Backup generator opinions.

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We have 3 of the 420#/120 gallon tanks, that have a nominal usable capacity of 100 gallons each, but those aren’t transportable. I do have two 100#/25 gallon cylinders that I can transport to refill if needed, and several 30#, and a 20# tank that I can use in a real pinch.

We are in the middle of a major kitchen remodel, and the Wife is Excited About her new 6 burner range, so we do have gas in the house now, and our contractor is installing a gas connection for the BBQ, unfortunately, our water heater died about a year before we had the propane tanks, so we had to replace it with another electric unit, any future water heaters would be propane


Doug 😎
Heck just toss one in the truck....that is what we would do here but this is hillbilly, redneck country :)

Out here we have an abundance of old NH3 tanks so you can get real portable. I have pulled two in tandem empty at 60MPH........not advisable

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/grd/d/red-wing-tank-for-propane-or-ammonia-or/7666525792.html
 
Eh. I've got a 200 amp manual switch box if I get ambitious. The heavy wires going in to my 200amp box are really hard to work with, and that setup is entirely code-compliant. If I were to install any sort of switch between my meter and my breaker box, it would no longer be safe from the code inspectors, and wouldn't change much of anything from a user's perspective. Right now, the feed from my meter box outside goes through the wall, straight in to my breaker box. The only way to make an automatic or manual switch code compliant would be to remove my breaker box, pick up the leads coming from the meter box, and then do some pricey electrical expansions. Lots of work, no gain for just a manual switch.

Now I can see the advantages of the automatic switch for folks with medical problems, equipment that cannot be interrupted, or even the people that have an unreliable electric grid.

My power goes off about once every two months, but usually for less than 1/2 hour, and rarely for more than a few hours. I don't think I've plugged in the generator for about 5 years.
Why?
 
It has a guage built in, never let it get below 10 %, call for refill around July to beat the rise in fuel rates for winter. LP is $3.50 a gal to refill at the local service station, a better deal than the fuel mafia providers in our area. We use on average 1 gal a day yr round for hot water, cooking, cloths dryer and thermostatically controlled heater that sees very little use. I refill my own tanks now and don't depend on fuel delivery anymore, got tired of getting ripped off The local gas station has had the same price for going on 2 yrs with no rise for winter or summer, so they will continue to get my business.
So who are you buying from and what are you paying?
 
Eh. I've got a 200 amp manual switch box if I get ambitious. The heavy wires going in to my 200amp box are really hard to work with, and that setup is entirely code-compliant. If I were to install any sort of switch between my meter and my breaker box, it would no longer be safe from the code inspectors, and wouldn't change much of anything from a user's perspective. Right now, the feed from my meter box outside goes through the wall, straight in to my breaker box. The only way to make an automatic or manual switch code compliant would be to remove my breaker box, pick up the leads coming from the meter box, and then do some pricey electrical expansions. Lots of work, no gain for just a manual switch.

Now I can see the advantages of the automatic switch for folks with medical problems, equipment that cannot be interrupted, or even the people that have an unreliable electric grid.

My power goes off about once every two months, but usually for less than 1/2 hour, and rarely for more than a few hours. I don't think I've plugged in the generator for about 5 years.
I am going to suggest you lookup Generlink before saying you cant place anything between the meter and the meter base. https://www.generlink.com/ Generlink is code compliant and approved to use most everywhere. The power company installs it and it is a automatic switch, not a manual. It has a special outlet to plug in your generator and your current switch panel isnt effected, rewired, or tampered with in any manner. You dont need another breakerbox, If you dont have enough generator to power every breaker in your panel, you simply turn off or on whichever circuit you do or donot need.

Currently on my house I have a 200amp breaker box that supplies power to my inside 200amp breaker box as well as my HVAC, well pump, my shop as well as a 50amp rv outlet. currently, I plug my generator into the rv connection and turn off the 200amp breaker that supplies the house. This is a manual transfer switch and I would guess you already know the hazard of using the generator if one was to forget to turn off the breaker. I am getting away from using this setup. I didnt install this setup, it was already here when I bought the place. It works but I worry about not being home and my wife needs the generator running and she forgets to flip the breaker, or someone hooks it up for her and they dont flip the switch.

