Bar Oil

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That oil is SOLD by Electrolux/Husqvarna, it's MADE by the lowest bidder. I have always been a Stihl fan but I'm not about to tell you that their oil as any different than the other brands.
 
Originally posted by sedanman
That oil is SOLD by Electrolux/Husqvarna, it's MADE by the lowest bidder. I have always been a Stihl fan but I'm not about to tell you that their oil as any different than the other brands.

Hi sedanman,

1) At the time I bought the snapper oil at walmart, was because it was cheap and what they had. I didn't even know it was husqvarna oil, but since it is, since I'm considering a husky saw, even though it's cheap, won't it be ok to use in a new husky saw?


2) And, other than a higher price, what is the difference between than this snapper bar oil, and bar oil in a jug marked with husqvarna on it's label?

3) You ever use veg oil for your bar oil? What would ya'll say if I decided to use veg oil regularly in a new husky saw?

Thanks,
 
What kind of bar oil isn't gonna matter,since you are determined to put a 20" bar on an underpowered saw for the task, and likely have an oiler that won't be adequate for the task anyhow.

Just a thought.
 
The snapper oil would be fine in any saw. The only reason I would not use veg oil is because stuff grows in it.
 
Originally posted by Newfie
What kind of bar oil isn't gonna matter,since you are determined to put a 20" bar on an underpowered saw for the task, and likely have an oiler that won't be adequate for the task anyhow.

1) Well, I'm not determined to put a 20" bar on, it's just that it only costs $7 more than an 18". But, ya'll have pretty much convinced me, that if I get the 350 I'll just stick to the 18" bar.

2) And, if I go with a 353, outfit it with an 20" bar, that should work, shouldn't it?

Decisions, Decisions!!!!

Thanks,
 
wiley_p said:
Shoot after you've cut up a few moose you find all kinds of short cuts , just make sure you have rain pants and rubber boots on it gets a little slimy also Extra virgin olive oil is the way to go when quartering large game animals. Learn all kinds of dandy things from that old Martha Stewart.
i prefer de-virginized olive oil when i am bucking my moose, though i do wear the rain pants and rubber pants :p
 
Newfie said:
What kind of bar oil isn't gonna matter,since you are determined to put a 20" bar on an underpowered saw for the task, and likely have an oiler that won't be adequate for the task anyhow.

Just a thought.


Ya know, I did go ahead and get a 20" bar on my 350 Husky when I bought it, & it works just fine for "an under powered saw"!!! Just goes to show you what Ya'll "Experts" know.

Now I remember why I quit coming to this site. I just got plumb tuckered out trying to wade through all the B.S. on this site, just trying to get a straight answer! This place is just a big waste of time, unless you've just got nothing better to do! This site could be really helpful, but, as it is now, it's only a big joke! Thanks for nothing!
 
It is called a forum, so everyone could express their own opinions. Not set up to help
people neccesarily, some people here help with good advice, some may give bad advice, some just like to post a lot, some like to joke about as well. Only 4 members
here have proclaimed themselves as "experts".
If you don't like this site, Darin will give you your money back.
 
i will be the first to say i have learned a great deal of info, tricks, and advice on felling, stumping, bucking, chain sharpening, saw repair, and maintenance on this site. i have also given my opinions and advice on a few things which differed greatly from other members, but that is part of the forum idea...it breaks down to "what works best for me, may not work best for you". i think about info i get here and try some of the ideas i get if they seem worth while, if they work for me, they do, if they don't, they don't. this is the only chainsaw forum i go to cause i feel the information is adequate enough where as i do not need to go to a different site.
i give the site 2 thumbs up (i'd give three if i did not not cut it off with my saw before i found out about proper PPE from this site:))
 
<"If you don't like this site, Darin will give you your money back".>


Oh NO, Definately worth what I paid for it!
 
woodturner said:
Ya know, I did go ahead and get a 20" bar on my 350 Husky when I bought it, & it works just fine for "an under powered saw"!!! Just goes to show you what Ya'll "Experts" know.

Now I remember why I quit coming to this site. I just got plumb tuckered out trying to wade through all the B.S. on this site, just trying to get a straight answer! This place is just a big waste of time, unless you've just got nothing better to do! This site could be really helpful, but, as it is now, it's only a big joke! Thanks for nothing!

Well, not to be mean, but.... going by this statement, I can tell you one of two things. One, you have no clue how a saw "properly performs", or two, you do not use that 20 inch bar to it's fullest. My dad has a Husky 350 with a 16" bar and it boggs down making full bar cuts. Brand new chain, hand filed chain, ground then hand sharpened chain, it doesn't matter. No way is that saw running properly with the 20 inch bar, unless your making 6" cut's, but than why spend the money on the bigger bar???
 
Well, not to be mean, but, maybe your Dad doesn't know how to use the saw?

The saw works for me, even tho ya'll don't want to acknowledge it.
 
Woodturner, I am not at all surprised that you like the 20 inch bar on the 3 CID class of saws, That is my prefered length also-but I prefer the 20 Inch bar to avoid stooping over while bucking small stuff and slashing brush. The 50-55cc saws will pull chain on a 20inch buried bar and I have used them thusly in a pinch but I definitely prefer to pick up one of my larger displacement saws when the wood gets over 14 inches in diameter. -In that sense Mike was right about the Rancher being 'underpowered'- but there are other reasons to choose bar length besides log diameter and the 50cc saw can do a fair job in big wood if it is all you have.
No insult intended to neverenough but there is either a problem with the saw, the chain set up or the operator's technique if a 50cc saw struggles with a 16" buried bar. Don't expect it to be as fast as a higher Hp powerhead but it should spit chips well.
 
woodturner said:
Well, not to be mean, but, maybe your Dad doesn't know how to use the saw?

