Blown 661...again

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Guys, Ive done a few 661s before but this one has me a bit baffled. Its a very low time saw that scored the cyl very early on in its use. I got it and put a top end on ( after usual pressure tests ect) and it promptly toasted another top. Dealer would not honor warranty- as usual- claimed 'Bad gas" again as usual. Is there a common malady in the 1144 line that Im missing ? Anybody have similar bad luck with them and a remedy ? the Solenoid was replaced early on prior to 2nd top end scoring
 
Guys, Ive done a few 661s before but this one has me a bit baffled. Its a very low time saw that scored the cyl very early on in its use. I got it and put a top end on ( after usual pressure tests ect) and it promptly toasted another top. Dealer would not honor warranty- as usual- claimed 'Bad gas" again as usual. Is there a common malady in the 1144 line that Im missing ? Anybody have similar bad luck with them and a remedy ? the Solenoid was replaced early on prior to 2nd top end scoring
Scored on both sides, or one side? Who is running this saw? Any pics of the piston?
 
Guys, Ive done a few 661s before but this one has me a bit baffled. Its a very low time saw that scored the cyl very early on in its use. I got it and put a top end on ( after usual pressure tests ect) and it promptly toasted another top. Dealer would not honor warranty- as usual- claimed 'Bad gas" again as usual. Is there a common malady in the 1144 line that Im missing ? Anybody have similar bad luck with them and a remedy ? the Solenoid was replaced early on prior to 2nd top end scoring
They have had a few versions of solenoids and the early ones were lean and caused lots of issues. If it was replaced early on as you say, it could have been replaced with the same version that is lean running?

You say you did a pressure test, did you do a vacuum test and rotate the crank too?
 
They have had a few versions of solenoids and the early ones were lean and caused lots of issues. If it was replaced early on as you say, it could have been replaced with the same version that is lean running?

You say you did a pressure test, did you do a vacuum test and rotate the crank too?
Black ones were first .
 
They have had a few versions of solenoids and the early ones were lean and caused lots of issues. If it was replaced early on as you say, it could have been replaced with the same version that is lean running?

You say you did a pressure test, did you do a vacuum test and rotate the crank too?
Yes replaced with "white " solenoid.
And yes always rotate cranks under pressure
 
its not just the soleniod, its the coil/ m tronic system that also needed changing, the earlier versions, 2 prior to M3 were known to run lean, there was an updated coil/ solenoid pack at one point, but its no longer available.

Correct reset procedure taken, as the earlier versions had a different procedure to the m3.
 
its not just the soleniod, its the coil/ m tronic system that also needed changing, the earlier versions, 2 prior to M3 were known to run lean, there was an updated coil/ solenoid pack at one point, but its no longer available.

Correct reset procedure taken, as the earlier versions had a different procedure to the m3.
Agree. However this is a late model 2020. By then almost all the saws were updated with coil/solenoid/filters ect.
 
Ok, so now we know that we can move forward.
Sorry. Should have been clearer. I've been in a few of the 1144s and have rebuilt a few from bearings out. I own one and now own this particular one as well, took it in trade for a running 365xp. Have 3 others here in various stages of repair. Mostly case damage from using them as stumping saws with less than perfect chains.
Hth
 
Yes replaced with "white " solenoid.
And yes always rotate cranks under pressure
No, you rotate the crank under vacuum when you test the seals. Pressure is not effective at testing the validity of the seals unless they’re far gone.

Pull a vacuum of 15-20 inHg and then rotate the crankshaft at least 5-8 times and check any loss of vacuum.
 
I would like to see the piston, I have seen Them get overheated from stumping if the sawdust piles up and they get the muffler blocked wile cutting. what is the serial # the upgrade kit is expensive but needed to keep it from running lean sometimes these saws set at a dealer for a few years, so new may not be new. and 40 to 1 is not best for a m tronic saw was it carboned up
 
I would like to see the piston, I have seen Them get overheated from stumping if the sawdust piles up and they get the muffler blocked wile cutting. what is the serial # the upgrade kit is expensive but needed to keep it from running lean sometimes these saws set at a dealer for a few years, so new may not be new. and 40 to 1 is not best for a m tronic saw was it carboned up
The smaller Mtronics have issues with more oil. 261 in particular. Never had issues with 661 and 40:1
 
No, you rotate the crank under vacuum when you test the seals. Pressure is not effective at testing the validity of the seals unless they’re far gone.

Pull a vacuum of 15-20 inHg and then rotate the crankshaft at least 5-8 times and check any loss of vacuum.
Pressure to seek leaks (soapy) and vacuum to confirm. It's not always the seals that leak. Had base gaskets fail, impulse batbs leak, cyl bases crack...ect
 
Pressure to seek leaks (soapy) and vacuum to confirm. It's not always the seals that leak. Had base gaskets fail, impulse batbs leak, cyl bases crack...ect
You’re not listening, instead you’re replying with statements that are irrelevant to my question.
I want to help, but I’m not going to continue to repeat myself. Good luck with your repair.
 

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