Bent beam on log splitter

[Flaps]

Picked up this splitter the other day on craigs list for $600.00 . It runs good and splits fine but the top of the beam and push plate are bent. They probably tried to split Eucalyptus wood, it’s hard as rock and twisted like a barber pole. I'm wondering if I should try to straighten the top of the beam or maybe flip it over and start from scratch. I have straightened a beam like this before on a different splitter but it was hell to do. I used a torch to heat it and a hydraulic press (the press bent before the beam did) but I did get it straight.

Another idea I had was to grind the top of the beam down (level) and add-(weld) metal under the top plate. I'm also going to add a 1/2 plate to the top of the beam once it's straightened out. Going to build a new push plate from scratch. The old one is completely bent and tweaked.

It's got a 5.5 hp Honda engine, 4 1/2 O.D. cylinder (not sure of the I.D), 1.750 shaft, a 24 inch stroke, and return detent valve. Has a few minor leaks, tires are good and came with a spare tire. I figured for $600.00 and a little work, I can at least get splitting.

I also noticed that there is no hydraulic oil filter, is this ok to run? One thing I don’t like is the splitter is really low to the ground, tires are small, may have to raise it up later on.

I'm in the process of building a much bigger splitter similar to the "big boy" splitter at SPLIT-EZ. I bought this small splitter just to get splitting for now. Any ideas/comments on that bent beam problem and filter would be great. I can not for the life of me get pics to show up when I preview the post, so I’ll just attach a few pics the old fashioned way and hope they are visible by clicking the link. Let me know if the pics come threw…..Thanks again……

 

[Flaps]

more pics

more pics.....

 

[Flaps]

pics

pics

 

[Flaps]

pics

pics.....

 

[Flaps]

Last of the pics

few more shots of spliter.....Thanks again...Flaps

 

[1project2many]

Sectioning, straightening, and welding bent portions are likely part of the repair process along with application of an angry sledge. Flipping beam might be easier. How about heading to a scrap metal place to get a 2nd beam to place on top (solves height issue at same time)?

Hard to believe that thin knife could prevent wood from splitting and cause steel beam to bend. Bend is right at beginning of power stroke which suggests wood may not be the entirely at fault. Looks like splitter relied wholly on pushblock guides to keep front of cylinder in place. Is that piston bent? Beam is barely wider than cylinder, maybe 5"?? I'd suspect wedging of pushplate possibly caused by wood type. Good splitters will tear or cut wood that won't split. Adding a wider steel plate or beam will do great things to prevent misalignment and wedging and adding the plate could allow straightening job to be reduced to minimal effort. Build in looseness in pushplate guides and allow play in piston pin to eye as well. Combine these large tolerances with mount to attach front of cylinder to beam and you've got a machine which can better handle misalignment and deflected forces when log doesn't split straight. Try to build in a failure point during repair, possibly by attaching pushblock to outboard sides of piston with a pin that can shear rather than using the existing eye. With a known weak link it's much easier to repair damage if something goes wrong later.

Other than guides seizing / sticking I'd suspect bends are caused by using splitter "not as intended" or maybe by trying to lift and carry using chain connected to push block.

 

[atvguns]

How about heading to a scrap metal place to get a 2nd beam to place on top (solves height issue at same time)?

That sounds like a good idea to me that thing is way to low anyway

 

[BrokenToys]

For the work you got invested in it (it looks great too!) i'd definitely try to get a new I-Beam rail. The time alone you'll spend trying to straighten it isn't worth it since now it'll always be a problem spot.
I'd take their advice and also raise it up too with the new I-Beam. That thing is a back breaker !

 

[woodchop]

I also suspect the push plate, I attached a picture of mine.

 

[Oliver1655]

You have got a great find for the money!
- Believe it or not, with the size of the beam you have there, you can probable bend it back in shape by removing the cylinder, placing a big piece of wood under the beam where the bent flange is to help keep it from bouncing/loosing the energy from the maul, & hitting it with a heavy sledge hammer/maul. I have a 12 lb sledge hammer I used to "repair" the flanges on a 6" beam. I did it with out heating the flanges. If it it stubborn, heat it up & try again.
- I agree with the other posters the push slide/sled was most likely the problem. When your build the replacement, make sure the sled is at least as long as it is high. Remember the base of the slide can travel back under the cylinder so you could make it 12-14 inches long & as long as the flange is not obstructed, would not have any problems. Try to keep the cylinder parallel with your beam when it is mounted to your sled & fasten gussets on both sides to help prevent it from deforming & to help distribute the load. A 1/16" - 1/8" gap side to side & between the slide & beam is sufficient. See if it will slide freely by hand. Too much of a gap can allow it to twist too much & bind.
- By all means raise the beam up to where you can split without having to bend over!!! That is a change you will never regret.
- I would also add or have detachable out feed tables. They save your back big time!
- You can run it without a filter, but adding a filter between the valve & the reservoir tank, (approximately $25.00), will provide you with cheap insurance.

This splitter will more than just get you by, it will last you along time. However adding a log lift/crane will not be a bad idea. (Then once you get your ideal splitter built, you will be able to sell this one for at least 2-3 times what you have in it).

 

[rmh3481]

Excellent advice! Keep in mind that when you raise the platform, you have to lift the wood to that level. Adding a spin on filter for the feed line <non high pressure> should help keep the rust and crud out of the ram and valves.

 

[blades]

Scrap metal place or where ever( lot of times around here I can buy new for the same as the scrap yard wants) save a ton of messing around and replace beam. Common problem with vertical horizontal units.

 

[Flaps]

Thanks

Thanks for the suggestions....still tossing ideas around on what to do...I'll post pics as work progresses....

 

[mga]

just flip it over and remount.

and, (my theory only) i'd anchor the front of the cylinder to the beam. that will give you less of a "stress distance" when splitting tuff pieces. it will also keep your cylinder in place.

i did mine, same beam as yours, and nothing has bent it.

 

[Flaps]

Progress on splitter

View attachment 216099View attachment 216100View attachment 216101View attachment 216102View attachment 216103Finished a few more things on the splitter. I ended up cutting a section of the top of the bent beam out and welding in a thicker 3/4 inch plate. Added a few strong gussets and moved the cylinder back 2 inches. Also built a new push plate from scratch. More pics to come later....

 

[Flaps]

More pics 1

View attachment 216106View attachment 216108View attachment 216109View attachment 216110

 

[Flaps]

more pics 2

View attachment 216111View attachment 216112View attachment 216113View attachment 216114

 

[Flaps]

pics 3

View attachment 216115

 

[Flaps]

pics 4

View attachment 216117View attachment 216118View attachment 216119View attachment 216120

 

[Flaps]

pics

Let me know if the pics came threw...still haven't figured out how to post pics and have them come up with out clicking on the link---just got new computer--give me a few days and I'll figure it out---I hope !!!....thanks....