MS460WOODCHUCK
Addicted to ArboristSite
And a pain in your back...and if it's not yet give it time. Besides that all of my 460's would out run my 660's with 20'' set up anyhow.
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Best Stihl for running 20" Bar
- Thread starter trl91
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And a pain in your back...and if it's not yet give it time. Besides that all of my 460's would out run my 660's with 20'' set up anyhow.
bigbluram
master of destruction
2 lbs more is all it wieght diff there is and the log holds most of the wieght of the saw in the cut, sure hope your not that weak and running high powered saws ! Will your 460 pull a 9 or 10 pin rim ? My 660 will !!
A 660 is a nice saw but it's overkill for a 20 inch bar IMO.
bigbluram
master of destruction
Very true that's why I just do it for fun every once in a while. If all I need is a 20" or less I just grab my 260, plenty fast for real world use and super light compared to 70-90 cc saws
036
Well, I'm going to take all the information you guys gave me and then go handle all those suggested saws. Regarding both stihl and husky, would you say I should be paying MSRP, lower, higher? Not really looking for specific price but would like to have an idea so I'm not getting suckered on a crappy price.
Please tell me more, how are the US and non US cylinder's different ?
First of all, find a good/reputable dealer; that way if you have to pay MSRP, it is money well spent. Second, I see no reason to pay over MSRP. Third, there is not a lot of mark-up in saws and the dealer has to make a living so there is nothing wrong with paying MSRP to support your dealer-IMO. Fourth, if you want a discount, ask for one. The dealer might knock off 5-10% (not uncommon), or may throw in an extra chain, pair of gloves, safety glasses. They may or may not but you will never know if you don't ask. Good luck and we want pics when you make your decision.
Nonprophet
ArboristSite Operative
Other than supporting your local dealer, I don't see much point in buying a new saw. Buying used will usually save you at least 50% off MSRP. For example, I bought my Husky 55 off of Craigslist 5 years ago for $165. It was in great shape, and other than a few new chains and a couple of sparkplugs it hasn't cost me hardly anything to run, and, other than when I put bad gas in it 
bang it starts up 2nd or 3rd pull e v e r y single time.....
bang it starts up 2nd or 3rd pull e v e r y single time.....
origionalrebel
ArboristSite Operative
jmho
if you've run these pro saws you will be sorely disappointed after buying a homeowner saw.
just sayin................
Dr. Hackemoff
ArboristSite Operative
Maybe I missed it in other posts, but what kind of shape are you in? I've run Stihls the past ten years, from an MS 170 to MS 660. Great saws. But my fingers and elbows now can't handle more than one tankful in the 660, so I gave it to my kids and bought a Husky 562 (it was a tough decision between it and the Stihl 362, local dealer sells both brands). It's still sitting in my living room waiting for the snow to melt in the grove, so I don't have cutting experience with it yet.
I didn't see vibration stats (lower means smoother) on the Stihl site so here are some Husky numbers for comparison. I assume Stihl numbers are similar for low/high end models.
460, $479, 3.6 hp, 12.8 lbs, vib 4.9 front, vib 4.3 rear
562xp, $739, 4.7 hp, 12.5 lbs, vib 2.7 front, vib 3.2 rear
Looking at the vibration numbers, that 562 should run as smooth as glass with fast cutting. I'm sure my hands and joints will thank me for that. Anyway, just more food for thought, good luck shopping and happy cutting.
New 562xp Used 036 or 036pro
Just my opinion.
Just bought an 036 for 1/2 the cost of a 562xp new and I cut side by side with my buddy and his new ms290 - no comparison.
We both are just firewood hoarders that heat with wood - weekend wariors and my saws rarely run in the summer. For the work we do the 290 is plenty but it sure is nice to have all that power available. I feel fortunate to have the saw I have and to have purchased it from a member of this site that lives in my home town and who gratiously offered to keep it tuned and help me when I need. I am saw "ignorant" and would like to keep from becoming saw "arrogant"
Just my opinion.
Just bought an 036 for 1/2 the cost of a 562xp new and I cut side by side with my buddy and his new ms290 - no comparison.
