Auxillary Oiler Bar Sprocket Location?

[GeneralKayoss]

Most simple niche products like this make way more sense to do DIY and there didn't even used to be a market for such things because everyone chainsaw milling was so competently DIY and no one would buy them just make them. I did the basic PVC pipe and end caps reservoir a lot of people do, threaded a fitting on the bottom and hose clamped it on the post. Same with router planing sleds, all the companies making them now want top dollar for easily buildable professional systems with linear rails you can put together for 1/3 of their price. But there are a bunch of hobbyists getting into the slab game with money now who will pay to have it made for them.

 

[sean donato]

Just wait till you're hiding saws from your wife so she doesn't know you bought another one...lol

 

[GeneralKayoss]

Just wait till you're hiding saws from your wife so she doesn't know you bought another one...lol

Lol! I already have plans for a router sled, couple sets of linear slide rails mounted to each other and a 1/2" acrylic base to mount the router to.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

Just wait till you're hiding saws from your wife so she doesn't know you bought another one...lol

I had to do that with the broken MS361 I got last year- when she found out I promised her it was so I could sell my working 455 Ranchers. Never ended up happening lol. (Not that I don't want to, just not a local market for them.) Hoping my tree service buddy is willing to take one off my hands cheap in exchange for his dead 359 he brought me. How do you like your 359?

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

Lol! I already have plans for a router sled, couple sets of linear slide rails mounted to each other and a 1/2" acrylic base to mount the router to.

I'm going backwards technologically. I haven't had any kind of router sled table for awhile and have been getting by okay without it. You can level a lot with a 3 1/4 planer and 16" planer. Get the high spots/twist out of a piece basically level on one side with the 3 1/4 and anything up to 16" wide the large planer will then be able to do the other side level and then you can flip it over and level any imperfections out of the hand leveled side. Large slabs with twist I'm beginning to think chainsaw leveling with lo pro chain is a much faster easier way to do it than a big router sled setup. If you can build a router sled you can build a chainsaw leveler on the same linear rails rig. For me, the ridiculous hardness of most of the wood I deal with makes router planing that much harder and time consuming. Plus while router planing is generally decent on flat sawn grain, it's been hell on edge grain of big cookies for me and leaves you with a terrible chippy rough surface.

 

[sean donato]

I had to do that with the broken MS361 I got last year- when she found out I promised her it was so I could sell my working 455 Ranchers. Never ended up happening lol. (Not that I don't want to, just not a local market for them.) Hoping my tree service buddy is willing to take one off my hands cheap in exchange for his dead 359 he brought me. How do you like your 359?

good little saw, very dependable never had any grief from it. Basically just a back up saw at this point. Thunk my brother uses it more then I do. Certainly doesn't owe me anything.

 

[GeneralKayoss]

I'm going backwards technologically. I haven't had any kind of router sled table for awhile and have been getting by okay without it. You can level a lot with a 3 1/4 planer and 16" planer. Get the high spots/twist out of a piece basically level on one side with the 3 1/4 and anything up to 16" wide the large planer will then be able to do the other side level and then you can flip it over and level any imperfections out of the hand leveled side. Large slabs with twist I'm beginning to think chainsaw leveling with lo pro chain is a much faster easier way to do it than a big router sled setup. If you can build a router sled you can build a chainsaw leveler on the same linear rails rig. For me, the ridiculous hardness of most of the wood I deal with makes router planing that much harder and time consuming. Plus while router planing is generally decent on flat sawn grain, it's been hell on edge grain of big cookies for me and leaves you with a terrible chippy rough surface.

Problem is I don't really plan on milling that much stuff under 16". Kinda wish they made open ended planers like the drum sanders you can get. The hand plane is a great idea for the really high spots before doing your final surfacing. And the bigger 25"+ planers cost an arm a leg and a kidney lol

 

[GeneralKayoss]

Now if it would just stop raining long enough to test it out!

