Biggest Electric Splitters--That Go VERTICAL?

[BigSix]

Hi all,

I'm working on getting a hold of a used Speeco, but if that falls through, and if I DID decide to buy new, I'd consider an electric model. I don't like the noise, and having to wear earmuffs, when I could be listening to a podcast/talk radio/music. Can anyone make any recommendations for (manufactured) electric splitters that meet these requirements:

1. The largest tonnage available in an electric model.

2. An electric model that will GO VERTICAL.

I have a lot of large rounds, and I need a splitter that will go vertical. And I have only seen small-capacity electric splitters advertised--I believe the largest I have ever heard of was only 12 or 16 ton (I can't remember the brand.)

However, I have found that even a modest-tonnage gas splitter has split every large round of hardwood I've put in it so far--it just takes multiple attempts, sometimes. My gas splitter is small, and is a Sears, which I've recently learned (from posts here) was actually built by Didier, like the one pictured in the link, below. (Somewhere--maybe from the engine code--I was able to date my Sears/Didier to roughly 1981, for any one who's interested).

If anyone (including whichever member this pic came from, that I relabeled a "Sears," but is apparently really a Didier Mfg. model, in John Deere livery) has the tonnage figure for the Didier pictured, I'd really like to know the capacity of that machine because, again, it (barely) had enough power to handle my big rounds.

The (original) 3/4 gallon tank on the Sears/Didier failed due to rust (the original fluid looked like rhubarb pie), and I'm in the middle of adding a new tank, filter mount (it never had one!), suction screen, etc..., but time-constraints force me to put that rebuild on a back burner and, again, the Sears/Didier won't go vertical.

So, who makes the bigger/biggest electric splitters that go vertical?

Thanks!

Big Six

EDIT:
I did find this Ramsplitter (link below), which was the only one I believe I'd ever heard of. I knew just the pump and motor would be louder than one might expect, but still I was kind of disappointed in how loud this guy seemed--I would still be wearing ear muffs, but at least the neighbors wouldn't need to! LOL

I'd appreciate your collective thoughts on the video of the 20 Ton model, and I believe I saw thread(s) in the past from Ramsplitter owners here--I'd love to hear of your experiences.

Ramsplitter
http://www.ramsplitter.com/Electric%20Splitters.htm?gclid=CKLZiJa60aECFcRM5QodVH_yJQ

Video of (or 20?) Ton Model:
http://www.youtube.com/user/MrDougd222#p/a/u/0/cbQPITx7wxM

Note: Video credit (above) states it has "16 tons of ram force", so I'm not sure which model the video is of....

 

[pdhowell]

Electric splitters

Big,

Check the Ramspslitter website.

http://www.ramsplitter.com/Electric Splitters.htm

To my experience, they make quality splitters with a good design, using a box beam instead of H beam, and use welded up triangles to increase strength in the chassis. They basically replace the gas engine with an industrial duty electric motor. They have horizontal, vertical models.

The torque characteristics of an electric motor are an ideal match for a hydraulic pump. My h/v splitter is a little low for my comfortable working height,about 30 inches, but far better than their horizontal model. One thing, you can work the splitter from both sides, because the valve is on top of the cylinder.

My efforts at using the vertical are awkward, but I usually split third growth smaller rounds that I can lift onto the beam.

However, plan on using 230 volt service for the motor. I initially tried the 110 volt configuration, but it drew too much starting current in cold weather. With the 230 volt, go can go out in the coldest winter to split, or make kindling, flick a switch to start and listen to the radio while you work.


Hope this helps

 

[NorthernOntario]

...I'm in the middle of adding a ...filter mount (it never had one!), ....

Sure sounds like a snowblower engine to me. Any why would your sears splitter have a John Deere symbol on the hydraulic cylinder?

 

[boostnut]

Yep, its a Didier. Sears label, John Deere on the cylinder, whatever, its a Didier. I've got one myself and with a little work it will go vertical.

The only way to determine your true current tonnage is to install a pressure gauge and report back.

 

[beerman6]

Buy a gas one and a set of ear muffs with speakers in them.

 

[BigSix]

Big,

Check the Ramspslitter website.

http://www.ramsplitter.com/Electric Splitters.htm

To my experience, they make quality splitters with a good design, using a box beam instead of H beam, and use welded up triangles to increase strength in the chassis. They basically replace the gas engine with an industrial duty electric motor. They have horizontal, vertical models.

The torque characteristics of an electric motor are an ideal match for a hydraulic pump. My h/v splitter is a little low for my comfortable working height,about 30 inches, but far better than their horizontal model. One thing, you can work the splitter from both sides, because the valve is on top of the cylinder.

My efforts at using the vertical are awkward, but I usually split third growth smaller rounds that I can lift onto the beam.

However, plan on using 230 volt service for the motor. I initially tried the 110 volt configuration, but it drew too much starting current in cold weather. With the 230 volt, go can go out in the coldest winter to split, or make kindling, flick a switch to start and listen to the radio while you work.


Hope this helps

pdhowell,

Thank you for sharing your observations and experiences. Yes, I had planned on using the 240V outside service (I have it for my welder, with a 100' 10 ga. cord I made for it, on a 30 amp service).

What model do you have? How long have you had it?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
NorthernOntario,

I thought I might confuse a few people with that. The pic of the "John Deer" splitter (which was really made by Didier, for Sears, John Deere and others) was not mine. It was a pic of another AS member. I used it because my pics of my own (Sears/Didier) splitter are too large to load here. I should have worded it more clearly--sorry 'bout that.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Beerman,

Re: this:

Buy a gas one and a set of ear muffs with speakers in them.

