twoodward15
ArboristSite Operative
How about just drilling a hole through the bar and using a standard screw driver? That's what I am doing tomorrow.
baileys low profile ripping chain
- Thread starter bookerdog
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bookerdog
The New Champ
speed
That would be interesting if the low pro would make the 460 as fast as the 395 with regular 3/8th. I guess to really test the theory thought you would need to have a 36 inch bar on the stihl also.woodshop said:
twoodward15
ArboristSite Operative
any idea on how it would do on an under powered mill? 55cc w/ a 20 inch bar, cutting 12 inch wood? I need to step up to real ripping chain and don't know wether I should go with the low pro or the standard. Does it really make a noticeable difference in milling speed?
bookerdog
The New Champ
yes
yes it does make a noticeable difference. I wood also think with what you are milling and the power of saw you have. I would go with a 16inch bar and some of bailey's low protwoodward15 said:
woodshop
Addicted to ArboristSite
Even easier to really see how much difference... I could use my 28 inch bar (.050) on my 365. I could make up a loop of both the standard 3/8 rip and the LP, and stick that in my csm and see the diff on same log, same width.bookerdog said:
bookerdog
The New Champ
365
365 great saw. I think I use that saw more then the others. Don't really know why but its my favorite. I know on my 372 it made a diff. Would be interesting for someone to bit the bullet and put a 36inch on.woodshop said:
aquan8tor
ArboristSite Guru
I'm about to order a 32" loop. It is the 30LR .365x.050, right?? thanks.
bookerdog
The New Champ
right
great deal can't wait for a report on it. Thanks for biting the bullet.:deadhorse:aquan8tor said:
bookerdog
The New Champ
Ordered
Well went ahead and ordered 8 loops of baileys low pro today. 4 20inch 2 24 and 2 28. I will use these this weekend and get back to everyone. I should just buy a breaker and spinner and start making my own. Hey woodshop how is that working out for you. the breaker and spinner that is
Well went ahead and ordered 8 loops of baileys low pro today. 4 20inch 2 24 and 2 28. I will use these this weekend and get back to everyone. I should just buy a breaker and spinner and start making my own. Hey woodshop how is that working out for you. the breaker and spinner that is
aquan8tor
ArboristSite Guru
I just ordered 2. I almost bought a reel, but I thought I'd better try it out first. I'll get a reel once I'm sold on it. Its got to stand up to the (very)occasional piece of fence wire--some of the trees I'm planning on milling this winter are/were along old fencelines, and most certainly have wire embedded. Hopefully the chaps will suffice if it breaks. 
bookerdog
The New Champ
chaps
yes those chaps come in handy.aquan8tor said:I just ordered 2. I almost bought a reel, but I thought I'd better try it out first. I'll get a reel once I'm sold on it. Its got to stand up to the (very)occasional piece of fence wire--some of the trees I'm planning on milling this winter are/were along old fencelines, and most certainly have wire embedded. Hopefully the chaps will suffice if it breaks.
aquan8tor
ArboristSite Guru
I just got the package. Talk about fast shipping!@!! The package came from TN; I guess they have a store there or a depot or something. I hope to use it if its sunny on Sunday afternoon. Pretty crappy out right now, and Ive got to work nights tonight, and me lady is going to be in town tomorrow. I'll give an update, and pics. (of the milling).
bookerdog
The New Champ
weekend
My wife thought she had plans for me this weekend. Then her mom called her to go shopping
So it looks like a full weekend of milling for me:biggrinbounce2:
My wife thought she had plans for me this weekend. Then her mom called her to go shopping
So it looks like a full weekend of milling for me:biggrinbounce2:
woodshop
Addicted to ArboristSite
Actually I thought there would be a little more of a learning curve with them, but after only one try I was knocking out loops off of the 100 ft reel of Baileys ripping chain I bought. Nothing to it. Takes longer to count out/measure the number of links than to make the loop in the spinner.bookerdog said:
bookerdog
The New Champ
Thanks
Thats what I needed to hear thanks for the info.woodshop said:
Crofter
Addicted to ArboristSite
Lo Pro Chain
I spent a bit of time trying to nail down the differences in it and regular 3/8 chain and here are a few things I found
1. The pitch is not different. If you measure it is about .367 for both the lo pro and the regular 3/8 or so called .375 chain. The numbers are all an aproximation.
2. The rivets and bearing area in the drive tangs are smaller and you will most likely see more chain lengthening with use, than regular 3/8 chain.
