Bandsaw Homemade

[Rail-O-Matic]

Hi

Came across this home made bandsaw mill on the netty, belongs to a guy who lives up in Alaska, check out those trailer wheels and stub axles.

 

[woodshop]

Hi

Came across this home made bandsaw mill on the netty, belongs to a guy who lives up in Alaska, check out those trailer wheels and stub axles.

Now THAT looks interesting... wonder how he keeps the blade tracking on those tires. Wonder how inflated they need to be for that to work. Wonder how long the tires last before the blade set starts eating away at the tread, or if that's even a problem. I'd like to see that thing in action.

 

[oneadam12]

how did a real redneck make it that far north?:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

I've seen quite a few built this way. Pretty clever, indeed. A while back I was kicking around the idea of building one for slabbing using 18 wheeler tires just for fun. I think I'll be sticking with the CSM for a while.

 

[carvinmark]

I saw plans for sale somewhere to make one using trailer tires and wheels.
Mark

 

[scottr]

Simple Saw

I saw plans for sale somewhere to make one using trailer tires and wheels.
Mark

If you google Bill Rakes Simple Saw you'll see more pictures .

 

[woodshop]

cool... thanks scottr, here is one of the sites

http://kruppt.tripod.com/

Whoever made the website could have done without the music, but interesting pics of the mill.

 

[gunnarfan]

I'll have to look into this as well. I've already salvaged the base for it. Now I'm regretting getting rid of some of my solid bike rims.

Oh well scored another partner! :greenchainsaw:

 

[Rail-O-Matic]

On closer inspection, it looks like the rubber tyres are solid, like the ones found on some pallet trucks, the mounting of the stub axles would be easy to do, needing only one strong box section or cross member, instead of two like most band mills on the market.
However it works, its really simple and a new way to make something, judging by the members comments, you might have started making something already, I know I have, will keep you posted to what how and why.

Davy.

 

[oneadam12]

wow! who knew. it looks like a doable project from the pictures on the site. wonder about the tires for the drive though. do they hold up?

 

[scottr]

Tires

wow! who knew. it looks like a doable project from the pictures on the site. wonder about the tires for the drive though. do they hold up?

A neighbor has a Turner Mill with 13" wheels that gives it a 21" diameter wheel . His mill is about four years old with no problems .

 

[Andy1234]

I would think that forklift tires/wheels would work.

pros: solid rubber tire, different sizes available (12"-24" dia), CHEAP (visit a local scrapyard)

cons: HEAVY

FWIW,

Andy

 

[Rail-O-Matic]

Making a Home Made Band Mill

I have found the ideal wheels and tires for the simple band mil, they are two of those space saver wheels from a Saab, nice and narrow with brand new tires fitted, got them from our local breakers yard 20 bucks each.

Got an old lawnmower tractor ride on Honda 13hp engine, good runner for 50 bucks.

Bought new steel for the side rail, 125 x 75 angle, 100 x 50 x 3 box for the frame spacers, 20 x 20 angle for the trolly wheel runners, all for 100 bucks.

I will post some pictures when I have them.

Davy.

 

[dustytools]

Have you got any ideas yet as to how to build the carriage. Tensioner, height adjustment, Etc...?

 

[Rail-O-Matic]

For the tensioner I'm going to use a small hydraulic ram with gauge and screw type piston, similar to the kind found on a set of hydraulic pullers.

For height adjustment I'm going to use new acme rods and nuts linked across with bycicle chain and sprokets.

The saw main frame will be of aluminium, because you can buy it in sizes that will slide inside each other more acurately than steel, I have acsess to a tig welder to weld things up here.

For powering the belt to the band wheel, I'm going to buy one of those industrial centrifugal clutches, that fits straight onto the engine shaft.

For log leveller, I'm going to make a wide V bracket/plate, welded onto the top of a large commercial scissor jack.

For log dogs, a set of expanding jaws closed by another acme thread, fastened to the maim chassis cross member under the log, use acme thread and nut and geared head from scissor jack, make sure of depth of cut, so you do not cut through with band.

For a log turner, use a hand wynch welded to a plate on top of a 2 inch box section, which slots into another box welded to the main chassis, the nylon strap type, place strap under log and around to the other side of the log, knock in a peg, turn wynch and the strap will turn log around and over.

Lets call this the crap heap challenge, to see who can make the cheapest mill here.

Davy.

 

[woodshop]

I will post some pictures when I have them.

Davy.

This should be VERY interesting... I am looking forward to seeing what you came up with.

 

[dustytools]

For the tensioner I'm going to use a small hydraulic ram with gauge and screw type piston, similar to the kind found on a set of hydraulic pullers.

For height adjustment I'm going to use new acme rods and nuts linked across with bycicle chain and sprokets.

The saw main frame will be of aluminium, because you can buy it in sizes that will slide inside each other more acurately than steel, I have acsess to a tig welder to weld things up here.

For powering the belt to the band wheel, I'm going to buy one of those industrial centrifugal clutches, that fits straight onto the engine shaft.

For log leveller, I'm going to make a wide V bracket/plate, welded onto the top of a large commercial scissor jack.

For log dogs, a set of expanding jaws closed by another acme thread, fastened to the maim chassis cross member under the log, use acme thread and nut and geared head from scissor jack, make sure of depth of cut, so you do not cut through with band.

For a log turner, use a hand wynch welded to a plate on top of a 2 inch box section, which slots into another box welded to the main chassis, the nylon strap type, place strap under log and around to the other side of the log, knock in a peg, turn wynch and the strap will turn log around and over.

Lets call this the crap heap challenge, to see who can make the cheapest mill here.

Davy.

If you would like go back to an early post of mine called first time milling on homemade carriage and rails (I think thats right) and maybe that will give you an idea or two with the height adjustment. Sounds a lot like the way that I built mine. Only mine was built to carry my alaskan mill. Good luck, I cant wait to see some pictures.

 

[Rail-O-Matic]

Here is the first pictures of my home made bandsaw mill.

The chasis will be made in two 3 meter sections to keep things short and nimble, and both pieces connect via two 25 X 50m tubes, with a 20.00mm bore and 125 X 20 nut and bolt, see picture.

Each section is made up of two side rails consisting of two 125 X 75 X 8 mm angles sections, cost 70 quid for both sections, the cross members are welded in place, so the bottom of the box is level with the bottom of the angle, leaving 25mm gap above the box.

The cross members are 100 X 50 X 3 mm box, of which there are four pieces at 30 inch long, cost 50 quid for all eight pieces, all are welded at 1 meter apart, one at either end and two in the middle, giving a very solid bed, see picture.

The drawbar is a 6 foot length of 60 X 60 box section, which is welded to the end and first cross members, leaving enough length for turning/manouvering, I have used a lockable cast ball hitch unit, cost 25 quid.

Wheels are two Fiat Punto space saver spare wheels, cost 10 quid each from a scrapyard, which are like brand new due to them hardly ever being used.

Axle is a new standard 750 Kg unit, with indespension bushes, and mini type hubs, cost 140 quid.

Jockey wheel cost 27 quid, all this make up the entire chassis platform.

 

[Rail-O-Matic]

showing the chasis, the flat 75mm flat surface of the angle is where a
20 X 20 X 5 mm angle is welded with the point of the angle facing upwards, this is where the trolley wheels with run upon, more pictures coming soon.

The upright box on the side of the chasis is for the turn over wynch, which I will show soon, the axle is fitted via two 250 X 80 X 8 mm flat plate, which are welded to the side of the main side angle rails.

 

[Adkpk]

Looks like it 'ill steer straight down the road but will it cut? Nice pics, keep 'um coming, rail. opcorn: