blade replaced

[pinecutter]

i just replaced my blade on my Husky 141 cause the last time i used it about 2 weeks ago i noticed the old one was getting dull. I don't do much with it, just cutting 1 to 3 trees a year (pine). As i moved down the tree that fell a couple of days ago, the blade dulled before my eyes, after about 6 cuts, and i couldn't finish the job. I've whacked up approx 10 trees with the old blade and had nothing like this happen. I purchased an Oregon blade from lowes and replaced it myself. Did i just waste my money on a cheap chain or what?
thanks for any insight!!:bang:

 

[forestryworks]

blade?

 

[SawTroll]

It sounds like you are cutting dirt!



Welcome to ArboristSite.

:agree2:


Probably hit the ground - no chains are that bad.......:newbie: error.

 

[SawTroll]

i just replaced my blade on my Husky 141 cause the last time i used it about 2 weeks ago i noticed the old one was getting dull. I don't do much with it, just cutting 1 to 3 trees a year (pine). As i moved down the tree that fell a couple of days ago, the blade dulled before my eyes, after about 6 cuts, and i couldn't finish the job. I've whacked up approx 10 trees with the old blade and had nothing like this happen. I purchased an Oregon blade from lowes and replaced it myself. Did i just waste my money on a cheap chain or what?
thanks for any insight!!:bang:

Did you ever sharpen the original chain - it shouldn't be worn out after that amount of cutting.

 

[scotclayshooter]

You just never know whats in a tree thats going to blunt your chain real quick.
My record is a new chain getting banged up real bad just in the deapth of the bar!
Bloody half inch bolt in the tree end on! A half inch up or down and i would have missed it Grr.

 

[pinecutter]

i know not to hit the ground with my......chain (thank you for the correction), but maybe i did and just didn't realize it. i'll see about resharpening the old one... and apparently the new one too. thanks for the quick responses!!

 

[pinecutter]

Y'all called it! Hit the ground in 4 places out of 12 (that ground contains gravel from the driveway). Lesson learned again.

 

[FATGUY]

see the posts on Timberjacks and Saw Bucks, it might help you keep out of the dirt
btw, welcome

 

[Tree Sling'r]

see the posts on Timberjacks and Saw Bucks, it might help you keep out of the dirt

Proper technique and a sharp bit axe to knock of the bark where it's dirty.

 

[FATGUY]

:agree2:

 

[romeo]

Go to the hardware store and buy some 5/32 round files and start filing

 

[2dogs]

Y'all called it! Hit the ground in 4 places out of 12 (that ground contains gravel from the driveway). Lesson learned again.

Any time you are cutting near civilization you run the risk of nails or worse in the tree. Knock the bark off or use a metal detector. My friend who runs a Lucas mill charges $25.00 per nail hit.

 

[blackoak]

Bars and chains cut much better than blades.

 

[Banshee]

Learn to watch you wood chips coming from the saw. When you get close to the end. Watch for the whiteish color chips to go to brownish color. Means you into the the bark on the bottom and need to stop.

Of you could make a bounch of half cuts then roll the log over and finish the cuts.

 

[ralawler]

When you get about 3/4 way threw the cut drive a wedge in the top and it will usely spit apart before the bar gets close to the ground.

 

[nilzlofgren]

blade?

:agree2: