bar size for 365sp.

[parrisw]

Well, opinions vary, as they should!

I say (as a guide-line);

70cc, 18-24",

60cc, 15-18", maybe 20",

50cc, 15-16".

However, nothing is cast in stone - as conditions vary - those numbers are based mostly on balance, as we don't have any really large wood up here.

I really had use for the 24" bar I have for the 372xp only one time, but that was before I had that bar, and the 20" did the job just fine. "Overbucking" works just fine for felling as well as bucking, when you know what you do......

Yes Niko. Out here, 24" wood is considered a peckerpole. My 70cc saws have no trouble pulling 28" bars. In fact I'd say my latest 371 would pull a 32" bar just fine.

My 200T has 16" on it, so you can see where I'm coming from.

 

[Cody82]

Thanks for all the great feedback some very good points as ive only just started playing around with saws abit.
I guess what it comes down too as the diff between 18 and 20 is pretty minimal is cost. I'll see how I go but as I need a new bar I might stick with the new 18inch I have and just get a couple of new chains...

 

[SawTroll]

Yes Niko. Out here, 24" wood is considered a peckerpole. My 70cc saws have no trouble pulling 28" bars. In fact I'd say my latest 371 would pull a 32" bar just fine.

My 200T has 16" on it, so you can see where I'm coming from.

Well, my post was obviously not about what they "can pull" (hopeless expression btw.), more about what is ideal - but I guess you got that point!

Different conditions leads to different solutions!

 

[parrisw]

Well, my post was obviously not about what they "can pull" (hopeless expression btw.), more about what is ideal - but I guess you got that point!

Different conditions leads to different solutions!

Exactly!

I like longer, then I don't have to bend at all. I use 28" for limbing too, then I can just walk the log and limb the branches. No need to bend over using a small saw/bar.

 

[SawTroll]

Thanks for all the great feedback some very good points as ive only just started playing around with saws abit.
I guess what it comes down too as the diff between 18 and 20 is pretty minimal is cost. I'll see how I go but as I need a new bar I might stick with the new 18inch I have and just get a couple of new chains...

Yes, do that, you got the point!

Just check the gauge of the bar, before you order the chains.

If you old 20" bar still is servicable, you can use them up on that one - if not, you can save them for later.

What really is wrong with your 20" bar, and how many chain have you wore out on it?

 

[Cody82]

Well the chains are neally at the end of their life as they have been sharpened alot and the bar end has separated a little and the groove in the bar rail is bigger and the chain isnt as snug as it should be.

 

[SawTroll]

Well the chains are neally at the end of their life as they have been sharpened alot and the bar end has separated a little and the groove in the bar rail is bigger and the chain isnt as snug as it should be.

Just go ahead with the 18" bar then!

 

[Gypo Logger]

You'd be really impressed with a 16" bar and 8T rim. I never liked the 18" bars because you end up with two left or right hand cutters following each other. Not that that really matters, it just irks me. Lol
I've got a 13" on my 154.
John

 

[SawTroll]

You'd be really impressed with a 16" bar and 8T rim. I never liked the 18" bars because you end up with two left or right hand cutters following each other. Not that that really matters, it just irks me. Lol
I've got a 13" on my 154.
John

I don't like to post this, but I have to;

Sounds like you refer to the 66dl Stihl mount 18" chain, and not the Husky mount 68dl ones that we are discussing here. The 68dl ones will have 17 cutters on each side, but the 66dl ones will need to have 17 on one side and 16 on the other side, and ends up like you said. You won't notise it in practical use though.

Btw, Stihl also have even funnier dl counts on some .325 bars and chain - how symmetrical will a 63dl and a 67dl chain be??? :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange: - and how does the dealers that spin their own loops handle it? You have to choose between a "full house" vs. a "skip" sequence, in a basically full comp chain. With one option, the number of left and right cutters will be the same, but not with the other one.
To me, the choise would be easy, avoid the "skip" option, but I don't know how Stihl and the dealers handle it.

 

[FATGUY]

Yes my friend, but the topic was 20" vs. 18", as he didn't need as much as 20" - and not what the saw is capable of running.

my bad, didn't read carefuly