baileys low profile ripping chain

[bookerdog]

I also tried some baileys low pro out. It only has a 1/4 kelf . I had no problems with it on a 20 inch bar. It is also faster.

 

[thompson1600]

Did it work on a regular 3/8 .050 bar? Did the regular 3/8 sprocket work with this chain?

Thanks

tom

 

[bookerdog]

Did it work on a regular 3/8 .050 bar? Did the regular 3/8 sprocket work with this chain?

Thanks

tom

Yes you can use a 3/8 .050 3/8 sprocket worked

 

[aquan8tor]

I know you're not "supposed" to, but has anyone used this on a longer bar, say 32"?? Is there a danger of chain throws. My bar is a 3/8 .050; but Bailey's suggests the use of the low pro chain on smaller bars only. Why? I understand it that this is actually .365 pitch chain, and just works b/c it is only .010 different. Anyone got any experience????

 

[aquan8tor]

anybody?................





Bueller?










Bueller?

 

[bookerdog]

just 20

anybody?................





Bueller?










Bueller?

I've just tried 20 inch has worked real well. Going to try 24inch next week. I have heard people say 24 is max. Get a loop and try it then tell me if it works or not:biggrinbounce2:

 

[Mike Barcaskey]

the longer the bar, the more horsepower and stress on the chain.
the 1/4 kerf chain will break more

 

[aquan8tor]

I didnt think about it that way. I suppose I'm going to try it (carefully) and get a backup 24" bar and mend the chain if it breaks. Just trying to waste as little as possible. I'm going to saw up a bunch of cherry & walnut in the next month or two. (gotta finish my shed first). Appreciate the insight.

 

[bookerdog]

chian

I didnt think about it that way. I suppose I'm going to try it (carefully) and get a backup 24" bar and mend the chain if it breaks. Just trying to waste as little as possible. I'm going to saw up a bunch of cherry & walnut in the next month or two. (gotta finish my shed first). Appreciate the insight.

Good luck on your shed. I did a test run with a new baileys low pro and a new baileys 3/8 I was suprised how much faster the low pro was. This was running in a 16 inch maple. I still want to see how it stands up but, Im pretty impressed with it. At least in the smaller lenghts.

 

[aquan8tor]

what are you running the lowpro chain with?? I'm personally using a 394XP that I've modded the muffler on; I was going to polish the exhaust but its already quite smooth. Porting will come later when I feel like I wont FS*&TUP. I'm just worried that the 7.1+HP might be too much. A couple logs I know have buried barbed wire. I'm almost positive I can miss it by judging where it is, but am I risking a break with the skinny chain?

I'm asking b/c you've got 3120 listed in your signature. Thanks.

 

[bookerdog]

372

what are you running the lowpro chain with?? I'm personally using a 394XP that I've modded the muffler on; I was going to polish the exhaust but its already quite smooth. Porting will come later when I feel like I wont FS*&TUP. I'm just worried that the 7.1+HP might be too much. A couple logs I know have buried barbed wire. I'm almost positive I can miss it by judging where it is, but am I risking a break with the skinny chain?

I'm asking b/c you've got 3120 listed in your signature. Thanks.

Im using that chain on a 372 right now. I will be changing sprockets on my 3120 and giving it a try. My 372 is ported and muff moded. It is a screamer. I love the 372. I hit a bolt with the skinny chain chewed the bolt up pretty good and took a nice chunk in the chain. It didn't break though. Im suprized at the diff. in speed between the 3/8 and the low pro it is very noticeable.

 

[Mike Barcaskey]

we run a low profile, thin kerf chain on the Logosol with a 660 Mag.
haven't broke a chain yet, but thats controlled milling, not cross cutting and digging the dogs in

 

[aquan8tor]

you like the logosol?? I saw one for sale recently. I'm telling myself I need to hold out for a band mill, but just curious what a reg. user has to say about one. Didnt mean to take over the thread. Glad to hear the chain works well with both your powerful saws. I'll be placing an order to Baileys soon.

 

[woodshop]

Im suprized at the diff. in speed between the 3/8 and the low pro it is very noticeable.

If my 36 inch bars for my 395 milling saw were .050 and not .063, I would buy or make a length of LP and try myself. The thickness of the kerf doesn't seem to be much different, but if you say it goes easier, I'd like to test that out myself. However, since they don't make LP in .063, it's academic I guess. I do have a 32 inch .050 bar for my MS460 mag... I guess I could make one up for that, but then the 460 Stihl isn't as powerful as my 395 Husky so it would be hard to tell. Might just make them both even?

