Break in technique

[KG441c]

Whats the proper technique for breaking in a chainsaw?

 

[safetyboy715]

Go out and cut some wood. I just run it avoiding WOT with no load

 

[treesmith]

Don't baby it in the cut, give it full beans but don't do long extended cuts without a break, tune it a little rich, don't leave it idling. Run it hard from new to seat the ring but don't full throttle for long out of wood
That's what I've worked out from my experiences and the advice of people whos opinions I respect

 

[KG441c]

Don't baby it in the cut, give it full beans but don't do long extended cuts without a break, tune it a little rich, don't leave it idling. Run it hard from new to seat the ring but don't full throttle for long out of wood
That's what I've worked out from my experiences and the advice of people whos opinions I respect

I agree 100%

 

[inventtis]

Would conventional oil be better to use to break in a new saw than synthetic?

 

[treesmith]

Some say yes, some say it doesn't matter, I have no idea, I've used both

 

[chadihman]

I've researched this a bit. Most of what I have read states to run it hard but not for to long. A heavy load at lower rpms is going to give you your highest cylinder pressure. The high pressure slips past the piston crown and gets behind the rings and pushes them firmly against the cylinder. It's the rings that need the attention in break in. All engines gain compression after the rough spots on the rings are smoothed out perfectly to the cylinder walls.

(1) Don't do wot without a load.

(2) Run it wot with heavy load for 20-30 seconds then let it cool down for a while.

(3) Repeat #2 till the first tank is out. Just my.02

 

[old-cat]

I've been building engines for many years and I NEVER treat a new engine easy! WOT, then off then WOT, max load then off, max load then off. Don't ever run it lean, don't ever run it WOT without load.
That's for the first tank, after that I treat it like a work saw.

 

[KG441c]

Would anything be wrong with wot on a 461 in a 15" hickory with a 24" b/c and backing the throttle to 1/2 to 3/4 throttle for a few seconds then back to wot?This is how I ran my first tank yesterday but made the mistake of saying half throttle in another thread but everyone read it as I was saying I only ran half throttle. I got my ass tore up for mentioning half throttle!!! lol

 

[blsnelling]

If the wood is big enough to load the saw, never use anything other than WOT. If knocking off little limbs and such, that's different. No need to have the saw screaming without load.

You didn't hurt anything though.

 

[KG441c]

If the wood is big enough to load the saw, never use anything other than WOT. If knocking off little limbs and such, that's different. No need to have the saw screaming without load.

You didn't hurt anything though.

Thanks Brad . Makes good sense

 

[CJ1]

Like the others have stated, run them hard and loaded. I always warm the saw up before starting to cut, I don't care if it is new or has hundreds of hours on it. Warm it up then run it hard. As far as synthetic vs dino oil. I have found the synthetic takes a few more days before the ring fully seat [compression comes up] but no difference otherwise. All my 2 strokes get synthetic or a blend now. CJ

 

[CR888]

I've researched this a bit. Most of what I have read states to run it hard but not for to long. A heavy load at lower rpms is going to give you your highest cylinder pressure. The high pressure slips past the piston crown and gets behind the rings and pushes them firmly against the cylinder. It's the rings that need the attention in break in. All engines gain compression after the rough spots on the rings are smoothed out perfectly to the cylinder walls.

(1) Don't do wot without a load.

(2) Run it wot with heavy load for 20-30 seconds then let it cool down for a while.

(3) Repeat #2 till the first tank is out. Just my.02

Good post Chad, one of the most usefull in regard to break-in. One thing to further add is people have this miscoception that modern engines need a gentle break in to avoid damage from poor metal tolerances within the engine. Today machine work is so good that this is HIGHLY unlikely & IF there were imperfections no amount off slow running is going to fix that. Many would be interested to see how engines get tested on production lines and see how engineers treat them. lol

 

[inventtis]

I'm and engineer, we **** **** up to see if we can break it and how it will break, then we try to design it so we can't break it again.

 

[GeeVee]

I'm and engineer, we **** **** up to see if we can break it and how it will break, then we try to design it so we can't break it again.

yu mus be gud at math

 

[Deets066]

Would conventional oil be better to use to break in a new saw than synthetic?

When you buy a new saw they extend the warranty if you buy stihl synthetic oil. If that's the case I would say there is nothing wrong with using it from the very start.

 

[chadihman]

When you buy a new saw they extend the warranty if you buy stihl synthetic oil. If that's the case I would say there is nothing wrong with using it from the very start.

I think the thought there was that conventional oil is not quite as slick as synthetic. For breaking in maybe conventional oil is better for allowing a little more friction to aid in breaking in the piston rings. I'm guessing the difference is slim and it wouldn't really matter for break in.

 

[Deets066]

I have heard of the theory of synthetic being too -slick- for break in. But I think you ate right, that the difference would be slim

 

[AuerX]

I think with modern engines and lubricants that a break-in is not needed.

Saws, Trimmers, Blowers etc none of my stuff have died yet because of break-in and only one needed help because of rotted fuel lines.

 

[mavanzant]

Run it like you stole it!


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