baileys low profile ripping chain

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This is one of the things I don't understand (of many) The numbers
are from Stihl's web site. it shows that the 3/8 & 3/8 PICCO have the
same amount of drivers (1640) for a 100' reel of chain. It also calls the
3/8 PICCO, (3/8" Extended) What dose the Extended mean? My simple
mind thinks that it would be MORE than .375, not less than as .365
would be.



Pitch
1 = 1/4"
2 = .325"
3 = 3/8"
4 = .404"
6 = STIHL PICCO™
(3/8" Extended)


Number of Drive
Links in Reels
Type 100'
1/4" 2400
3/8" PMN 1640
3/8" P 1640
.325" 1840
3/8" 1640
.404" 1480

I'm not trying to start anything, just trying to get my facts straight
before I make a purchase


Thanks, Gary
 
I maybe talking apples and oranges here, Maybe Bailey's low pro
is .365 pitch, and Logosol 63pmx and Stihl's 3/8 PICCO are .375
If it is that would clear some things up, for me anyway.:)

Gary
 
I think the numbers are just a reference point, really---I don't have a micrometer, so I can't check them. I thought they were standardized though, b/c chainsaw bars list the number of drive links required of each type--wouldn't they be around the same?? Don't worry, I'm not starting anything either, I've never done the measurements either. Perhaps someone else has a micrometer caliper or something.
 
gumneck said:
Anyone else seem to be replacing their ubolts and sleeve nuts on their Alaskan mills? I dont overwrench mine down but they don't seem to last very long. I've been getting replacements from the local bolt/screw shop.
Click to expand...
Yes... I had to replace two in the past until I found a solution. They both developed crossed threads on the u-bolt, and on the one, the threads inside that deep threaded nut were also crossed. I fixed them up temporarily with a tap and die. Then I found stainless steel ubolts at HD the right size. Few bucks more, but still relatively cheap. I put Permatex anti-seize compound on the threaded parts (it's basically grease mixed with powdered aluminum), and also put a thicker washer under each nut, and since then have had no problems. Smooth as glass tighten and untighten ever since I did that. No I don't crank down exceptionally hard either.
 
CaseyForrest said:
Interesting, lets find out.
Click to expand...

Casey, Looked in the 066 parts manual, it list part #1122 640 2002
for 3/8T sprocket, part #1122 640 2006 for 3/8 PICCO 7T sprocket
So I would say they must be different, (I guess):dizzy:


Gary
 
.365, 370 low pro, 3/8 extended pitch, 3/8 regular .375 regular!

Measure them up and I think you will find they are all the same spacing centre to centre on the rivets and that figure will be close to .367 of an inch even on the so called .375 and 3/8 chain. The figures used to describe them are nominal, not exact. There is a difference in the size and shape of the drive tang projection beneath the chain tie straps. There is also slightly less thickness from centre of rivet to bottom of chain tie strap. The low pro drive tangs fit reasonably well in a regular drive sprocket but not so well on the fingers of the star wheel that is the sprocket of the bar nose. They work on full size setups but there are some compatibility issues. If anyone can get definitive info on intermixing them from any of the chain manufactures tech. people, you are doing better than I did. I am presently running some Carlton Low Pro on a standard 3/8 setup on a 260. No doubt you might get better life from dedicated Picco components but they seem hard to come by for larger saws and bar lengths.
 
Just to add 2 cents. (or brag) I have side chain adjusters but never had to adjust my chain while milling with the alaskan. Don't know why but there you go.

Haven't had any problems with the u bolts on the 36" alaskan either. It's an old
one compared to my small log mill. And I have had problems with the u bolts on that puppy. I have noticed that the aluminum on the newer small log mill is not the quality of the older alaskan. My brother also has a newer alaskan and it is the lesser quality aluminum, bummer. "Don't make them like they used to."
 
Sprockets

the one on the left is 3/8 inch for 350 or N1 chain
the one in center is 3/8 picca for 91 chain
the one on the right is 3/8 inch for 72. 73 and 75 chain
as you can see the shape of the teeth are different
hope this may help you all figure out the difference
 
camojeep said:
never read all your post no it wasnt dangerous chain stopped immediatly and saw reved up p.s my speling not very good
Click to expand...