 

[Lightning Performance]

Now if it would just stop raining long enough to test it out!
View attachment 1160001

Just like that in that spot. Grease your bar sprockets or don't. Choose now and stick with it. Grease will block the oil flow.
Gas needle valves are good for fine flow control. Buy the mini one that comes with a one foot braided line attached. Bunsen burner comes to mind used with natural gas not propane. The hole is much larger. Drilling it bigger is okay too.

What name are the pretty red brackets sold under?

 

[GeneralKayoss]

Just like that in that spot. Grease your bar sprockets or don't. Choose now and stick with it. Grease will block the oil flow.
Gas needle valves are good for fine flow control. Buy the mini one that comes with a one foot braided line attached. Bunsen burner comes to mind used with natural gas not propane. The hole is much larger. Drilling it bigger is okay too.

What name are the pretty red brackets sold under?

Testing it out and it seems to be working great! I estimated perfect, when milling downhill at a 15 degree angle or so it drips perfectly on the edge of the bar. Valve holds it's position after I set it (was worried about that). I grease my bar sprocket after every running day. The mill is "Zozen" brand, on Amazon.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Testing it out and it seems to be working great! I estimated perfect, when milling downhill at a 15 degree angle or so it drips perfectly on the edge of the bar. Valve holds it's position after I set it (was worried about that). I grease my bar sprocket after every running day. The mill is "Zozen" brand, on Amazon.

View attachment 1160295

Check the mill brackets to posts with a square and file the V brackets if needed. Had one whacked out set. You shouldn't have any issues with chain stretch or bar wear. You can run cannola in the saw or the drip. Dump the saw and replace it with regular bar oil everyday then run it through. Overnight hurts nothing. Long term is bad if it was already heated up. Don't use old fryer oil.

I don't grease nose sprockets most times unless it has a roller nose.

 

[GeneralKayoss]

Check ithe mill brackets to posts with a square and file the V brackets if needed. Had one whacked out set. You shouldn't have any issues with chain stretch or bar wear. You can run cannola in the saw or the drip. Dump the saw and replace it with regular bar oil everyday then run it through. Overnight hurts nothing. Long term is bad if it was already heated up. Don't use old fryer oil.

I don't grease nose sprockets most times unless it has a roller nose.

I was thinking about mixing one part bar oil to one part used motor oil for the drip? Probably ended up wasting a quart forgetting to turn off the valve today . Using Archer ripping chains, they've been holding up very well with very little stretching even with the lack of oil before. Same for the bar, hasn't even chipped the paint yet! I've milled about 35 slabs from 5-8' and 16-26" wide with this setup so far.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

Problem is I don't really plan on milling that much stuff under 16". Kinda wish they made open ended planers like the drum sanders you can get. The hand plane is a great idea for the really high spots before doing your final surfacing. And the bigger 25"+ planers cost an arm a leg and a kidney lol

I mill a lot of 20"+ stuff that ends up under 16" trimmed to formal dimensions. Depends on whether you plan to do most everything live edge or not. All big planers cost a fortune, no doubt. I wish I had a high quality router sled setup for sure, nothing beats it for low budget large slab leveling. And most of my finish issues have been from not having a linear rail system - if the router can tilt or kick up at all it's hard to maintain a smooth finish. I just got tired of my old school low low budget system. Linear rails are the way to go. I also wouldn't mind having one of those big 6" Makita hand planers. Cheap as dirt second hand from Japan, $150-250 compared to $800-900 new here, but I don't what you need to do to make them work on our electric. Oh, I guess with a cheap stepdown transformer they will fine. Hmmmm.... then there's this monstrosity for $2500 new, I had no idea there was such a thing as 12" timber frame planers. https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/KP312

 

[Lightning Performance]

I was thinking about mixing one part bar oil to one part used motor oil for the drip? Probably ended up wasting a quart forgetting to turn off the valve today . Using Archer ripping chains, they've been holding up very well with very little stretching even with the lack of oil before. Same for the bar, hasn't even chipped the paint yet! I've milled about 35 slabs from 5-8' and 16-26" wide with this setup so far.

You like wearing toxic oils?

 

[GeneralKayoss]

You like wearing toxic oils?

I've worn worse. I ended up deciding against it as it really gets everything so black and dirty. You, your saw, the wood, the ground etc lol.