bar oil

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I know I am going to get some "slack" on this post but I DO run a 50/50 mix of Stihl and good clean motor oil and I have been using it for 3 years now and can HONESTLY say that I cannot see a damn bit of difference. Like one of the previous guys posted.... chains and bars are relatively cheap and you can easily spend that equivalent in expensive new Stihl (or other brand) oil. I have yet to wear out a bar and yet have saved $$$ in using the 50/50.

P.S. the old motor oil is strained through paint cone filters so it is as clean as it can get. I change my oil at 2000 miles so it is not all that dirty.

Tree Raptor

Used motor oil is classified as toxic waste, and it may well be illegal to spray it out in the woods. Especially in sensitive watersheds. It destroys underground aquifers as sources of drinking water. Bar oil is not that darned expensive.
 
I thought used motor oil was a carcinogen? I use rubber gloves when i do an oil change and have as little to do with it as poss.
Cheers Andy.
 
lastly, "good clean" motor oil? If it was good and clean you wouldn't remove it from your vehicle (i wouldn't anyhow).

:givebeer:
 
You must have some hard, dusty wood over there, because I noticed the high output oil pump with the 1.15 mm stroke, rather than the 0.9 mm stroke standard pump, is listed as an AUS part. Does sand get in the wood as teh tree grows? I have never been there, and I figure there must be a good reason for having a special Australian oil pump.

Yep - most trees are just hard, some are harder, and a few are impossibly hard. When I mill some trees that have been cut down for more than a year or so it pays to cut a 6" cookie off the starting end otherwise 90% of the chain sharpness disappears in cutting into that first inch or so of dead dry wood. This also helps gets rid of sand embedded in cracks etc.

A number of trees will absorb silica when they are stressed such as during a drought which seems to be continual in many places. Many of the trees drop branches when they are stressed, the other tough ask are trees that have been partially blown over and are living on a couple of laterals still in the ground. If there are other trees around you walk past these and look at something else. Last year I milled a small tree called a rock oak. It was already very hard to begin with but it was also a partial blow down which made it even worse. Very nice wood though.

When I'm milling anything over ~20" wide with my 076 I have the oil flow set to max (19 ml/min) and I also have my aux oiler set to the same rate (~20 mL/min). At 30"+ wide I increase the Aux oiler flow to ~30 mL/min but the chain and bar still get very hot. I'm looking forward to using my new 880 which can deliver 38 mL/min at the saw
 
I personally run poulan bar oil, what I can find for about 6 bucks a gallon. Taht chain pro stuff has some nasty stuff at the bottom of the jug when you get done with it, and it seems way too runny. IMo not worht spending 12 bucks twice as much for the stihl. If I buy 10 gallons of poulan bar oil, or 10 gallons of stihl, either way a bar is mostly worn out after 10 gallons of bar oil go through the saw and I have 60 bucks in the bank for a new bar buying the cheap oil.
 
Is it really that expensive?!

Went to a local Ace the other day to get a gallon of Stihl bar oil for the usual $9.99. The clerk pointed out that they had a 3-gallon carton for $22.99. Brought one home. That should last me awhile! :)
 
I thought used motor oil was a carcinogen? I use rubber gloves when i do an oil change and have as little to do with it as poss.
Cheers Andy.

It's only a known carcinogen in the state of California. Mechanics have their hands in it all the time. Sometimes I think life is a carcinogen.
 
I run husky oil. Just bought winter wt. 8.99 gal at local husky dealer. Local tractor store only has summer wt. 8.79 gal. I have run other cheaper brands when prices went up but now I have found they are all pretty close in price now within a buck or two.
 
The way i figure it, i can save five dollars a gallon by buying poulan oil over stihl. 7.99 vs 12.99. I dunno how many gallons a bar would go through before it is wore out, i would imagine 20 or more. But in ten gallons, you've saved fifty bucks. That will more than buy a bar. So why pay 12.99 for oil? I really can't tell a difference, even if it was the same price, i would grab whichever was closest.
 
you guys miss the boat wen gas was$ 4.50 a gallon i got 10 cases from homedepot four$ 4.89 a gallon:jawdrop: he he tom trees
 
I have heard of guys using used motor oil that they have run through a fine filter and then added a pint of STP per gallon for anti-wear and tackyness. They claim it works as good as the virgin bar oil, but a lot cheaper. Personally I run Stihl bar oil.
 
bar and chain old 50/50 mix

Have you priced good bars lately? I don't know about you but $60.00 plus is not cheap, and a good Stihl chain are pricey also put the two together and it adds up(especially for bars & chains 24" plus in length). I think I will spend a little more for a decent bar oil and spare my bars and chains. Yeah I know you can find the cheap ones on Fleabay and second hand, but good bars are not that cheap.

I appreciate your cander Brinkwolf..... it's just that I honestly cannot see or tell any difference in wear. That is why I mix good clean used with 50% Stihl oil, this way I am almost "there" but with 1/2 the cost. Will heed your advise however and keep a very close eye on things. Tree Raptor
 

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