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View attachment 550381 [QUOTE="svk, post: 6116640,

There was not a lot to work with to control that one. Standing behind the lean, the long thin trunk ran with the lean front to back. The huge hollow and missing 2/3 of the trunk made a natural super large face cut and sort of a hinge. looking from the back the tree, hinge would make it fall to the left and the lean would make it want to fall straight ahead. I was hoping, and praying for sort of a combination of the two. I cut the hinge down super thin on the front side so there would not be much holding it on that side. Then cut it like it was a regular face cut and back cut, keeping the compression side of the hinge thin, and the back side thicker hoping, and praying some more, it would hold a little longer as it started to fall. I really thought it would fall as soon as I started cutting the back cut. You can see by the picture of the stump, I did a lot of cutting before it let go. It went within 10' of where I was aiming, and praying for. All that praying, it's good to have the guy that invented gravity helping you out.

Who can be against us?


2 Rings & A Flattop, LLC Test Dummy
 
Would have thought red oak much more prone than white oak? Black locust would be way up there on my list although not often cut commercially
It's about the length of the wood fibers. Usually red oak will pop off the stump before it will slab kind of like hard maple. I've had one red oak chair on me that I can remember versus many white oak.
 
View attachment 550260


Bingo!
I paid 750.00 for that cherry tree, plus 15,000 for the other 23 trees I bought in that particular bush.
The cherry had a double crown, so when it hits the ground or catches another tree on the way down it can split from crown to butt.
As an added precaution I stay with the tree and saw off most if not all holding wood once the tree is committed. That way the tree can roll off the stump with little or no fibre pull.
Bitzer is gonna give me heck for posting these 17 year old pics, and you can't really blame him. Lol
John you've got some good pics. I like seeing any pictures of logging operations really. Fun to see new ones. That is a load of logs if it was truck and pup.
 
I can't say much for your employer that first week. His wife must have been the insurance investigator for the company. LOL.
Your instincts and desire to learn a better way have kept you alive and healthy.

I REALLY like that method for cutting leaners, better than a coos bay. You can better keep track of the hinge width on the opposite side and the back cut will not wander too high or too low in respect to the face cut as often happens (to me) with bigger trees. The back cut is easier to control with a shorter bar. The bore is only half of the tree width so it is faster. I have a question, what makes your decision to sometimes bore out the heartwood, entered from the face cut?
I bore the heart from the face on most every sawtimber tree that does not get a Dutchman. If I know I can saw it off the stump then I don't but if I'm chasing the hinge and I know I will leave some especially on big sticks then I cut the heart for sure. On hard Leaners it's a must. Removing as much compression wood as possible before releasing is the name of the game when it comes to hard leaning timber.
 
I bore the heart from the face on most every sawtimber tree that doesn't get a Dutchman.
We call that a beavertail or beavertailin' .
It gets its name from the beaver tail like patterns left in the stump from swiping back and forth. Very prominent in the soft wood 'white woods'.
 
I'll be chaining my first tree ever in the next day or two. Not becases it's a leaner, even though it is, but because it's already split nearly in half and that split is working against the direction it needs to go (about 90 degrees from the lean).

Here's a heavy leaning dead ash dropped a couple years ago using the plunge & bore method

Two big dead ash leaning over my trail through the woods. The bigger one had a 10" cedar hung up in it.



Cleared my escape routes. Cut a shallow steep notch to try to steer it away from the black walnuts growing in the area



Drew a line around the trunk with my saw then plunged & bored out the center



Bulls eye! (Sorry this pics a little fuzzy, I was shaking pretty good after she hit the ground
eek.gif
)



Doesn't look like much, but it popped pretty good when I was cutting the trigger from the center out. That was my queue to run for the hills.

 
I'll be chaining my first tree ever in the next day or two. Not becases it's a leaner, even though it is, but because it's already split nearly in half and that split is working against the direction it needs to go (about 90 degrees from the lean).

