Best felling wedges

[Engineeringnerd]

*** originally posted in Arborist 101 and suggested to move to this forum ***

I'd like to purchase a good assortment of felling wedges. I already have a few cheap 8" and 10" plastic single tapers. I am considering purchasing a few K&H Triple Tapers. I'm concerned the aggressive "ramp" will tend to sink into the wood versus lifting the tree or shoot back out at me.

In brief, what are the advantages and disadvantages of a triple versus a double, versus a single taper in real use and do they reduce the need for stacking wedges? Can you safely stack triple tapers if necessary?

I mainly cut oak, maple, pine, and sweetgum.

 

[smokechase II]

metal wedges

"the primary reason metal wedges were outlawed was mostly because of how steel ones would have bits of metal shoot off and often do eye damage. Of course cutting with a saw is part of it too.
There was an account on this site where ART from California had a hunk of steel in his brow from 52 years ago.
I do use magnesium ones on occasion, with safety glasses of course, wedge heads in good condition, good green hinge wood. I love the way they lift.
Bailey’s disclaimer for their steel head wedges is, “Be sure you are wearing safety glasses when driving these wedges."

Be cautious with the metal ones. This was part of a post I did several months ago.

I like have a metal one or two to use because they lift so powerfully. Much better than plastic. But eye loss and facial scarring are big deals.

You can do a search and find plenty of good advice here.

 

[John Ellison]

I would do like you mentioned and buy an assortment of them. You will use them sooner or later and figure out what you like best.
Kind of like saws and trucks, some like this and some like that.
Never heard of a triple taper. Double taper is also the name of a wedge maker. They call them double lift. I like 10'' single lift for most of what I do. 12" are better if you have many large trees. Two single lift wedges stacked will move a tree a long ways, very seldom will you need more.
The only double lift wedges that I tried were also extra wide at the tip, so they were a pain getting in and out of my wedge pouch and I did'nt like them.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

John, "triple taper" is a model of G&H wedges. They're in Bailey's. I use the single taper design myself. I think the single tapers lift better anyway.

 

[Kiwilogger]

In NZ, tree fellers MUST carry 5 wedges. All mine would be 10 inch stihl wedges. Sorry, dunno what ya mean by double and single taper?

Don't buy cheap ones.

 

[Ekka]

Can some-one put a pic of the single, double and triple all next to each other so we can see what ya on about?

 

[Engineeringnerd]

Pictures of single, double, triple taper wedges

Guys,

I've attached a picture showing three different wedges. The one at the top is a 10" "single taper" (note it is the thinnest). Center wedge is an 8" "double taper", essentially twice the angle of a single taper. Bottom wedge is a 10" K&H "triple taper". Note on this triple taper the wedge angle changes as you progress towards the butt of the wedge.

I believe the theory is that it's easy to set, and if you need more lift you just continue driving it in to the larger angle instead of stacking.

I bought the triple from Baileys, maybe someone on the site represents them and can answer.

 

[Ryan Willock]

I like the K&H 10'' triple tapers because they are easier to drive. I have to disagree on the lack of lifting ability of these wedges as I've used the single taper and the double taper. Smoke, that may be a different story out there where you are. I've tried just about all the wedges on the market over the years including the stihl and husky wedges, in fact I'm almost sure that the stihl wedges are made by K and H, and for me the K&H were the easest to drive and lifted very well and lasted the longest (stihl had the same results but cost more). The hard head wedges are also good. The only problem that I have with the triple tapers is if you have to stack them that can be a pain unless you are famillar with the techneiq of boring slits on top of one another to stack them. Personally if I know its going to be a pain to wedge then I either put a skidder on it or dozer or I just domino it. I know that wasn't what you're looking for but that works for production logging.

 

[Ekka]

I like the centre one, that's the type (or angle) that I use most but in Aluminium.

I can see the angle change of the bottom one, could be handy. But it would be buried a fair way before the triple tapered part comes into play.

 

[Ryan Willock]

Ekka, you wouldn't believe how easy they drive though.

 

[treetopper]

I prefer the rifled wedges from Bailey's. The ridges keep the wedge running straight into the cut. I can stack them and the ridges and grooves lock together so the wedges don't spit out of the cut so easy.

dave

 

[JohnH]

I use K&H 8"and10" they work pretty good for me.

 

[Oregon Engineer]

How many use wedges with "holding lugs"? The "holding lug" is usually a small projection above the surface of the wedge to prevent the wedge from spitting out of the cut.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

How many use wedges with "holding lugs"? The "holding lug" is usually a small projection above the surface of the wedge to prevent the wedge from spitting out of the cut.

A couple of my smaller ones happen to have them. But that's just because they came with them. I don't specifically look for them. They seem to work OK, but I've never thought to myself that I had to have them.

 

[GASoline71]

John, "triple taper" is a model of G&H wedges. They're in Bailey's. I use the single taper design myself. I think the single tapers lift better anyway.

I use single tapers as well. I was lookin' at the "rifled" wedges in Bailey's. Apparently they claim the rifled wedge drives in straighter, and can be stacked easier. Never used one myself. Has anybody used these kind?

Gary

 

[ROLLACOSTA]

I use stihl hi-lift,and love them..