PVC pipe and end caps reservoir a lot of people do, threaded a fitting on the bottom and hose clamped it on the post. Same with router planing sleds, all the companies making them now want top dollar for easily buildable professional systems with linear rails you can put together for 1/3 of their price. But there are a bunch of hobbyists getting into the slab game with money now who will pay to have it made for them.
 

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