baileys low profile ripping chain

[Fudomyo]

I notice with my PMX picco chain that it doesn't fit in my longer bar's nose sprokets. Those nose sprokets look like they are 63 gage and the chain is so narrow it wont sit down. Maybe you are having the same issue with the LP??

 

[aquan8tor]

No, it fits in the sprocket nose okay. It's .050ga, BTW, not that it matters.
When I rev the saw with the bar out of the cut, the chain actually jumps up in the middle of the bar by over half an inch, even when tensioned. Has anyone else tried using the lowpro on such a small bar??

edit: hey lumberjackchef; I'm sure you've been asked before, but what is the tree in your avatar? At first I thought black walnut, but ???

 

[scottr]

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I ended up with just 4 planks one live edge, 10/4 but man, what figure and color. Hopefully everything is solid enough to use. I meant to take some closeups but you get the idea. I'm saving the squaring-cutoffs to see if I can saw off some veneer from the burls with the shop bandsaw and a sliding jig I read about, and will try to replicate ghetto style. Any easy way to get the bark off?? I have a powerwasher....
1

Main thing is this: You can see in the pics how rough the surface of the wood is. I got incredibly smooth surfaces with my locust milling, even though I had to stop after EVERY FRIGIN BOARD and sharpen!!! 12" x 9' of locust wouldn't seem to do much, but apparently, it dulls the hell outta the chains. Smooth surface though. I thought I had pretty good tension here, but again, this is my first time with the lowpro ripping chain. Could be a 32" sprocketnose oregon bar is a little long for it?? Thoughts and experience, please. The speed of this chain is too addictive for me to give up after just two puny little logs.




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These pics are of why I haven't used my ripsaw yet.......I have to get through all this, with a trailer, back into the woods, then go over a hell of a jeeptrail to the spot where all this is:

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the stump in the picture is 24" for reference. Black cherry.

N8 , your Ripsaw could be used to cut 1/8" veneer or thicker .

 

[00juice]

Would you all consider it safe to run the lowpro chain on an 084 with a 25" bar, or maybe even a 20" bar
Thanks

 

[59Billy]

I've been running granberg ripping chain on a Stihl 290 with a 20" bar (.325x .063).

I'm thinking about buying a 16", .05 gauge bar and putting Bailey's LP chain on it. I'm thinking it'll make it easier on the saw. Feel free to point out the flaws in my thinking.

 

[aquan8tor]

N8 , your Ripsaw could be used to cut 1/8" veneer or thicker .

I'd love to use it for veneer, but I don't have a carriage for it. The slices i cut off for squaring the log up are too small to allow the saw to slide over it. I've got a 14" rigid bandsaw that I've been looking for a riser block for (found the rigid part # recently). and know someone with a jig I can copy. IT's just easier that way. Otherwise, I'm all over the ripsaw. I've got a box of a dozen blades just burning a hole in my pocket so to speak for when I get my logs home. opcorn: :jester:


I'm still at odds with whether or not the lowpro chain is for me or not. Cutting speed is great, but if it means I'm going to lose as much wood from extra planing as I would have lost by using the wider kerf normal 3/8 chain, then it just doesn't make sense.

It certainly doesn't bog down the motor (I know I'm cutting narrow wood, but still; I could push almost as hard as I wanted with no decrease in engine speed).

 

[aquan8tor]

I notice with my PMX picco chain that it doesn't fit in my longer bar's nose sprokets. Those nose sprokets look like they are 63 gage and the chain is so narrow it wont sit down. Maybe you are having the same issue with the LP??

Is the PMX picco chain .050 or .058?? I'm rethinking my fast answer. It seemed to go down into the sprocket okay, but if the sprocket is wider than the rest of the bar, that might explain some wobble.

 

[scottr]

I'd love to use it for veneer, but I don't have a carriage for it. The slices i cut off for squaring the log up are too small to allow the saw to slide over it. I've got a 14" rigid bandsaw that I've been looking for a riser block for (found the rigid part # recently). and know someone with a jig I can copy. IT's just easier that way. Otherwise, I'm all over the ripsaw. I've got a box of a dozen blades just burning a hole in my pocket so to speak for when I get my logs home. opcorn: :jester:


I'm still at odds with whether or not the lowpro chain is for me or not. Cutting speed is great, but if it means I'm going to lose as much wood from extra planing as I would have lost by using the wider kerf normal 3/8 chain, then it just doesn't make sense.

It certainly doesn't bog down the motor (I know I'm cutting narrow wood, but still; I could push almost as hard as I wanted with no decrease in engine speed).

N8 , what width boards are you trying to resaw ?

 

[aquan8tor]

about 8-10". I'm likely going to replace the motor on it with a 2HP unit. The 3/4 that it came with is probably not going to do it. I haven't resawn anything on it before, so this is all new. I've read a bunch, and a good friend is a master cabinetmaker, so I've got a good learning curve.