I dont need to debate the the merits of using a generator or transfer switch. You did touch on some of the reasons I chose to go with the generlink transferswitch. 1. Not using any type of transfer switch can create a deadly condition.2. Using some other kind of transfer switch, besides the Generlink, requires buying additional equipment as well as having to hire a licensed electricion to do the install, and having to have the power company pull the meter and also have the local inspector inspect the work.
Advantage of using the Generlink, it is supplied and installed by the power company, takes less than 30min to install and its ready to use. I also dont have to even contact the local inspectors office and I dont have to buy any additional equipment. I can also take it with me if I decide to sell this house and have it installed in a new location, without leaving a mess of unused breaker boxes hanging on the side of the house.

I started this thread to ask about the Duramax engines and their reliability. Do you have any information to share about the Duramax generators.
 
I am going to suggest you lookup Generlink before saying you cant place anything between the meter and the meter base.
I believe you are getting a bit confused as the meter is in the the meter base ..... :) This is what he said

Eh. I've got a 200 amp manual switch box if I get ambitious. The heavy wires going in to my 200amp box are really hard to work with, and that setup is entirely code-compliant. If I were to install any sort of switch between my meter and my breaker box, it would no longer be safe from the code inspectors, and wouldn't change much of anything from a user's perspective.
 
Heck just toss one in the truck....that is what we would do here but this is hillbilly, redneck country :)

Out here we have an abundance of old NH3 tanks so you can get real portable. I have pulled two in tandem empty at 60MPH........not advisable

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/grd/d/red-wing-tank-for-propane-or-ammonia-or/7666525792.html

Uhm Bill, a 420#/120 gallon tank weighs about 300# empty, and well, holds 420# of propane when it is full so “Throwing it in the Truck” really isn’t an option.

I could hand truck load an empty into my ramp gate trailers, even unload a full one from either trailer, but using the pickup wouldn’t be practical or Safe, and then getting them back where they belong full wouldn’t be exactly be convenient or easy

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I had all eight EMPTY tanks in the enclosed trailer to transport them them home from Cheyenne, and the open trailer now has “E Track “ on all four rows of side boards to secure loads, but I don’t have intention of transporting the 420#/120 gallon tanks again, or filled



Doug 😎
 
Uhm Bill, a 420#/120 gallon tank weighs about 300# empty, and well, holds 420# of propane when it is full so “Throwing it in the Truck” really isn’t an option.

I could hand truck load an empty into my ramp gate trailers, even unload a full one from either trailer, but using the pickup wouldn’t be practical or Safe, and then getting them back where they belong full wouldn’t be exactly be convenient or easy

I had all eight EMPTY tanks in the enclosed trailer to transport them them home from Cheyenne, and the open trailer now has “E Track “ on all four rows of side boards to secure loads, but I don’t have intention of transporting the 420#/120 gallon tanks again, or filled

Doug 😎
Doug,

C,mon you are using terms that are not part of redneck country vocabulary. I did not say anything about practical, safe, convenient or easy. :) Sometimes we do things that highly impractical, totally inconvenient, aaaa slightly unsafe, actually not all that easy, but by gosh we get the job done, we have fun, and we have a good story to tell.(hopefully)

 
Now on a serious note there is no doubt just tossing one in the truck is not as easy as I make it seem. We could do it here because I would just load and unload it with the tractor or skidloader. If I really wanted to be funny as long as the grapple skidder was home I use it but that would not be a wise choice.
 
I believe you are getting a bit confused as the meter is in the the meter base ..... :) This is what he said

I think you are being confused when I said manual switch. Also the part about a $1500 auto-switch behind the meter being practical and "the right way".

C'mon Bill. You know I'm not easily confused.
I knew you would argue, you cannot help it, it is just your nature.
 

I explained that already, in anticipation of your questions. PLEASE try to pay attention.

