Baileys NWP 039 P/C Kit Differences

[singletrack100]

Hi all, and Happy Thanksgiving! I tried getting this out earlier but the wireless here at work quit- Anyway, I picked up a Stihl 029 Super this past summer for limbing and small work, and after much reading here, dove in and MM'd and retuned it (yes, even taking the limiter caps off:msp_wink. Of course, that led to my doing the same to my 066Magnum, though I wasn't "wanting" anything more there to begin with!

So, tonight I'm looking at Baileys and the 49mm 039 P/C kits (wheels in head turning for fuuture). Two kits are listed, #SBN 390 ($149.99) and #SBNKU 390 ($99.95). They both list the same components; am I reading it correct that the higher priced one comes assembled and ready to "drop in" and the other is pieces? I tried searching previous posts to see if this came up anywhere but did not see it. As long as I am "contemplating" (daydreaming but secretly planning), I want to make sure of what I am looking at.

Thanks for your patience if this is a repeat from prior posts. Thanks also for any input from those in the know, and most of all, have a GREAT Thanksgiving and weekend and happy sawing!!!!

 

[H 2 H]

I did one and it's a strong running saw

I have a 25" 3/8" b/c and it doesn't have a problem pulling it up here in the PNW :msp_wink:

I got the completed one but soon as I got it I tore it apart and did some polishing and removing of some material on the cylinder

 

[singletrack100]

Thanks! That tells me the one does come assembled.... From what I gather, they do not come with the crank pan, right? What metal did you polish and remove? Were you working the ports, or were there soe other issues? I'm curious for when the time comes. I've never tore a saw down that far before, many an auto engine but not saws, but am willing to do it on this one as it's not my only saw now. Any other tips are appreciated. Thanks!

 

[medic8852]

If i remember correctly, and I'm sure Grandedog will come along to correct me if i am wrong, but the $149 one is sealed and tested, the $99 is assembled but just needs to be pressure tested....i'll try and find the post..

 

[blsnelling]

I know of at least three of these that will not pass a vac test, leaking around the seals. I recommend you buy only the P&C and use your crank and pan. Use OEM seals and put the engine together yourself.

 

[singletrack100]

Thanks Brad. That's certainly good info to know going into this. I didn't see a P/C only kit on Baileys; I went there from memory of hearing them mentioned here so many times. Ideas for P/C only kits (with rings of course)?

 

[1dragon]

I've installed this kit in mine as well. Yes the $149.99 kit is complete with crank pan and assembled. Just drop it in and reassemble. Yes it runs very well, I'm happy!!

 

[H 2 H]

Thanks! That tells me the one does come assembled.... From what I gather, they do not come with the crank pan, right? What metal did you polish and remove? Were you working the ports, or were there soe other issues? I'm curious for when the time comes. I've never tore a saw down that far before, many an auto engine but not saws, but am willing to do it on this one as it's not my only saw now. Any other tips are appreciated. Thanks!

Yes port work

Just take your time while doing it

 

[roostersgt]

I ordered a cylinder and piston from DRZ small engines last week on Ebay for less than $70 delivered. I've not used anything other than OEM before, so I really wasn't expecting much in the way of quality on this A/M cylinder. Boy was I wrong. I was surprised to find this cylinder to be damn near OEM quality. No burrs or rough castings and the chrome lining appears to be flawless, even near the ports. I can't wait to get it assembled and fired up. Dealer friend examined it and was more surprised than I at the overall quality. It really is comparable. I'd never have believed it could be, if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes and felt it.

The cylinder is truly flawless in every way measurable. The only difference between OEM and this knock-off is the OEM has a nikosil plating, whereas the Chi-Com unit has a chrome plated cylinder wall. I sure hope it doesn't flake off.

 

[Grande Dog]

Howdy,
The SBNKU's are actually fully assembled, and tested. What they don't have are the 4 additional screws that are installed in the engine pan at the factory.
The 4 additional screws hold the engine pan in place while the 4 main mounting bolts are removed for installation of the short block.
I've had more than a few people tell me that they installed the SBNKU's, and the sealant held fine by itself while the short block was installed.
We can't guarantee that this will happen with every SBNKU, and that's why there's a reduced price.

Brad,
We sold just under 300 of the short blocks so far, and you're the first one to mention about them not holding. Were these the SBN's, and did you have all three in your hands, or reports from other installers.
I'm really trying to hold the factories feet to the flames on this point because it's the crux of making this deal work. If anybody else who's reading this has, or gets a SBN 390 that doesn't hold, I would really like to know about it.

Regards
Gregg

 

[TALLGUY]

I just put an assembled short block in my saw. When i received the assembly the crank seals were proud of the surface. When I installed the oil pump it actualy pushed the seal into the block. The flywheel side lip is just touching the wide part of the crank. So far it tuned ok and doesn't over rev. It seems to be pulling ok in the cut an idle is good. I have't put a tank throught it yet. I would say if it is your first time under the covers of a saw get the assembly. If you know what you are doing save a few bucks and seal it your self. The diffrence in price is about a tube of Durko. My crank was spun on the old saw so ether way I needed a kit. i picked one up on sale last month . Gregg added the line in the discription to buy the decomp plug (unless you are replacing a 390/039 that has the valve) you will need it.