Yes Camojeep, Don't worry about spelling.
I don't know if you know but when you are writing
a post, below it there is a spell check button. I
use it all the time, some times (ALLOT) I don't
even get close enough to the word that spell check
knows what word I'M trying to spell!
And as you can tell it don't do CRAP for my grammar

Gary
 
So I finally got around to using the 32" loop of 3/8 lo-profile ripping chain I got from Bailey's. Man does it cut fast!!!!!!! I only cut up a couple of 10"x60 logs of spalted maple (some of which is too soft to use, unfortunately, but beautiful). I'll post pics tomorrow; I can't upload at work. Maybe someone can help me out with this. I thought I was tightening the chain enough, but I'm getting a really bumpy cut. I'm using my aluminum guide planks from the ripsaw, which are perfectly smooth, but I'm still getting a lot of wobble in the cut. It feels like the saw is making the chain ride high in the groove, like it wants to fling outwards, no matter how tight I seem to get it. And, it of course the chain needs to be tensioned at the end of the cut. I think there's more stretch (obviously) than with a smaller chain. The speed though is amazing.

I've still yet to use my ripsaw more than one time; every time I try to bring my logs back from the cabin, the river is up way too high to get the pickup across, with or without a trailer. That's another story. Anybody got some advice on the chain/cut issue?? I'll post some pics tomorrow.
 
View attachment 44229
View attachment 44230



I ended up with just 4 planks one live edge, 10/4 but man, what figure and color. Hopefully everything is solid enough to use. I meant to take some closeups but you get the idea. I'm saving the squaring-cutoffs to see if I can saw off some veneer from the burls with the shop bandsaw and a sliding jig I read about, and will try to replicate ghetto style. Any easy way to get the bark off?? I have a powerwasher....
1

Main thing is this: You can see in the pics how rough the surface of the wood is. I got incredibly smooth surfaces with my locust milling, even though I had to stop after EVERY FRIGIN BOARD and sharpen!!! 12" x 9' of locust wouldn't seem to do much, but apparently, it dulls the hell outta the chains. Smooth surface though. I thought I had pretty good tension here, but again, this is my first time with the lowpro ripping chain. Could be a 32" sprocketnose oregon bar is a little long for it?? Thoughts and experience, please. The speed of this chain is too addictive for me to give up after just two puny little logs.




View attachment 44231
View attachment 44232


These pics are of why I haven't used my ripsaw yet.......I have to get through all this, with a trailer, back into the woods, then go over a hell of a jeeptrail to the spot where all this is:

View attachment 44233



the stump in the picture is 24" for reference. Black cherry.
 
Sure coulda used that Lewis Winch in that last couple of pics huh?
BTW those boards are very nice. I have used some of baileys chain on a 48" mill and it seemed from your closer pics to be same roughness that my slabs turned out. The speed was impressive as well. I have experimented with angles quite a bit since I got my grinder. If that's too rough then you could always change the angle of the cutter. The closer to 0 degrees top plate angle, the smoother the cut, but this will also slow down the speed of your cut a bit. JMTC. Anyway what cha gonna make out of that spalted maple?
 
Don't know yet. I was hoping to do a nice table top of some kind, but I'm a little worried that not all of it will be usable. Its got a couple soft spots in the middle of one of the most highly figured parts. I Think that part will end up as a jewelry box for my girlfriend, minus the soft spots of course. The other, well, I'd really like a nice corner table , with legs of clear maple. Who knows. I might come up with something else first.
Just so I'm clear, you used the lopro baileys on a 48" mill?? I've used both, but this one was with the lowprofile 3/8" stuff.
 
oh yeah. The lewis winch is "in the mail" Famous last words. Had to do an ebay dispute b/c the buyer tacked on extra shipping at the end. I ended up eating the shipping b/c I just couldn't stand the waiting part. They haven't entered the electronic money age, and insisted on a money order, which took two weeks to get there, global priority express (supposedly guaranteed in 2-3 days). Long story. It'll be here soon, and I'll be using it for those very same logs, and some more, hopefully.
 

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