 

[Railomatic]

New ripping chains

This is what I have been doing for quite some time, I have been using these kinds of chains for for some years now, cannon bars have interchangable tips and sprockets, I have mentioned it a few times before.

On my 088 and 880 I use a 325 conversion with a 9 toothed sprocket, and on the 660 I use 1/4" as does Logosol today.

Its not a new concept really, it has all been done before and now comes around again as a new product, but it definately works better for the CSM's.

Happy milling.

 

[scottr]

about 8-10". I'm likely going to replace the motor on it with a 2HP unit. The 3/4 that it came with is probably not going to do it. I haven't resawn anything on it before, so this is all new. I've read a bunch, and a good friend is a master cabinetmaker, so I've got a good learning curve.

N8 , that is plenty wide to resaw on the ripsaw . The aluminum guide beam is only 6" wide and you balance the ripsaw on it . All you need is table or saw horses to work on . Unless you are determined to buy another motor and a resaw block for the rigid bandsaw .

 

[aquan8tor]

The thing is the pieces I need to resaw are only about 24-36" long. I'm confused how to resaw something that size safely.

 

[scottr]

The thing is the pieces I need to resaw are only about 24-36" long. I'm confused how to resaw something that size safely.

N8 , if you have a scrap 2X then you could C clamp it to a table then use a nail or block of wood to hold the resaw board in place .

 

[Fudomyo]

Is the PMX picco chain .050 or .058?? I'm rethinking my fast answer. It seemed to go down into the sprocket okay, but if the sprocket is wider than the rest of the bar, that might explain some wobble.

It's .050. They make PMN (Narrow) too and it's .043.

 

[1953greg]

Lumberjackchef

Sure coulda used that Lewis Winch in that last couple of pics huh?
BTW those boards are very nice. I have used some of baileys chain on a 48" mill and it seemed from your closer pics to be same roughness that my slabs turned out. The speed was impressive as well. I have experimented with angles quite a bit since I got my grinder. If that's too rough then you could always change the angle of the cutter. The closer to 0 degrees top plate angle, the smoother the cut, but this will also slow down the speed of your cut a bit. JMTC. Anyway what cha gonna make out of that spalted maple?

where did u find a 48" 3/8 .050ga bar??? everything i find over 36" is .063ga.

 

[aquan8tor]

N8 , if you have a scrap 2X then you could C clamp it to a table then use a nail or block of wood to hold the resaw board in place .

I'm trying to visualize this; sometimes I'm a little challenged, but I gotta see it to understand it. How would you keep the metal guide plank up off the surface---my scraps are round on one side. Also, would you just re-adjust the cut height at each pass? Seems like a really good, inventive idea, BTW.

 

[flht01]

I'm trying to visualize this....

Here's a few of the classic ripsaw threads just in case you haven't had a chance to read them.

This first one shows a really nice stand you can build to use either a csm or ripsaw on for smaller logs or resawing cants. If you decide to build one, woodshop sent me a drawing and enough pictures to build it by. Just let me know and I'll create a zip file to send you.
Milling lumber woodshop style


This thread shows enough detail on sawhorses for csm or ripsaw use, very handy.

small milling horses


And last, woodshop's method of handling big logs when you don't have the luxury of big equipment.
getting 1000lb cant up on horses


There are more, but these threadswill give you a good idea on some of the better methods of handling small and big wood with a csm type mill.

Once you see the resaw stand woodshop built for smaller wood it'll make it a lot easier to picture what scottr is talking about.

 

[scottr]

Slabs

I'm trying to visualize this; sometimes I'm a little challenged, but I gotta see it to understand it. How would you keep the metal guide plank up off the surface---my scraps are round on one side. Also, would you just re-adjust the cut height at each pass? Seems like a really good, inventive idea, BTW.

N8 , what you are now talking about is to make some veneer from some slabs . Take a scrap 2X and place 4 nails in it 2 on each end to cradle the rounded side of your slab . Adjust the guide finger of the ripsaw up so it will be even with the dimension plate and run the ripsaw on the flat side of the slab . The guide beam is not necessary .

 

[iacornfed]

pico or low pro chain

I use baileys chain and stihls' chain on my 066. I use a rim sprocket from baileys. I mill on a logosol m7. I have used 16" bars and 20". I like the 20" better because i can sqaure up larger dia. logs. As for strength , I have hit lots of nails and wire which have never broken a chain. I have broken a few due to dull chain or worn bars on dried red oak.

 

[aquan8tor]

N8 , what you are now talking about is to make some veneer from some slabs . Take a scrap 2X and place 4 nails in it 2 on each end to cradle the rounded side of your slab . Adjust the guide finger of the ripsaw up so it will be even with the dimension plate and run the ripsaw on the flat side of the slab . The guide beam is not necessary .

I gotcha now. I had seen the pics on cant milling, but not small stuff. I'm not trying to go too thin; maybe 3/4" for 1/2 after planing. Thought about jewelry boxes or something like that.