Well...it's not just the noise I'd like to eliminate. I'd like to come in from splitting wood, and not be exhaling carbon distillates and particulates, and every piece of my clothing/hat, etc..., smell of petrochemicals. I'm really wearying of that, personally. So, muffs alone are not emuff, 'er, enough.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Boostnut,

I read your conversion thread--in fact, your Didier may have been the first other one I'd even seen a good pic of. That original hydro tank was like a kid's lunchbox, huh? LOL

I just wanted to say GREAT JOB on your conversion to H/V capability!

Re: tonnage, I was kind of hoping someone who is enthusiastic in math might be tempted to solve the equation for it's (realistically) theoretical ton limit on that little Didier, if I mentioned it. (I don't know the formula and math is not a strong point for me) Any takers? LOL

So...any other electric splitters of reasonable tonnage that go vertical? I thought Wallenstein made one, but I didn't see it on their website.

Big Six

 

[boostnut]

Call these guys, never heard anything but good feedback. Sounds like they will build about anything anybody wants.


http://www.americanmsr.com/

 

[BigSix]

Boostnut,

Now that I'm thinking about going new (electric) I will call the folks at the link y you provided, and see what they say.

Thank you, one and all, for your excellent feedback!

Big Six

 

[BigSix]

My Sears/Didier 5 hp. Splitter

Hey all,

I'm experimenting with photo resizing. This is a pic of my old splitter, before I figured out I had to replace the very rusty, leaking, original (approx.) 3/4 gal. hydro tank. Because I'm looking for a vertical machine (and lack Boostnut's fabbing skills, and time) the repair to this machine is on hold. I've got the filter and mount (it never had either a filter or a suction strainer!) hoses, etc..., but I don't have time right now to get busy with the torch, welder, etc....

Here goes for trying to resize the pic:

EDIT: It works!

Mark--thanks for the link to the photo re-sizer. I actually didn't use it yet, as the G.F. showed me a trick using MS Paint, but I will explore that link at some time, too, as I see it allows all kinds of image customization--most of which is over my head! LOL

 

[BigSix]

Speeco Pics--I Must Have Been Crazy....

Hey all,

I've got some pics of the rental splitter was I interested in buying. I believe this is a 25 ton model, but I haven't called Speeco yet, to learn how to positively I.D. it.

However, when looking at it yesterday, I noticed that the toe plate is bent! I'd like to believe they rented it out and bent it since my first look at the machine, but I kind of doubt that. I'm sure glad I've been reading on these forums, or I might not have noticed the bent toe plate! (Thanks, BlueRidgeMark!)

Anyway, I notice the following problems:

1. Bent toe plate.

2. Bent "log cradle," i.e., one side of the "log strippers" is bent, with a (partially) broken weld.

3. Bent hyd. tank, near where pipe comes out for the filter mount. The paint is cracked due to the tank being distorted, but it's not leaking.

4. Bent "wedge guides"--whatever those rails are that guide the ram's wedge--this machine has the (newer) fly cuts on these rails, at the bottom, near the toe plate, but nevertheless, they are swelled out for the last 18" or more, near the toe plate, which I've learned from reading on AS is caused by compacted chips/splinters that get trapped and compressed, down inside the wedge guide rails.

I'm now thinking my offer of $500. was too high, and this thing is only worth $400. Opinions?

Also, I DOUBT Speeco would send the rental co. a new beam, as it's in commercial duty, and/or may be out of warranty. But then again, I remember someone saying on AS that the Speeco warranty had no exclusions/limitations for commercial usage. In any case, I will call Speeco and see what they say when I ask them if they would send a SECOND OWNER a new beam, under "warranty," but I'm sure the answer will be "No" (probably preceded by laughter?) LOL

Based on the fly cuts mentioned above, or on anything else visible in these pics, I would sure appreciate opinions on the tonnage and year of this machine. The recoil rope seems considerably shorter than normal, but it works and I've changed them before.

I would also appreciate any (revised?) opinions on value, based on these pics. The engine starts on the first pull and runs fine, but I haven't run it long enough for it to get hot, to see if it gets any noisier then.

Lastly, (to Mark and others) I would like opinions on whether or not this would be a PITA to use, with the bent toe plate--I'm wondering if the logs would constantly be trying to slip off of the toe plate, instead of getting split?

Sorry this is so long--hope you like the pics.

And before anyone thinks I'm crazy to even be interested in this machine, please understand that I live in an expensive area where few people burn wood, so the selection of used splitters is VERY slim. Oh yeah--and I'm CHEAP--'er, part Scottish. LOL

Thanks again,

Big Six

 

[boostnut]

If I were in your position I would give $500 for that splitter (so long as they repair the tire issue). Mine has been wearing a bent toe plate for a year or so now, not a big deal, $#!* happens. The tweaked guide rails shouldn't be causing much of a problem. Keep them cleaned out to minimize further damage. If, for some reason, they do effect the operation of the machine have a local weld repair shop look at it. Appears to be just a piece of angle iron welded to the beam. Keep an eye on the hyd tank, if its not leaking than don't let it be a deal breaker. If it is leaking see if you can negotiate the repair into the purchase along with NEW hydraulic fluid since the tank will have to be drained to repair.