 

[TedChristiansen]

I concur with Bookerdog. The low profile chain is quite a bit faster on a bar of the same length compared to standard. I have only used the chain from Logosol (Stihl 63PMX), but it is equivalent to the Baileys chain.

Logosol doesnt sell the 63PMX in sizes over 24", most likely because of durability reasons. If you maintained the chain well it might be possible to use it on longer bars without issues.

I am also a Logosol owner. I have both the TimberJig and Woodworkers Mill and run Husqvarna 385XP on both. The Woodworkers Mill (or M7) are a joy to use. The biggest benefits are:

1. Stand upright while cutting
2. Crank the saw through the wood - no pushing
3. The cut thickness is controlled by the beds, not by the log surface.

The third one is why the quality of the cut is so good. Errors from the cuts are not magnified as each cut is made.

Regards,

Ted

 

[bookerdog]

low pro

I was very suprised at the diff. in speed. I was thinking it wouldn't be to much but it was. The saw seemed to glide better through the wood also. If the chain holds up well I will use this from now on. I milled about 500 board ft today and was using the low pro with 1/4 kelf. I got pretty tried of touching them up so I just put a 3/8 baileys ripping chain on. After the first cut with the 3/8 chain on I couldn't figure out why my board was narrower. Stuipid me forgot to adjust for the extra kelf cut.:bang:

 

[aquan8tor]

sounds like something I'd do. Say, you're using your husky to mill with; does it have the PITA front located chain tensioner? Any ideas on making this easier?? I was thinking about taking a big landscaping spike or something--1/4" or better dia., and heating it up with an oxy/mapp torch--the cheap bernzomatic one from lowe's, and bending it, then using a grinder to make a 90deg. screwdriver.
I havent milled but a few hundred BF yet, but seems like whenever I get into a rythm and get my cuts really smooth, the chain needs to be tensioned, and I have to dismantle the bar clamps on the mill, which means on the alaskan undoing the depth clamps too, b/c a bar wrench wont fit under the guide to loosen the bar clamp. Whole mess. My socket wrench doesnt fit either. Looks like an excuse to buy a set of offset ratcheting box-end wrenches, or whatever they call them. Saw them on sale for like $50. Tools. tools.

 

[dustytools]

sounds like something I'd do. Say, you're using your husky to mill with; does it have the PITA front located chain tensioner? Any ideas on making this easier?? I was thinking about taking a big landscaping spike or something--1/4" or better dia., and heating it up with an oxy/mapp torch--the cheap bernzomatic one from lowe's, and bending it, then using a grinder to make a 90deg. screwdriver.
I havent milled but a few hundred BF yet, but seems like whenever I get into a rythm and get my cuts really smooth, the chain needs to be tensioned, and I have to dismantle the bar clamps on the mill, which means on the alaskan undoing the depth clamps too, b/c a bar wrench wont fit under the guide to loosen the bar clamp. Whole mess. My socket wrench doesnt fit either. Looks like an excuse to buy a set of offset ratcheting box-end wrenches, or whatever they call them. Saw them on sale for like $50. Tools. tools.

This is one advantage of running a double ended bar, the chain can be adjusted at the handle end of the bar very quickly. Sure beats removing everything to get to the adjuster on the saw.

 

[aquan8tor]

I'm a little short on cash for that one. The bar would be over $200, and the helper handle $100 by themselves, plus yet another chain. I've got a 42" solid nose on the way that I'm going to eventually mod to accept a roller-sprocket helper handle. We'll see how that one goes. I need it to fell a tree sometime this winter, anyway, so it wont be a complete loss even if I mess it up. I'll give an update whenever I get around to it.

 

[bookerdog]

tensioner

sounds like something I'd do. Say, you're using your husky to mill with; does it have the PITA front located chain tensioner? Any ideas on making this easier?? I was thinking about taking a big landscaping spike or something--1/4" or better dia., and heating it up with an oxy/mapp torch--the cheap bernzomatic one from lowe's, and bending it, then using a grinder to make a 90deg. screwdriver.
I havent milled but a few hundred BF yet, but seems like whenever I get into a rythm and get my cuts really smooth, the chain needs to be tensioned, and I have to dismantle the bar clamps on the mill, which means on the alaskan undoing the depth clamps too, b/c a bar wrench wont fit under the guide to loosen the bar clamp. Whole mess. My socket wrench doesnt fit either. Looks like an excuse to buy a set of offset ratcheting box-end wrenches, or whatever they call them. Saw them on sale for like $50. Tools. tools.

My 372 has a side tension. Now the 3120 does not I did something like your taking about with a oversized screwdriver. It works:jester: