Best old & inexpensive truck?

[ropensaddle]

Was that a 1000 down are not going to get much anymore
for a thousand anyway here is my rough truck and it eats
a chevy

It is a forest service 65 f250 4+4 4 speed granny 390 rebuilt
new tires new lock outs, tires. It needs mufflers, and rear springs
but what old truck does not have saggy springs?

I have a 85 one ton dump I would part with for 1000 but even though it runs and drives and is dependable it must be fed oil and
sucks fuel with a 460!

 

[gink595]

Was that a 1000 down are not going to get much anymore
for a thousand anyway here is my rough truck and it eats
a chevy

It is a forest service 65 f250 4+4 4 speed granny 390 rebuilt
new tires new lock outs, tires. It needs mufflers, and rear springs
but what old truck does not have saggy springs?

I have a 85 one ton dump I would part with for 1000 but even though it runs and drives and is dependable it must be fed oil and
sucks fuel with a 460!

OHHHHH, Ol' Highboy Must be nice. Not many of those things around. 390 is a helluva motor!!

 

[buckwheat]

Also keep in mind that these older trucks are usually exempt from emissions standards.

I have a friend who is my inspection mechanic...as long as I'm not putting "road miles" on my firewood truck, he usually just does a "lick-em stick-em" check for me each year.

 

[Patrick62]

My $0.02 worth

With the budget of about $1000, already mentioned that the "ultimate" wood hauler aint gonna be easy to find.

In regards to the heavy iron mentioned, what is the biggest difference between Ford/Chev/Dodge ??? Other than "personal preference", it is the engine.
All three use the same basic transmissions, axles, etc.

What it really amounts to is:
If it is working for you, and you ain't fixing it everyday, than it is great.

Is 4wheel needed? Probably not, most of the time. I hauled bunches of wood with a 2wheel drive and a granny tranny. However! Now that I have 4wheel, I find it is easier on the truck (and me) to use the lower gears, and extra traction.

What would I be looking for in this situation, would be a heavy half, or a 3/4 ton truck. Mostly look for something that will require the minimum attention before it is ready to work.

My current preference in trucks?? Dodge.

-Pat

 

[max2cam]

If you're going to climb any hills or drive through mud or sand, I'd try to find a 4WD. I'm going thru that agony right now with my "modest" hill and my 2WD '71 Chevy 1/2 ton. Even with tire chains on it I still NEED 4WD and wish my truck had it!

 

[ropensaddle]

OHHHHH, Ol' Highboy Must be nice. Not many of those things around. 390 is a helluva motor!!

Yes it is ,a 390 is a bad boy they were talked about bad for
many years but FE blocks are bad to the bone especially if opened
up with a victor intake! The big engines were choked down too
much I may soup it up but its already a 2dollar pistil

 

[ropensaddle]

With the budget of about $1000, already mentioned that the "ultimate" wood hauler aint gonna be easy to find.

In regards to the heavy iron mentioned, what is the biggest difference between Ford/Chev/Dodge ??? Other than "personal preference", it is the engine.
All three use the same basic transmissions, axles, etc.

What it really amounts to is:
If it is working for you, and you ain't fixing it everyday, than it is great.

Is 4wheel needed? Probably not, most of the time. I hauled bunches of wood with a 2wheel drive and a granny tranny. However! Now that I have 4wheel, I find it is easier on the truck (and me) to use the lower gears, and extra traction.

What would I be looking for in this situation, would be a heavy half, or a 3/4 ton truck. Mostly look for something that will require the minimum attention before it is ready to work.

My current preference in trucks?? Dodge.

-Pat

I don't agree with you rear ends are way different and make the truck. Too many differences to begin talking about.Transmissions are also different and true granny's are not synchronized and are not for downshifting.I have three in good shape! I also have 3 c6 automatics in working shape they were tough autos! I liked turbo 400 in chevy but their rear ends were glass, good motors! Rears make the truck I had a motor that was a 428scj and ran like a scalded dog in one ranchero put in a different car was a snail comparatively, ratios and limited slip or traction lock Etc so many different applications!

 

[Patrick62]

Another $0.02 worth

I don't agree with you rear ends are way different and make the truck. Too many differences to begin talking about.Transmissions are also different and true granny's are not synchronized and are not for downshifting.I have three in good shape! I also have 3 c6 automatics in working shape they were tough autos! I liked turbo 400 in chevy but their rear ends were glass, good motors! Rears make the truck I had a motor that was a 428scj and ran like a scalded dog in one ranchero put in a different car was a snail comparatively, ratios and limited slip or traction lock Etc so many different applications!

In half ton, the Fords have the strongest with their corporate 9" (beast)
Dodge with either the 8.75, or later 9.25 is also very respectable.
Chevy... weakest with the 12 bolt, and later 10 bolt.... but still servicable if care is exercised.

In 3/4 ton stuff, you won't find a "bad" axle in the rear! The Dana 60 is in most of them, with Chevy also using a 14 bolt.... I have had well over 3 tons on my D60 a few times. It survived.

Front axle 1/2 and 3/4 all used at one time or another Dana 44's Sometimes you will find a Dana 60 up there. Brutal!!!

gearing: for hauling we need the lowest gear that still allows something in the way of miles per gallon. My K10 has 3.07 (pathetic for pulling). The W200 dump truck has 4.10 and you would think that is low enough! I could use lower gears, but will live with what I have.

Lockers? Limited slips, Leave that to the dedicated off road enthusiast. With the weight we carry traction is rarely a issue.

Automatics? Add a LARGE cooler if you gonna work one hard. I prefer my 4 speeds.
NP435, SM465, T18/19, SM420 (ancient), T98, are what you are going to find. Some have quirks, but all have some sort of a "granny gear".

-Pat

 

[chowdozer]

dang...this is kicking! Thanks again to all!

The truck will be strictly for working. Main job will be hauling wood but will also use it to pick up building supplies from the hardware store.

My daily 'commuter' is a 1981 Kawasaki KZ750 with a Toyota Corolla as a backup.

I think it would be smart for me to get a truck that a lot of people know inside and out so that, should the need arise, I'll be able to get help. With all of the people here that seem to like these old GMs, I bet there is a forum somewhere on the net dedicated completely to them.

So, when looking for these how do sellers usually list them? Do they just say for example: "1979 3/4 ton GM" or is there a marketing name that is more common?

Edit: Are the wheat trucks fairly easy to work on? Are parts readily available and inexpensive as well?

Ok, a little about tires and wheels too.

From 73 to probably the early 80's, GM's had 16.5" wheels. Barf. The pickups in the 60's had split rims. Split rims are dangerous if not installed correctly. It got to the point where many tire shops refused to work on them. You won't see them much anymore, but the replacement for the split rim was the 16.5" wheel.

In addition to the wheel being larger, it was a tubeless design. The worst problem with the 16.5" wheel was it had a 45 degree bead where the sidewall seated. This required extra wire in the tire bead to keep it from popping off the rim. 16.5" tires are more expensive and in most cases a special order item at tire stores now. The industry switched back to a 16" wheel in the 80's, this time tubeless and with a 90 degree bead. Check the trucks you look at, make sure they have 16" wheels. More tread variety, cheaper and usually off the shelf.

Some people are going to disagree with me on this one, but I mention it in the name of safety. Stock Chevrolet or GMC wheels!!! Not Ford wheels, not Dodge wheels. They will fit the lug nut bolt pattern, but you lose the hub centric aspect of the wheel. A pickup wheel fits snug on the hup. This is a load carrying aspect of the wheel! Ford and Dodge wheels have a larger center hole in the wheel. They do not fit a Chevy hub snug. Bad.

Check the truck you're looking at and make sure the wheel fits snug on the hub. A stock GM 16" steel wheel is good for 3000 pounds, about the same as a load range E tire. And use load range E tires too.

I mention this because as a wood hauler, I know you are going to load that thing a little heavier each time you cut. Don't take your chances.

 

[gink595]

Yes it is ,a 390 is a bad boy they were talked about bad for
many years but FE blocks are bad to the bone especially if opened
up with a victor intake! The big engines were choked down too
much I may soup it up but its already a 2dollar pistil

Well the FE (-)(427&-428)series motors like any thing else ford makes, The engines start life in their cars and as they phase the motors out they put them in the trucks and change the torque curve, which kinda sucks.
Now if they did put the 352HO and 390 Galaxy 500 motors in the truck line that = lots more fun. My old man used to build alot of FE and 385 series motors, he used to work at Ford in dearborn,Mi. We have a lot of special tools(cam bearing Install/puller, main seal presses etc...) that have FoMoCo stamped on them, most for the FE.

 

[Patrick62]

Hub centric, lug centric, egg centric

Run what you got. I have run them both ways. Basic rule is to keep them tight!

Agreed, 16.5's suck. 16" standard rims are fine.

Split rims (Budd's) should be avoided, however.....
Have you ever met a "stronger" wheel????
back in the day of 12 ply TRUCK tires, it would have taken 3 strong monkeys, 2 elephants, squad of cheer leaders, and divine assistance to work one over a conventional rim. Hence the reasoning for a split rim.

Have you ever changed a tire on a split?? Last one I did took about 2 hours...
I aired it up with a 100 ft. hose... just in case.

