Best flush to remove bio-bar oil?

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I presume bio oil is just a fancy name for canola. If this is the case you will find the sealed oil tank should be fine but when the oil is exposed to air over a fairly short period it goes all gummy and sets like sillicon. If you don't clean/flush nose sprockets on bars that are not used regulary the nose sprocket will sieze up and will need a whack on a block of wood to get moving again. IME using canola is fine but you do need to change your maintanence accordingly. When I first switched to canola I would squirt a bit in a snap lock bag to store sharpened chains.....big mistake!lol It made the chains almost like they had set in concrete after a month or two in the bags. Now chains get a shot of wd-40 instead. Running 10+ worksaws on canola I am yet to have any oil pump or tank problem yet. Canola when in a sealed container stays in liquid form, its when its exposed to air it reacts and turns to jelly first then gets hard like set glue. If I am swapping bars and taking one out or service for a period, its gets a scrub with soapy warm water after a blast from the air compresser or water hose. Greasing nose bearings becomes a really good idea when running canola. Having said all this, if you use a saw everyday you will likey not notice any issues, canola has its pitfalls but as bar oil it has many advantages over petrolium oil.
 
Kerosine, deasel ,etc. , then run some non bio oil through it if the saw is going to sit for a while. I used paint thinner(less smell) and ATF after the "great corn oil experiment" and the "most excellent fryer fat experiment", no problems. If the bio oil has polimerized and is thick then warming up the solvent will help, as will warming up the varnish.

A solvent such as acetone can be used however it can damage the paint surface of the saw, inside the tank surface finish and if left to long the paper gasket. Do not recommend warming up acetone, read warning label. Gets serious fast.
 
What are the many advantages of canola oil? As an occasional saw user it sounds like a PITA.


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Main advantages-
Used to be cheap. Not sure anymore.
Cleans up easily while fresh, came out of clothes in the wash much better, no oilly residue in washer tub, less transference however it seemed to promote mold growth when combined with saw dust unless cleaned quickly.
In theory does not cause the skin conditions, eye or respatory issues that petro does, this going to depend on the person. I use Canola as a hand cleaner before washing with soap(Dawn) and no longer use products like Goop or the Orange stuff. Reduced winter time hand skin issues, cracking/bleeding.
Considered safer for use around water ways and food. Degrades fast.
Not a petrolium product.
Renewable resource, if you like those types of things.

Main drawbacks-
Polimerized.
Promoted mold.
Not as good with a hard tip bar.
Increased consumption(as much as 30%) which needs to factor into cost. Situation dependent.
Increased maintenance.
Consumer food grade froze solid in winter, stored in unheated space.
Smells like Canola oil, fishy.

The few branded bio bar oils I tried were not worth the extra $ over Canola for me.
 
Found a recent special here at just under NZ$3/L. That's the cheapest I have ever seen it.
It is a superb lubricant. My bars generally run cooler with canola than any other oil I have tried.
Made the mistake of leaving it in a saw that didn't get used for about 6 months. Gummy mess.
 
Don't use Acetone. Not only is it explosive, It will desolve paint. But it will damage plastics, and evaporate rubber parts. I flushed my kerosene, Then filled it with Stihl Woodcutter's Bar And Chain oil. Then ran a tank full out.The goo got soft and wiped it off with a rag. Followed that up with a spray of WD40 and a good wipe down. This was after the second time I tried the Bio Based goo. The first time trying to clean that mess up was a adventure. I should have learned the first time.
 
Thanks for replies. Have only used the bio-oil in two of my saws, the top handle in my orchard and my milling saw saw so I can use the dust for mulch on trees and berries.

The little saw got so junked up had to pry the chain off the bar with a screwdriver. Tried all kinds of stuff on the exterior and automotive degreaser worked better than anything else. Milling saw was not such a problem as almost all the oil gets slung away.

