What about synthetic blends?
Generally speaking, I don't switch back & forth between synth. & dino oil. But, if caught in a situation that you had no other choice, nothing is going to blow up.
Best break in procedure??
- Thread starter Eric howes
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What about synthetic blends?
Generally speaking, I don't switch back & forth between synth. & dino oil. But, if caught in a situation that you had no other choice, nothing is going to blow up.
Eric howes
ArboristSite Operative
I was just curious how you guys broke your new saws in. From the sounds of it just set it a little rich and run it for a few thanks then lean it out a little....
Just be sure it four strokes out the cut and smooth in the cut.
I let mine warm up for a while. Make a few cuts at half throttle till you figure it up to temp then run it like you stole it.
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Just take the saw out and go cut some wood!!
See post #20 on this thread.
Crank it up and run it like a raped ape after you have the carb adjusted . I only use stihl in the orange bottle mixed at about 45 to one
Bobby Kirbos
Scrounger of Cellulose Based BTUs
To seat rings, which is all you are really doing in this break in procedure, the best way is to let saw warm up, set low and high jets, and then put it into some wood and cut wide open throttle with the saw loaded.
Im not saying peak revs, then drop it in, but what your looking to do is provide full cylinder pressure to seat the rings, so mid rpm, let it start cutting, then 5-8 cuts at full throttle with the saw loaded and keeping rpm around 9500.
Here I am thinking of a 16-20" log size to cut with a 20" bar as an example.
I use 32:1 Castrol 2T, and tune saw to 4 stroke out of the cut and double check with tach etc, just to add flames to the oil threads, but seriously, if you have just installed a new piston and rings, I assume you have assembled it with 2 stroke oil on the piston and rings, and some on the bearings whilst you had access to them.
there is enough residual oil there to take care of lubrication whilst you seat your rings, if you have already measured piston cylinder skirt clearance and squish etc, your good to go.
Avoid unloaded full throttle for at least a tank, unless you really have to test or set max rpm.
T
edited for typos
WO!
Break-in is not just about seating rings, although that's a critical part of it. Break-in of the piston is also important. You need load to seat the rings but avoid long extended cuts until that piston is broken in.
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Yeah!!!!
I only deal in cold hard facts.
LoveStihlQuality
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I got a gallon of 40:1 from Tractor Supply. Doesn't pour well. I funneled into old Trufuel quarts. Use mostly for storing 2 cycle but use it in winter leaf blower to blow snow of vehicles and drive etc. I read a suggestion to use Coleman camp fuel nozzle on the gallon cans.
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D
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Curious, is it an actual gallon? All the ones around here look like gallon cans but if you read the label, they aren’t. Works out cheaper here to buy it by the actual quart cans.
LoveStihlQuality
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D
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The ones around here are 118 oz, the can visually looks like a gallon, that’s why I asked. Probably a trial experiment and we’re the rats.
Eric howes
ArboristSite Operative
I have built lots of 2 stroke engines just not many chainsaws. With snowmobile or dirtbikes engines you try not to hold one consistent rpms. You want to run the engine back and forth through the entire rpms with several heat cycles to seat the rings correctly. Chainsaws seem little different
chadihman
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Use non synthetic oil. 40:1 Avoid high rpms with no load. Run it hard lugging the engine for a long cut of about 30 seconds or more then idle for a minute. repeat this a bunch of times. Pulling the engine hard pushes more pressure on top of the piston. The pressure slips past the piston and to the inside of the ring and pushes the ring tighter against the cylinder. High rpms with no load could possibly glaze the rings and prevent them from seating.