We both are just firewood hoarders that heat with wood - weekend wariors and my saws rarely run in the summer. For the work we do the 290 is plenty but it sure is nice to have all that power available. I feel fortunate to have the saw I have and to have purchased it from a member of this site that lives in my home town and who gratiously offered to keep it tuned and help me when I need. I am saw "ignorant" and would like to keep from becoming saw "arrogant"
qbilder
ArboristSite Guru
A 290 or 391 either will EASILY fell any 15-20" hardwood trees that grow in north America. Either saw will EASILY fill the bed of your truck with firewood. My old man ran an 025 for 20yrs. cutting about 10-20 cords of firewood every fall. It had some minor issues this past fall (plugged oiler) so he wasn't able to cut. Not knowing how serious the issue was and worried about mom & dad staying warm this winter, I bought him a new 290 & he was happy as could be because it cut so much easier & faster than his 025. He fixed the 025 but doesn't use it. I figured if an 025 lasted that long & was still going strong, the 029 is the last saw he'll ever need. Since I bought it in September, he has cut his firewood and then cleared timber in a narrow ravine to make a pond. Most timber he cut in the ravine was red & white oak, with a mix of other hardwoods, all about 20" avg. That old man doesn't care about pro vs. homeowner. He only cares about the saw doing it's job. Either it cuts or it doesn't. "Keep sharp, well oiled chains, and fresh gas" is what he says is the key to a saw lasting a long time. He's in his mid sixties, has agent orange arthritic issues and gout, but still works hard. He enjoys it. What he loves about the 290 is the weight. He says compared to his 025, it's like a cadillac. The weight makes the cut so he doesn't have to push it.
Point being, he's not a pro. He's a homeowner that lives in a cabin deep in the Appalachian woods. His saws are homeowner saws, and do everything he needs, when he needs, without trouble. A 290 is overkill for him, so a pro 60+cc saw would be ridiculous overkill. The old man built the cabin he lives in with that old 025, plus all the wood that heats it up until this past fall. He isn't racing his saws or seeing how fast they are, not porting them or modding, not making youtube videos of how awesome his tinkering skills are. He cuts firewood & other misc. property management things. A faster saw for him only means his chores are done quicker, which means more time with his beagles chasing bunnies. For a non-pro, non-tinkerer, a homeowner saw is perfect. Any idiot will kill a saw regardless of it's class.
Point being, he's not a pro. He's a homeowner that lives in a cabin deep in the Appalachian woods. His saws are homeowner saws, and do everything he needs, when he needs, without trouble. A 290 is overkill for him, so a pro 60+cc saw would be ridiculous overkill. The old man built the cabin he lives in with that old 025, plus all the wood that heats it up until this past fall. He isn't racing his saws or seeing how fast they are, not porting them or modding, not making youtube videos of how awesome his tinkering skills are. He cuts firewood & other misc. property management things. A faster saw for him only means his chores are done quicker, which means more time with his beagles chasing bunnies. For a non-pro, non-tinkerer, a homeowner saw is perfect. Any idiot will kill a saw regardless of it's class.
In my experience, Stihl dealers don't move off of suggested retail price for new saws. They may offer a few goodies (few bottles of 2-cycle mix, hat, half-price carry case, etc.) but never a price discount on new saws.
My Husqvarna dealer willl move a little bit.
Philip Wheelock
Finis Origine Pendet
My experience as well. Dealer tossed in a couple of chains, but that was about it. Excellent advice, responsiveness and free tuneup following the sale: priceless...
Warped5
WingNut
The one you trade in at the Husky dealer to get a 346XP that you're going to do an MM on.
Other than supporting your local dealer, I don't see much point in buying a new saw. Buying used will usually save you at least 50% off MSRP. For example, I bought my Husky 55 off of Craigslist 5 years ago for $165. It was in great shape, and other than a few new chains and a couple of sparkplugs it hasn't cost me hardly anything to run, and, other than when I put bad gas in it
I agree. Most of mine were bought used. If I were the thread starter I would by the Husky 357 from nmurph in the trading post. Looks like a nice saw for a fair price. I want to buy it even though I don't need it.
60cc saws are the ticket for 20" bars imo. If you want to push it and plan on cutting soft wood, a pro 50cc could do, kind off. I'd prefer to take it to the 70cc tho, that's about where it becomes fun and they aren't that much heavier than the 60ccers.
SawTroll
Information Collector
60cc saws are the ticket for 20" bars imo. If you want to push it and plan on cutting soft wood, a pro 50cc could do, kind off. I'd prefer to take it to the 70cc tho, that's about where it becomes fun and they aren't that much heavier than the 60ccers.
I don't like 20" bars on light 60cc saws, but it is about balance, not so much about power. 20" bars are for 70cc saws, imo, except in a pinch.
