well, just to summarize.
Boiler: Steel King 4300B 40 Gallon; working pressure 30PSI, 145CFM draft blower, firebrick. 6" chimney. Rated for 485,000 BTU/Hr.
Price: free.
originally designed to be setup down in the basement, as it's not insulated in any shape at all. Originally had; 4 1.5", 2 1", 1 1/2" fittings.
The work:
Added a water jacket to the front of the firebox, the back, around 12" of the chimney coming out the back, and around the entire bottom. Also added a 2nd 145CFM draft fan to the front. Only exposed area of firebox is on the far bottom, where the ash door is. Cant' say it's part of the firebox though, since it's luke warm to the touch at any time. From some rough crazy math, increased water capacity to about 85-95 gallon, give or take. Added 4 more 1 1/2 fittings in various places. 2 more 1/2" fittings
Material Used
bought some 6" 1/4" wall pipe for the chimney to extend the backside 12". Added some 2.25" flat stock around the front to bring that out about 2.25". The steel to use for water jacket addition was laying around everywhere, tripping over it, moving it 10 times every year, figure i'd use it for something useful. 1/2 of it was a truck box someone scabbed together.
Bought a 44# roll of .035 wire. $38
Burned a K tank of oxygen. $30
Burned a K tank of C10 - not sure what it costs, it's been around for years
All cutting was done on a 10# tank of propane
(i know, i'm a cheap b!tch, i only use acetylene when gas welding or cutting anything over 2", or making rubber boomers...condoms are the safest, I'm not kidding!! there's no static electricity)
Insulation, 24" on the top center peak, down to 18" on the top edges, peaked roof. 18" insulated on the sides, back and bottom. 12" on the front. Plain jain insulation batting. R of 4.3-4.7 per inch.
Price: Free.
Skirting, some sheet metal i had laying around. Used some clear silicone to make it water tight
Price: free.
Plumbing, 1" ID Logstor. 2 zones, one 85Ft, other 76Ft. 1" copper in the house. Somehow dad ended up with like 80 ft of 1" copper rwith some aluminum fins on it, so, any straight runs in the garage or basement i used that to dissipate the heat better. Few years ago some flea-market shopping and he bought 18 1.25" brass ball valves, and my buddy 'found' 36 reducer bushings at his work in the inventory room....
Logstor was $12/ft. The guy said give him a call and when he drives to holland to make a delivery he'll meet me at a truck stop near holland, which was like a 20 min drive for me. Said give him $10 and call it even. I couldn't argue it.
For the controllers thermocouple, i had to do some shopping, but i found a comp nut and some bushings, and with a bunch of reducers, the probe goes in the smallest reducer, working it's way up to a 1.5" tee, and the water basically elbows in the tee, fully encasing the probe. Couldn't of worked out better.
Pumps are GrundFos UP26-64F with 1.25" throats. Rated for 33GPM with 1' of head. I'm about 8Ft. specs sheet says 22.5GPM with 7' head. They were taken from a hydronic job over in easttown, bearings were bad, i took them apart and some lube work, they work like a charm. Even if i get 1 year out of them, better then flipping $380 a piece.
Heat exchangers, 22x22x3.5" 1" sweats. If water is 180*F at 22GPM it's rated for 200k btu/hr. 130*F water and 22GPM will dissipate about 130K btu/hr.
Price: $286 each. One in each house.
Heat Exchanger for the garage: GMC diesel radiator. 4.5' x 38" 2.5" inlet and outlet. No fan. It sits down in the pit under the staircase. Just the high amounts of heat radiating from it pulls down the cool air and pushes up hot air.
Price: free.
Can't really calculate my time. I did about 1 week of constant work. But then i had to work 60 hr weeks and occasionally a weekend, so, it got spanned out over a month. Maybe 2 weeks of 8hr days.... nearly 1/2 of the work was while on vacation, so, i got paid to build most of it.
Am i missing anything besides pics? those will come soon.