Best way to clean up a cylinder?

[Jbaker]

I was given a husqvarna 55 that had been straight gassed and has quite a bit of aluminum deposit on the cylinder walls. What is the best way to remove this deposit and keep from damaging the plating? Once cleaned up how can you tell if the cylinder is still good or needs to be replaced? Thanks for your help

 

[Bieber]

Aluminum deposit? ...something like corroded aluminum?

 

[kmcinms]

Muratic acid

Warm the cylinder before you apply it with a q-tip. Keep it off of anything you don't want ruined. Go back with cold water rinse to neutralize the acid. Go with 320 wet/dry paper to clean up the spots. It takes a few applications to get it all off. Post a pic of the cylinder. there are more than a few threads on this.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/229682.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/219362.htm

 

[cmarti]

I cleaned a couple straight gas cylinders up with oven cleaner and scotchbrite. Was pleasantly surprised. I have never done the muratic acid, but that appears to be the preferred method here.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I use a small amount of acid in a shot glass to minimize the vapors from a larger container getting into the surrounding area, primarily due to the fact that it'll rust stuff almost right before your eyes, and ya don't really wanna be breathing it.

Don't re-use/re-dip the same q-tip after it's been swabbed around on the aluminum because it will contaminate your container of clean acid and make it much less effective for additional applications.

Also, water with baking soda is the best neutralizer if you get acid where you don't want it.

If it's a heavy duty job and there's aluminum transfer all around the ports or transfers, smear petroleum jelly into those areas to keep the acid outta there.

And don't use acid where you may suspect (or see) pitting in the cylinder. It'll just make it worse and probably kill any chance of restoring the cylinder.

Do this in a well ventilated area. The fumes from the container are bad enuff, but the fumes from the acid reacting with the aluminum are worse.

When your're finished, wipe it down with a Scotch-Brite pad real well and wash it in soapy water with a bottle brush or sponge and rinse it like crazy.

Good luck.

 

[tbilz]

When you get the aluminum transfer off enough to satisfy you...run the edge of your fingernail across the lines that are left over.

If it slides over without catching in the lines you should be good to go with a new piston and rings.

If your fingernail catches, more than likely the jug is toast and the rings wont seat correctly and you will have reduced compression.

 

[half_full]

also be sure you know what cylinder you have. It's very unlikely that you have a closed port 55. If you do, finding a piston may be more expensive than an after market top end.

This link is to pics of a closed port

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/129040.htm#post2102063

 

[Jbaker]

View attachment 281512View attachment 281514
I tried to clean it up as good as I can. I can run my nail across the inside and it seems almost perfectly smooth. What do you guys think?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

What do you guys think?

Based on those pics, I'd run it...after I replaced the intake boot, impulse nipple, and was sure there weren't any air leaks that were the actual cause of the problem vs. "straight gassed".

Those items/areas are known issues with these saws.

Actually after a second look, I think I'd put a little more effort into the area above the ports.But that's just me.

 

[Woody912]

Just did a Stihl 036 Pro, used a medicine dropper instead of Q tip. Cylinder had one bad scratch in it, against advice from a local mechanic I put a piston in it and it runs like a scalded dog, about 3 gallons of gas thru it so far. First engine rebuild for me so it was a practice. May quit tomorrow but so far, so good. I'm running it a little rich to make sure it is well lubed and switched to synthetic

 

[ChainLightning]

Muriatic acid. Just brush it on the aluminum deposits and keep applying it till smooth. Its is strong enough to eat the aluminum but will not eat the chrome, cast iron, or whatever your cylinder is lined with as long as it does not sit on the liner for extended periods of time. NOTE: DO NOT get it down in any ports or on your hands. It will eat cement and just about anything else. Wash it out with plenty of water, that dilutes it.

 

[diggers_dad]

I use a small amount of acid in a shot glass to minimize the vapors from a larger container getting into the surrounding area, primarily due to the fact that it'll rust stuff almost right before your eyes, and ya don't really wanna be breathing it.

Don't re-use/re-dip the same q-tip after it's been swabbed around on the aluminum because it will contaminate your container of clean acid and make it much less effective for additional applications.

Also, water with baking soda is the best neutralizer if you get acid where you don't want it.

If it's a heavy duty job and there's aluminum transfer all around the ports or transfers, smear petroleum jelly into those areas to keep the acid outta there.

And don't use acid where you may suspect (or see) pitting in the cylinder. It'll just make it worse and probably kill any chance of restoring the cylinder.

Do this in a well ventilated area. The fumes from the container are bad enuff, but the fumes from the acid reacting with the aluminum are worse.

When your're finished, wipe it down with a Scotch-Brite pad real well and wash it in soapy water with a bottle brush or sponge and rinse it like crazy.

Good luck.

I fired a rep shot at ya for that.

dd