3. The drive tang that engages the drive sprocket is shorter on the low pro and the angle of the flanks where it meets the sprocket are not identical but there seems to be no big problem using low pro on a sprocket designed for regular but there is most likely clearance problems if you try to use a regular 3/8 on a sprocket designed for low pro and the bigger cutters may try to eat the saw and clutch cover. It exchanges one way but not the other.
4. Sprocket nose. Here is where I see a potential problem. I am using it on my saw and watching for wear. If you notice how the drive tangs of regular 3/8 chain engage the prongs of the sprocket nose you will see that the flanks of the drive tangs are supported by the sides of the notches in the nose wheel. Using a low pro chain with the smaller profile drive tang, the contact area changes to the tip of the sprocke nose tooth jambed between the drive tangs up close to the rivet line. It seems to be working on a much smaller bearing area with more of a wedging effect and the lower flanks of the drive tangs are taking no load. It may wear in and start to seat where it should but at least with a new low pro chain it is riding up on the tips of the sprocket nose teeth.
I have not used it for milling but like it for cutting brush as you get slapped in the face less. Have not used it a lot of hours and only on an 026. I think some of the chainsaw carving forums have info on different noses especially for the low pro chain but have seen nothing on regular replaceable sprocket nose tips. I have never had a broken chain wrap around me but the thought would make me nervous to run that on a big saw.
I spent a bit of time trying to nail down the differences in it and regular 3/8 chain and here are a few things I found
1. The pitch is not different. If you measure it is about .367 for both the lo pro and the regular 3/8 or so called .375 chain. The numbers are all an aproximation.
2. The rivets and bearing area in the drive tangs are smaller and you will most likely see more chain lengthening with use, than regular 3/8 chain.
3. The drive tang that engages the drive sprocket is shorter on the low pro and the angle of the flanks where it meets the sprocket are not identical but there seems to be no big problem using low pro on a sprocket designed for regular but there is most likely clearance problems if you try to use a regular 3/8 on a sprocket designed for low pro and the bigger cutters may try to eat the saw and clutch cover. It exchanges one way but not the other.
4. Sprocket nose. Here is where I see a potential problem. I am using it on my saw and watching for wear. If you notice how the drive tangs of regular 3/8 chain engage the prongs of the sprocket nose you will see that the flanks of the drive tangs are supported by the sides of the notches in the nose wheel. Using a low pro chain with the smaller profile drive tang, the contact area changes to the tip of the sprocke nose tooth jambed between the drive tangs up close to the rivet line. It seems to be working on a much smaller bearing area with more of a wedging effect and the lower flanks of the drive tangs are taking no load. It may wear in and start to seat where it should but at least with a new low pro chain it is riding up on the tips of the sprocket nose teeth.
I have not used it for milling but like it for cutting brush as you get slapped in the face less. Have not used it a lot of hours and only on an 026. I think some of the chainsaw carving forums have info on different noses especially for the low pro chain but have seen nothing on regular replaceable sprocket nose tips. I have never had a broken chain wrap around me but the thought would make me nervous to run that on a big saw.
bookerdog
The New Champ
crofter
Thanks for the infomation. Would it make since to have a bar and sprocket for the low pro and a bar and sprocket for regular 3/8. Would the wear make a diff.Crofter said:
Crofter
Addicted to ArboristSite
Problem is that I dont know where you can get a bar of much length designed for the low pro chain. It does seem to run OK and I have watched a 371 Johnny doing a demo with it on their jober saw. If anyone has some low pro chain and a regular sprocket nose bar, have a look at how the two chains mate with the star wheel on the nose. I think that is of more concern than the drive sprocket end where the chain bears on the side links if the drive tangs dont fill the sprocket notches I tried to get some info from Oregon and Carleton on the specifics of why it would / would not interchange and got no reply from their technical departments. Might be liability issues if something did happen. Lots of fellows run it but I think I have seen that wear is an issue. No question that it does cut faster on a small saw and take a narrower bite.
bookerdog
The New Champ
milling
crofter thanks for the information. I have just started using it for milling and was suprised at how much faster it cut. I have only used it on a 20inch bar for right now but will be trying it on a 28inch bar.Crofter said:
stonykill
ArboristSite Guru
I CALLED BAILEYS ABOUT THIS, BEFORE I ORDERED. THE SALESMAN TOLD ME STRENGTH WAS NOT THE ISSUE. THEY RECOMEND IT FOR A BAR NO LONGER THAN 24 INCHES BECAUSE AS A BAR GETS LONGER IT GETS THICKER. AT 24 INCHES A BAR AND THE LOW PRO CHAIN ARE ABOUT THE SAME SIZE, AND ON A LONGER BAR THE BAR COULD BE THICKER THAN THE CHAINMike Barcaskey said:
