Building Homemade Splitter

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cpratt

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Hello all...Just wanted some advice on my new project...Building log splitter,a 14.5 hp briggs electric start, 16 gpm pump, auto detent valve, 4 inch by 34 inch stroke with a 1.5 rod cylinder, a 12 inch I-Beam by 10 foot. I hope thats tough and big enough for me. Would like to put a log lift on it with a winch...( any pisc??) Now my water stove has sprung a leak (dangit) have to fix it first. Any advice would be nice ... thanks
 
Welcome to the site.I'm nearly finished with my splitter and intend to post pics when its completed.
About the only thing I would recommend is maybe find a cylinder with a little bigger rod.I used a 4x24 with a 2 inch rod .(Not easily bent)
Just stick around here a while.I'm sure several others will kick in and offer their wisdom.....
 
Hello all...Just wanted some advice on my new project...Building log splitter,a 14.5 hp briggs electric start, 16 gpm pump, auto detent valve, 4 inch by 34 inch stroke with a 1.5 rod cylinder, a 12 inch I-Beam by 10 foot. I hope thats tough and big enough for me. Would like to put a log lift on it with a winch...( any pisc??) Now my water stove has sprung a leak (dangit) have to fix it first. Any advice would be nice ... thanks

You mean 24" stroke?
 
First off I'd suggest using an H beam instead of the I beam because the H would have more lateral strength. But if you see the beam has some flexing you can always weld some gussets at a later date.
Plus I'd put a 5" ram on the rig. You will gain a lot more splitting power with the bigger ram. If you cut your wood at 24" length then try to get a ram that is a bit longer, or be sure you have more than 24 inches between the wedge and the pusher.
I put a winch powered log lift on my splitter last year and I couldn't be more pleased on how well it works. But, be aware that you need some outriggers on your splitter or it will tip over when you try to pick up some of those monster rounds. Plus, don't try to use any winch less than 3000#. Mine is that size and for some reason it struggles with very large chunks.
(You can find some pictures of my rig on this site if you search for them.)
While you are scrounging for stuff, keep an eye out for log LIFTING tongs. New ones will set you back $400 so if you can find a used set it would be good.
Have fun building your splitter and be sure to take pictures of your progress. The folks here love pictures and are always there to offer suggestions!
Sometimes they will even tell you when you are doing something wrong!! :)
 
Thanks again for the info to all... just a few ?.. they cylinder is 34 inches in stroke ( 44 1/4 closed and 78 1/4 fully extended...) my I beam or H beam dont know if there different.. Looking at it as it will sit on splitter, from end to end The ( I ) is 10 inches across top, and 12 inches tall, and 10 inches across bottom.. it is 3/8 inch thick steel...
 
Thanks again for the info to all... just a few ?.. they cylinder is 34 inches in stroke ( 44 1/4 closed and 78 1/4 fully extended...) my I beam or H beam dont know if there different.. Looking at it as it will sit on splitter, from end to end The ( I ) is 10 inches across top, and 12 inches tall, and 10 inches across bottom.. it is 3/8 inch thick steel...

Wow, You're good! There is no way you are going to bend that!
A H beam would be the same width as height.
With the 34 inch ram you will be able to split some pretty nice long pieces of wood. Just make sure that the foot or wedge on the end of your ram is strong enough and will always stay in alignment so you don't bend the rod.
 
You may end up having a problem with the long stroke of the cylinder and a 1 1/2" rod. A 2" rod is the min. rod size recommended for a 24" stroke. The longer the stroke the greater chance of bending the rod.
 
You may end up having a problem with the long stroke of the cylinder and a 1 1/2" rod. A 2" rod is the min. rod size recommended for a 24" stroke. The longer the stroke the greater chance of bending the rod.

couldn't he put "stops" on the return side so that the stroke is only 24"? the control valve will lick off once the ram reaches the stops.
 
Welcome aboard AS. You will find all kind of help on this site for building a splitter, I got a lot here building mine. Not knocking you but why a 14.5 hp. when a 8 or 9 hp will turn a 16gpm pump just fine. Maybe you already had it and just are going to use it. Just using more fuel using a 14.5. Again welcome aboard and keep us posted on the progress.:givebeer::givebeer::givebeer:
 
Here is a pic of one way to do a log lift with winch. My wheelbase is wide enough that there is no tipping even with very large logs.
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like some have mentioned, i'd be careful with that 1.5" rod....don't squeal the relief when it's fully extended..... if your going to stick with that 1.5", try and split the rounds when the cylinder is 1/2 extended....i have 3 4"x1.5"s laying up against the wall slightly bent...two of them happened when i let 'friends' borrow the splitter....