-pat :monkey:

 

[doubletodd]

If you're going to climb any hills or drive through mud or sand, I'd try to find a 4WD. I'm going thru that agony right now with my "modest" hill and my 2WD '71 Chevy 1/2 ton. Even with tire chains on it I still NEED 4WD and wish my truck had it!

I'm building a 70 3/4 4x4 for a hauler .I love those trucks I'm hoping to have duals and a dump bed on it when I'm done

 

[jjett84724]

I bought this pick-up for $800. Its 3/4 ton, with an automatic transmission. It runs like a champ and is 4 wheel drive. I spent two days looking in the online classifieds. There were three or four trucks similar to this one. This one was about two hundred miles from my house and the owner met me half way.
I bought a set of tires and wheels off of craigslist for $125. When I took the tires down to be mounted on my truck at a local tire shop the owner of the shop wanted the rims. I traded him the rims for two new tires and put those on the back of the truck. Built a couple racks with 2x4's that were laying around.

So total cash expended was $925. I have hauled wood with it and its a dream.


Take your time and spend a day or two before parting with your hard earned cash. You can find a deal if your patient. Good Luck.
Post pics when you find the one you want.

 

[streeter]

dang...this is kicking! Thanks again to all!


So, when looking for these how do sellers usually list them? Do they just say for example: "1979 3/4 ton GM" or is there a marketing name that is more common?

QUOTE]

I would look for atleast a 3/4 ton Period. Reason being the more you can stack in the truck the cheaper the trip and with gas prices:jawdrop:

Becareful of 3/4 tons tho as there are 2 types of 3/4 ton, those with full floating axles and semi floating axles. Semi floating axles are basically light duty (ford 9", 8.75" Chevy 10 & 12 bolt, Dodge 9.75" and some dana 60's). Fullfloaters are Ford sterling axles, chevy corporate 14 and dodge dana 60,70,80. You can tell the differance by looking at the rear tires if the wheels mount flush with rim it is a semi floater and weaker a full floater the center of the rear wheels stick out @5" kindof like a front 4x4 hubs sticking out.

You want a full floater because you have 2 bearings instead of 1, if you break an axle you are not on a wild ride to the side of the road.

 

[046]

craigslist is your friend... deals pop up and are going pretty quick!

it's going to be really hard to find... but can be done.

best used truck for low $$ is a 12valve cummins dodge. 88-97
maybe not $1000, but $4k is doable..

 

[InTheFlow]

Once again, thanks a bunch ya'll!

I'm watching craigslist and have looked in the local freebie papers too. So far, no luck but I'm not in a super rush or anything.

Based on the advise everyone has shared, I've decided on getting a GM/Chevy from the 73-87 year range keeping in mind that the 16" wheels are what I want. I'll go with a Ford if I can't find a worthy GM/Chevy.

Around here there seem to be more Fords so who knows.

 

[gink595]

Around here there seem to be more Fords so who knows.

There is a Strong reason for that!!!!!

 

[nytreeman]

Was that a 1000 down are not going to get much anymore
for a thousand anyway here is my rough truck and it eats
a chevy

It is a forest service 65 f250 4+4 4 speed granny 390 rebuilt
new tires new lock outs, tires. It needs mufflers, and rear springs
but what old truck does not have saggy springs?

I have a 85 one ton dump I would part with for 1000 but even though it runs and drives and is dependable it must be fed oil and
sucks fuel with a 460!

nice ole 65 Rope!!!

 

[nytreeman]

You can find old 73-79 ford trucks around that range, they were decent trucks, 1/2 & 3/4 tons had dana 44 front axles with the tough ford 9" rears or dana 60. 1 tons had Dana 60 F&R. New process gear drive transfer cases. Power plants 300 straight six, 302,351M-400M or 460 motors any of them are good motors, all rough on fuel mileage. I think these old trucks are a great wood haulers for the the price they bring.

Damn straight,tough!!!,used to have all newer chevys,but now all I have now are old Fords,all I've found and restored, I do all my own repairs maintenance,
pre emissions so they are relatively simple to work on,and they run every day with little trouble,other than they do burn gas,but so does any big block 8 banger

 

[nytreeman]

Just frame off restored My 1969 f-350 dually,wood/chip dump,10,000 gvw,390 FE, np 435 4spd,full floating Dana 70 rear with .456 gears, top end speed is about 65-70 but she'll pull any hill loaded,and tow my chipper,or trailer loaded weighing another 6000 lbs.Granted I have ALOT more than a grand in it but I paid 200.00 for it originally put a cpl grand into it and a dump.Worked it 6 years and now it's been gone through front to rear,for under $3,000 and a sh!t load of work and is by far the best truck Ive ever owned