Back cut level with conventional notch?

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Dutch cut

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I was working with a guy this past week on a job and he told me that the back cut on a conventional notch is now being taught to be level with the face cut instead of a little above it as traditionally done. I had heard nothing about this, has anyone else?
 
Yes, I have heard that and have seen some services starting to do it that way. One of the guys from this site that I contracted a few years back was doing it that way and said that that's what they are teaching now. I still like to cut a couple of inches above my horizontal cut to give me a little leeway on the hinge. Just seems like it would be too easy to miss your notch and cut below it trying to cut level with the notch... I figure if it's not broke then don't fix it...
 
i know that they say to line up your cuts when drop cuting limbs now to avoid it grabing your saw
 
If you make an open face notch (notch open greater than 90 degrees) the ledge (stump shot) is not needed. The tree should stay connected to the stump through the fall keeping if from kicking back off the stump.

If the notch is less than 90 degrees than stumpshot should be used, 10 percent the diameter of the tree.

Not trying to preach here, just my experience.
 
i know that they say to line up your cuts when drop cuting limbs now to avoid it grabing your saw

I go out a kerf width or so with the top cut to asure I am not behind the other cut, causing the limb to hang on the cut and tip down instead of releasing clean. I was taught to line the cuts up when I started, there's a time and place for all 3.

You want a really clean release, do an under cut, cut the sides in (Coos Bay Cut) and then line up the top cut and race it through.
 
I would like to add that in a tree I am a big supporter of open face and humboldt notches and usually use these instead of a lot of stump shot.

And for felling cuts I agree that it is better to have a little stump shot than sloping or too low of a back cut.
 
i know that they say to line up your cuts when drop cuting limbs now to avoid it grabing your saw

Yeah because with the "snap cut / drop cut / 3 step cut" you are just making an undercut instead of a notch so the wood can have that "barberchair/splitting" effect which i have only ever had grab my saw when i was snap cutting big wood instead of notching it.
 

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