Here's a heavy leaning dead ash dropped a couple years ago using the plunge & bore method

Two big dead ash leaning over my trail through the woods. The bigger one had a 10" cedar hung up in it.



Cleared my escape routes. Cut a shallow steep notch to try to steer it away from the black walnuts growing in the area



Drew a line around the trunk with my saw then plunged & bored out the center



Bulls eye! (Sorry this pics a little fuzzy, I was shaking pretty good after she hit the ground
eek.gif
)



Doesn't look like much, but it popped pretty good when I was cutting the trigger from the center out. That was my queue to run for the hills.

Nice level cuts. Wood looks pretty punky. I'd say you got lucky it didn't sit on your bar. You cut it up a little tight. Not my preferred method but I'd say well executed other then that. I'd throw a snipe in the stump next time too. Extra relief.
 
I'm the 4th generation in the family doing residential tree work. I tend to stay away from giving felling advice. If you look at the pro guys here, they all have one thing in common that can really change the outcome of dropping a tree. They have big, powerful, sharp saws. THE TIME THAT STRESS IS ON WOOD MATTERS. I've always used 100CC saws for felling. If I'm in smaller wood I'll put a 25 in bar on, bigger 36", bigger 47". If some one is using an MS 290 with a 20" bar and half dull chain, and they are rocking back and forth trying to make a back cut, they are an accident in progress. Now that I'm retired most of my cutting is firewood. So my big saw is a 660. I don't know how many times I've showed up to help friends that have just moved up to their first pro quality saw and want to show it off. Here try my new saw, it's bad azz. I make one cut, shake my head and say, "I can't use this thing, it's dull". They are so used to nicking the ground with each cut, that after 5 minutes they don't even know the saw is dull. Firewood guys should never try throwing a hollow tree. A few BTU's aren't worth your life. Hollow trees scare pros. Most firewood guys don't know enough about them to be scared. I've seen lots of the guys here progress. I've seen the light bulb come on when they learned how to sharpen saws, when they learned how to use face cuts, they have grown. So, I know there are guys here just starting, and they don't know. You can't be aware of what you don't know. Give advice assuming people are using sub standard equipment, most are. Take advice assuming your equipment is sub standard, it probably is. I've made it 60 years with only a few minor nicks and cuts. But I grew up under trees. At 5 I could tie a saw on my Dad's rope with a bowline, and get out from under the tree before he pulled it up. Always cut with a friend. If you have to take a video of your new found skills, we will probably see it on youtube under tree failures. Your cell is your friend, your video is not. To say every one has to start somewhere is true, if you are learning a trade, like residential tree removal or logging. Cutting firewood to heat your house is not a trade. Some trees you should just shake your head and walk away. Wait till nature brings it down. This isn't the Pro Forum, or Logging forum. Just be careful, end of my ramble, Joe.
 
@rarefish383 , that is spot on. i was very tempted to throw out my version of advise on here but i figured i would let the loggers weigh in. owning a tree service myself for 4 years has taught me a ton. it has thankfully taught me to walk away sometimes too. i cant believe i made it out alive through 15 years of cutting firewood and helping friends with storm damaged trees. hollow trees still scare the crap out of me. i wont climb them and if i cant get the bucket truck near them i walk away
 