My meter box goes straight through the wall into my breaker box. There is no room whatsoever for playing games with other switches. As I also explained, that would take removal of the breaker box and a total rewire.
 
I think you are being confused when I said manual switch. Also the part about a $1500 behind the switch being practical and "the right way".

C'mon Bill. You know I'm not easily confused.
WTF

I never said you were confused. Please read again. I said mudstopper was confused. I was actually agreeing with you.WOW
 
They make an interlock device for most modern panels that is simple and cheap to install, it doesn't allow you to turn on the gen breaker unless the main is off, completely up to code and pretty easy to install. Combine that with the correct plug for your gen and pretty much any small gen is up to code. It is manual so you have to go outside to do the shutdown at night and restart in the morning, which is when I check the oil and refuel anyway.
Yup, I think mine cost about $60 and it meets code. I should upgrade to a 50 amp breaker, but we get by with it.

20230916_174831.jpg
 
I explained that already, in anticipation of your questions. PLEASE try to pay attention.

My meter box goes straight through the wall into my breaker box. There is no room whatsoever for playing games with other switches. As I also explained, that would take removal of the breaker box and a total rewire.
That was not my question. Please check the part of your statement I bolded in my post.
 
WTF

I never said you were confused. Please read again. I said mudstopper was confused. I was actually agreeing with you.WOW

Ok. I was certainly confused as to why you would have been including me with that comment. I'm not so sure how my comments agree with your comment when applied to mudstopper's really cool auto-switch.

You may recall he bought it from his utility company, and they will be installing it. I have great confidence it will meet code.
 
That was not my question. Please check the part of your statement I bolded in my post.

Logically, simply bolding a quoted area only suggests that is the focus of your question. It's a bit more accurate to just quote the lines you are taking exception to, and not print the extraneous information.
 
Doug,

C,mon you are using terms that are not part of redneck country vocabulary. I did not say anything about practical, safe, convenient or easy. :) Sometimes we do things that highly impractical, totally inconvenient, aaaa slightly unsafe, actually not all that easy, but by gosh we get the job done, we have fun, and we have a good story to tell.(hopefully)



Well having access to Farm/Construction equipment DOES make a difference 🙄😉


Doug 😎
 
Ok. I was certainly confused as to why you would have been including me with that comment. I'm not so sure how my comments agree with your comment when applied to mudstopper's really cool auto-switch.

You may recall he bought it from his utility company, and they will be installing it. I have great confidence it will meet code.
It is simple he quoted you and what you said. When he did so he was confused at the the difference between a meter and main panel. I simply pointed out what he said and what you said.

You know sometimes it is best to slow down a bit, read what folks say and not try to turn it into an argument. That stops a lot of confusion........
 
There's a YouTube guy I like to watch that is all about generators, his name is James Condon and from watching his channel, I've learned enough about the electrical end of most common generators to trouble shoot and maintain what used to be a complete mystery to me. They're really quite simple, and easy to fix in most cases. Looking on FB marketplace you can pickup some low cost low hr units that don't make power anymore. It's not unusual to find a good used gen for under $100 that need very little to bring them back to a dependable unit. The China -honda clones have flooded the market for 20 yrs or so and companies like Generac are of this design. Honeywell, GE, Coleman, Predator are all now made in China, using copper plated aluminum wire instead of copper which doesn't hold up to vibration as well as copper. My diesel gen is a Yanmar clone made by ETQ, it has over 10,000 hrs on the meter and still works! Picked it up 15 yrs ago for $300, and just last yr got its sister given to me with a few issues that were easily and cheaply resolved, and the bonus is, it only shows 1,000 hrs on it. Having a backup unit means a lot! I don't have uch experience with Onan gens like you find in most otorhomes, but their low rpm ( 1800htz vs 3600htz) seems like they run quieter and would not shake themselves apart like their higher rpm counterparts. The downside to them is cost and power output, most are not setup to produce the power needed , 240 volts, to run a typical home.
Just a minor correction, grizz. The engine runs at 1800 or 3600 rpm to produce 60hertz. 1500 and 3000 for 50 hertz for the UK.
 
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