A ram is at it's strongest position when it's 1/2 extended, the end of the ram is supported with the ram guide on the beam, the other end is supported by the piston in the bore, and the center of the ram is supported by the end of the cylinder case itself.

a cylinder fully retracted is almost as weak as if it's fully extended, there's nothing supporting the center of the ram. it's weaker when it's extended, as the length is almost double.


believe it or not, i have bent rams when they're fully retracted. it bowed at the center and i was unable to extent it without complete disassembly. One was a 6" bore with a 2.5" ram, 24" stroke

if your going to use a 5, i'd shoot for one with a 3" ram minimum. find 3.5 or 4 if you can. if your going to use a 5" on that beam, better weld some plate steel top and bottom so it won't bend recurve bow style with the extra 1" bore. as any bend in the frame will force the cylinder ram to follow, which will result in diaster, and lots of swearing; possibly kicking or punching the machine and hurting toes/fingers, not only because your ruined the cylinder, but also trashed a good piece of framework, while looking at many many dollars and hours of work going in circles down the toilet....alright, i'll stop.

And remember, 1" isn't 1" bigger, just as 4" is not double of 2" , π is very misleading.
And the bigger the ram the quicker it'll return as well, which is a good thing itself.

assuming 100% effienticy (never happens, but it'll give you an idea what your up against, just fill in the blanks)

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulic.htm
 
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Hello all, thanks for the advice. The reason for the 14.5 brigs is that i had it laying around and i know its a unhurt engine... I have thought about makeing the pump pulley drive off the engine with strong idler pulley for no slipping. Instead of useing a lov-joy. Maybe play with different pulleys so engine only runs at about 1/2 speed in most cases... My other older homemade splitter is like that with a 12hp wisconson and a pump off an old 610 Bobcat.. About the cylinder, yea Im scared, I got a steel on it ($140.00) brand new... GO TILL SHE BLOWS I GUESS. Then I well have to regroup.. I got 1 cylinder off my loader thats a 8X60 with a 3.5 rod (over overkill) The cylinder is alittle long but my stove will take 36 inch long wood. About the engine I have a brand new 9hp Robbin elec. start, but I was kinda saving it for a replacement engine for air compresser. And yea the hydraulic tank is a 8 inch by 60 inch 1/4 thick wall pipe, Ill fab it hopefully by weekend and start some pics.
 
A H beam would be the same width as height.

Sorry to correct you but. The main differences from an i-beam to an H-beam is that the H-beam typically has longer flanges and the flange thickness is consistant and does not taper down twords the end of the flange.
 
I have thought about makeing the pump pulley drive off the engine with strong idler pulley for no slipping. Instead of useing a lov-joy.

You won't be able to do this with the two stage (like Barnes) pumps. They are not designed and don't have the bearing strength to deal with side pressure. You will send that style of pump to an early grave trying to belt it up. Stick with a lovejoy. Nobody says you have to run it WOT. Heck I only run about half throttle most times.
 
Didnt think about that, thanks for the wisdom. Tearing the guts out of a $200.+ pump would really make me mad.
 
mounting cylinder

Thanks for the advice. I know that my cylinder, 34" long stroke with a 1.5 rod is not the best set up, but. My beam is actually 8" across the top and bottom and 10" tall, it is a 1/2 think all around. I beam or H beam I dont know. My question is when mounting the cylinder... the back will be welded in place... the front (rod) will be welded to slide pusher plate. With the small size of my rod, and the size of beam, should I mount the front of bore cylinder solid to beam... With the flex of beam and or cylinder, would it possiable try to help not to bend my rod. Or let it float with the beam. Thanks again... Pics are coming
 
You won't be able to do this with the two stage (like Barnes) pumps. They are not designed and don't have the bearing strength to deal with side pressure. You will send that style of pump to an early grave trying to belt it up. Stick with a lovejoy. Nobody says you have to run it WOT. Heck I only run about half throttle most times.

i was thinking about that.....

so, in lieu of a pulley system, would one of those electric clutches work?

these are the type they use to turn the mower blades on and off. instead of running a belt, the pump would be directly connected to the clutch drive pully (some how) and, the engine could be started, then the clutch engaged or disengaged at any time.

would that work?
 

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