I'm the 4th generation in the family doing residential tree work. I tend to stay away from giving felling advice. If you look at the pro guys here, they all have one thing in common that can really change the outcome of dropping a tree. They have big, powerful, sharp saws. THE TIME THAT STRESS IS ON WOOD MATTERS. I've always used 100CC saws for felling. If I'm in smaller wood I'll put a 25 in bar on, bigger 36", bigger 47". If some one is using an MS 290 with a 20" bar and half dull chain, and they are rocking back and forth trying to make a back cut, they are an accident in progress. Now that I'm retired most of my cutting is firewood. So my big saw is a 660. I don't know how many times I've showed up to help friends that have just moved up to their first pro quality saw and want to show it off. Here try my new saw, it's bad azz. I make one cut, shake my head and say, "I can't use this thing, it's dull". They are so used to nicking the ground with each cut, that after 5 minutes they don't even know the saw is dull. Firewood guys should never try throwing a hollow tree. A few BTU's aren't worth your life. Hollow trees scare pros. Most firewood guys don't know enough about them to be scared. I've seen lots of the guys here progress. I've seen the light bulb come on when they learned how to sharpen saws, when they learned how to use face cuts, they have grown. So, I know there are guys here just starting, and they don't know. You can't be aware of what you don't know. Give advice assuming people are using sub standard equipment, most are. Take advice assuming your equipment is sub standard, it probably is. I've made it 60 years with only a few minor nicks and cuts. But I grew up under trees. At 5 I could tie a saw on my Dad's rope with a bowline, and get out from under the tree before he pulled it up. Always cut with a friend. If you have to take a video of your new found skills, we will probably see it on youtube under tree failures. Your cell is your friend, your video is not. To say every one has to start somewhere is true, if you are learning a trade, like residential tree removal or logging. Cutting firewood to heat your house is not a trade. Some trees you should just shake your head and walk away. Wait till nature brings it down. This isn't the Pro Forum, or Logging forum. Just be careful, end of my ramble, Joe.
Great advice!
 
Would have thought red oak much more prone than white oak? Black locust would be way up there on my list although not often cut commercially

Ouch. Most of my wood is white oak. Fortunately mother nature takes most of them down for me and for firewood white does not split as easily as red. Duly noted.
 
image.jpeg image.jpeg
Well, looking at Gypo Loggers picture I maybe better do something different with the big cherry that fell over in the bush this past summer. What length would you cut a peeler 8'-4"? They are logging up the road from me right now, looks like they are removing pretty much every ash tree even small 8" stuff.
In the east where I cut, 8' 6" was the minimum for veneer, then 9'4" and 10'4" Could you post a pic of your windthrown cherry? Preferably the butt and stump end.
 
I bore the heart from the face on most every sawtimber tree that does not get a Dutchman. If I know I can saw it off the stump then I don't but if I'm chasing the hinge and I know I will leave some especially on big sticks then I cut the heart for sure. On hard Leaners it's a must. Removing as much compression wood as possible before releasing is the name of the game when it comes to hard leaning timber.

OK, compression wood. I have heard you recommend removing as much as possible a few times in the past. We can figure the compression wood going to the center of the stem.
 
image.jpeg
John you've got some good pics. I like seeing any pictures of logging operations really. Fun to see new ones. That is a load of logs if it was truck and pup.
Id take some current pics, but Im just cutting dead spruce which isnt too exciting, however, you will be happy to hear that I found at least 200 vids and pics that havent been seen here before, I just need to figure out how to get them off this disc and onto my IPad.
Yes it was a truck and pup, over 10,000 bf, if I recall correctly.
 
Gypo, I took a look at my pics because I thought the log might be in one of the pics. It's just at the right edge in this pic 2nd log in. I'm guessing 16" dia maybe, I'll get a few better pics next time I'm in that section. There is a couple of nice straight beauties back there but not mine to cut. Well until they fall on the ground that is. Last bush I logged in had a bunch of cherry that the loggers refused to take. Some idiot hunter years ago decided that 14" cherry trees are great trees to deer hunt out of. He did at least 10 trees that we found. He used lag bolts and 3" lengths of angle iron for tree climbing steps. Only inch or 2 of the steel sticking out. He even went up 30' for some stupid reason. I cut them up for firewood and ruining a couple of chains. IMG_20161230_165239.jpg
 
View attachment 550570
Id take some current pics, but Im just cutting dead spruce which isnt too exciting, however, you will be happy to hear that I found at least 200 vids and pics that havent been seen here before, I just need to figure out how to get them off this disc and onto my IPad.
Yes it was a truck and pup, over 10,000 bf, if I recall correctly.
I'm always amazed how heavy you guys can run. Our loads are literally half that.
 
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