The saw works for me, even tho ya'll don't want to acknowledge it.

Yeah, that's it, it's not the fact your stupid enough to put a 20 inch bar on a 3 hp saw.
 
Hi guys!

I have been coming to this site off and on for over 3-1/2 years to get great advice. I have silently read thousands of posts about every type of subject here. Originally, I was looking for a chainsaw and posted to an engine lubricant forum looking for advice, and someone sent me here. What a wealth of knowledge!

I was looking for a saw to clean up my overgrown 1.5 acre yard around a 110 yr old farmhouse that we bought in 1992 from a 96 year old lady who had lived there since 1934. The house needed major updates and repairs (it was probably condemnable when we bought it) so I spent my time on that first. When I got to the yard, I knew I needed a chainsaw, but I was quite afraid of them. I work as a mason and use Stihl masonry saws daily, but I know that chainsaws, although having very similar powerheads, are much meaner beasts.

I always want to buy a tool once, and buy it for life, whenever possible. Money, however, was tight at the time due to 2 toddlers and all the house updates. I decided that $250 to $300 would have to be the budget. I found this thread and have been hooked on this site ever since.

I wanted a Stihl 026, but the $450 price tag was waaaay too much. I looked at the 025, but it did not look to be in the same class as the 026. The thread spoke well of the CS-4400, and a few weeks later Home Depot had them on closeout for $260. I believe they were being replaced at the time by the new, slightly larger, CS-440. Looking at the 2 saws, the difference was mainly the side chain tightener on the new model. (I know it is also listed as being a few cc's larger in displacement) It also happens that Home Depot was running a 10% off sale on home and garden equipment for Memorial Day, AND I had just received my Home Depot card which offered 10% off my first purchase with it. I walked out with it for $221.13, tax included.

This saw is only 43.6 cc displacement, and is rated as having 2.95 hp. According to prior posts here, I should not run this saw with a 20" bar...unless I wish to be called an "idiot" or be chastised as being stupid.

My saw came standard with an 18" bar. The recommended bar lengths are 16" - 20". I used the 18" bar with much success, logging an estimated 150-200 hours with no problems cutting a lot of 10"-16" diameter trees. Labor Day weekend this year we set out to take down the rest of the trees. These trees were:

4 Yellow Pines between 10" and 18"
4 Silver Maples between 12" and 18"
1 Cottonwood White Poplar 30"
2 Box Elders, a 28" and a 55"
1 Norway Spruce 22"
1 White Pine 30"
1 Sugar Maple 38"
assorted smaller trees less than 6" in diameter

These were all trees around the house that, for one reason or another, had to go. The Sugar Maple was over 90 years old (it was big enough to show up on aerial photographs taken of the area in 1932!) but it was split by lightning and had opened up a huge crack that went right to the ground. It was 95 feet tall and leaned over my new 4 car garage, so...

Anyways, I bought a 20" Oregon bar and chain combo for the bigger trees. I am sure that it did not do the job as well as a 70 cc Stihl with a 20" bar would have, but my little Echo did get through the wood with no problems. By Monday night my wife and I had finished getting rid of all the brush and had called for the stump grinder. All of the good wood was cut up with the Echo and given to 3 friends who had helped haul brush away all weekend and owned woodburning furnaces. All of the crap wood was cut up by the Echo and given to a family member for campfire wood.

What I am saying is that this little, underpowered, off-brand saw was capable of using a 20" bar for roughly 40 hours of runtime in a 3 day period and was quite capable.

Maybe I should have put the stock bar back on it for all but the thickest cuts. I didn't really care to do that. Instead, an older (late 60's) neighbor used my bar-mounted file guide to touch up the chain a few times a day when I took a break, and we left the 20" bar on it.

After reading all these posts, I will probably buy a 16" bar and chain combo for general use, as the 18" chain needs replacement and I can get the bar and chain combo for just a few bucks more than the chain itself. I do however, think that a few of these posts are pretty harsh. My guess is that the guy who asked about the 20" bar is probably a homeowner like me, not a pro who will log 1,000 hours a year on a single saw and needs the most efficient setup possible.

All these years of reading quietly in the background as a "guest", and today I had to register and post just to ask you guys to lighten up a bit. This site has tought me how to use a chainsaw. It has moved me to use Canola oil for bar and chain oil. It has swayed me to use Mobil 1 Racing 2T instead of Stihl or generic 2-stroke oil. It has given me great information on safety and correct procedures and techniques.

I'm not a pro, so you can discount my using a 20" bar on a "close to 3 hp" model, but why call anyone names for doing so? Maybe it is the only saw he has and needs to use one.

Sorry for the rant, and I hope to read silently in the background for many more years. I felt I had to post because this is one of the most civilized forums I read (and I read a LOT of forums to gain knowledge about various subjects). PLEASE don't let this gem of a site turn into a bickering, name calling fiasco that sooo many other well intended forums have become!
 
neverenough and woodturner...break it up...although I REALLY enjoyed readying that little bickering...however...woodturner's right. HA! I said it!
 
I think regular bar oil you would by from Home Depot is veggie based. That's what I remember reading on the jug. My neighbor uses motor oil.
 
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