Might give canola a try if price is right
 
I have used canola oil on and off since about 2007. Even did a 2 year test with canola oil and a canola bar oil mix in the garage. It didn't congeal. I have only used pure canola oil as the other vegetable oils cause the problems.
There's a lot of misconception here. As Ray states, it's the other vegetable oils that cause problems. It's bio oil (containing 95% canola plus 5% additives) that cause problems too due to the used additives.
But in my experience canola that has been used in the fryer is causing problems too.
Cold pressed rapeseed oil or Canola (brand name) is the very best product to use as bar oil.
The lubricating is good and wear on bar and chain is less than when you use mineral oil.

Wolter
 
I've used straight canola and rapeseed for 7 years without any problems at all. I think the clean up is easier, with less mess. It seems to lubricate just fine, even in big ported saws on long bars. The only problem is it flows better than most mineral. So it likely works better on newer oil stingy set ups. My old 281xp just bleeds the stuff everywhere if the pump is set to full blast. It will nearly empty the oil as fast as it gulps fuel, and she is a very very thirsty saw.
 
Currently seems to be around $6.00 a gallon for Canola, so zero cost advantage over cheap petro bar oil.
 
What are the many advantages of canola oil? As an occasional saw user it sounds like a PITA.


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When I am in a backyard and spill some bar oil (canola) the resident dog comes almost instantly to lick up evey last drop. IDK if that has anything to do with it being ex-fryer oil that smells like chips but they love it. If it gets on your hands you can just rub it into your leather gloves. Here petroleum purpose bar oil is around $8-$15 per litre, canola is $1-$2. In backyard jobs I often polesaw/TH saw above ponds with fish in them and plant life, they respond better to canola than petroleum (but you get funky swirly multi-colors in the water with petrol stuff). Also many people run water tanks sourced from rainwater collected by their roofs, often I cut above houses to stop leaves/sticks filling up gutters and rusting them. Canola is safe for this. Canola was originally designed as a metal lubricant due to its properties. After running it for over 5 years, I have yet to have a failure other than bar nose sprockets seizing due to inexperience using canola. In that time I have saved many $$$ enough to buy some new replacement prosaws. No more skin irritation after having petroleum stuff soaked into your clothes/gloves at work all day. Cutting wood smells like eating chips instead of spraying petroleum oil everywhere all day breathing it in.
 
(Re CR888 )
I see the benefits now.
I used to think about how the bar oil might affect the taste of the meat on my big cholesterol-machine,(smoker), but figured it was negligible, considering the cholesterol and creosote was probably more of a concern.
That dog that licked up the old fry oil probably wasn't constipated for a few days after that. Lol

I have respect for you successful tree guys. You must have to have a zillion things going on inside your heads when you bid jobs. You have to factor in insurance, equipment, labor, matenance, fuel, where to dispose of the haul away, location, and constantly changing weather. Not to mention who's going to call in sick that day, scheduling, and all while beating the other guys' bids at the same time.

Then some goober head comes in a low balls a bid, and you have to convince the customer to use you, and not "Jimmy the crackhead", who goes down and rents a man lift and has no insurance. I wouldn't be surprised if he DID get hurt, that he might try to sue the homeowner.
I heard a statistic at a Stihl training center that 70% of the entire worlds lawsuits are in the United States.IMG_1650.jpg
 
DO you have a top secret supplier or is NZ getting ripped again? NZ$2.6/L for canola near its best before date is the best I have ever seen here.
Supermarket 4lt containers on sale $4-$6. I don't care if its a 'home brand' or not. But my MIL lives close and has an inbuild kitchen fryer so when I am there for dinner or whatever I drain and filter the fryer oil and replace it with new fresh stuff. She gets a free oil change and does not worry about what to do with 4lt of used oil. That blue & white cleaning cloth that comes in rolls is what I use to filter it by putting two sheets into a decent size funnel. Its darker in colour but clean of any debris. I often bring home wood to process into firewood or mill and can use a lot of bar oil up in my backyard doing so. If I did not use canola I think my yard would resemble a toxic waste dump by now!lol I have a lawn and grow tomatoes so I like to minimise contamination. My tomatoes taste good enough as they are, no need for extra flavours:oops:
 
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