Can cold weather ruin a saw?

[wolfman]

Lately the temperature has been around or below freezing. I store my chainsaw and fuel/bar oil in an unheated garage and I have noticed that the bar oil has been really "thick". When I can finally get my saw to run it takes a few minutes before the chain will turn. WHen I give it gas it sounds like the chain brake is on. Usually I see smoke coming out of the bottom of the saw and after little bit it spits out some black (burnt?) bar oil and the chain will break free. Is this typical, and if not, what is going on and what should I do? I am afraid that I will burn out the clutch or harm some component of the saw. Any help is appreciated.

 

[Tony Snyder]

Boy, there ought to be plenty of guys on here that can give you guidance on that.

I have seen a couple of oil pump drives get wiped out lately from running the saws at around zero with cold oil and cold saws. (one 2149 Jonsered and one 962 Efco) But, I don't see a lot of other brands so I don't have an across the board view

Trouble is with me trying to give advice on this is I don't get a lot of feedback on whether guys are thinning their oil, keeping it warmed in the jug, or whatever. I'm going to start polling some of the cold wheather cutters and see what I learn.

 

[wolfman]

thanks tony.....so it's not only me then, huh? I think I remember reading something on here about burning out the oiler on some saws that oil at idle. I hope that didn't or doesn't happen to me. What would you thin the bar oil out with?

 

[NeTree]

i keep my bar oil in the cab in the winter, near the heater outlet. Keeps in limber. Put the warm bar oil in the oil tank before you fire it up, and you shouldn't have many problems.

Or, you could thin the bar oil with deisel, like some guys do.

 

[eyolf]

Maybe it isn't widely available, but I've been using winter oil year around. The stuff is like tranny fluid in consistency. I get it for $3 a gallon at the local fleet and farm supply.

I'd be interested in hearing what Tony Snyder comes up with. It doesn't quite get as cold down there in Illinois, but I was in Springfield during some Zero weather once, and learned that their record is 17 below. That's cold enough to test the oiler on a saw.

 

[bwalker]

I use summer bar oil year round. When it gets below 10 degrees I cut it with a slight amount of paint thinnner, diesel or kerosene.

 

[wolfman]

maybe i will see if i can get winter bar oil and if not, try cutting mine with diesel. I guess my problem may be the result of the oil being nonviscous which causes added resistance (??). I am interested if anyone else has had this problem.

 

[jokers]

Hey Wolfman,

Have you been cutting with your bar in the snow? Sounds like your chain is frozen in the groove or maybe the crud under the chain cover is frozen and hanging up the chain.

Too thick oil may strip a gear or give you a dry chain but I`ve never heard of nor seen where it wouldn`t allow the chain to move. I`ll bet that the burnt oil is coming from your clutch slipping in all that mess.



Russ
Cutting in the snow everyday lately

 

[rustyb]

"When I can finally get my saw to run it takes a few minutes before the chain will turn. WHen I give it gas it sounds like the chain brake is on".

Yeah, the few times I fired up my MS260 last month (around 25 degrees), I got the same results as you stated above. My MS180 however didn't do this.

 

[wolfman]

i have been cutting in the snow but not "in the snow". I have been trying to not set the saw in the snow but maybe because it has been so cold everything is froze. I will check to see if there is any junk frozen inside. I am sure there is--if so, what can I do to prevent that? THanks.

 

[wolfman]

well, from the sounds of things I am not the only one experiencing problems resulting from the cold temps. All I can say is that I hope it warms up soon. Why would one saw be problematic and another not?

 

[NeTree]

Oh yer not the only one dealing with cold bro...

Try greasing the bar sprocket just before you put it to bed for the night, to push out any water that might be lurking in there.

 

[jokers]

Don`t take offense Wolfman, putting your bar in the snow is often unavoidable. To counteract problems I usually just let the saw rev long enough to oil the chain real well afterward and displace whatever moisture I can. I also spin the chain by hand before asking the clutch to do it.

BTW, storing saws used in the winter in an unheated space works best for me. I found that it wasn`t uncommon to have the recoil freeze after storing in my heated basement. I`ve figured that if there is enough condensation to freeze the recoil, how much water is in the gas and on the same token, sometimes if you do have water in the gas and you store outside, the water will freeze and then it`s easy to get out.

Russ

 

[ranger]

"Severe cold cutting"

Just thought I would add my two cents worth. In the summer months we run Chevron bar oil bought in five gallon buckets. In the past when the temp would drop below freezing, like others we would just add deisel. The past couple years we have been running the stihl winter grade bar oil. Looks just like anti-freeze in color. Highly recommend trying some if you cut in below freezing temps. At around -5 the oil starts to get a touch thick. Below that I think it is important to start out with a warm saw. We let the saws ride in the truck with us on the way out. On the landing we usually have a good fire going and set the saws and oil near to keep the saws warm between turns. When out falling timber even at temps -10 to -30 below bar oil is not a problem. Might not pour very well but the saws are hot all day so it thins instantly when added to the saw. We haven't had problems with our oil pumps going, even with the extreme temps we log in here in the interior of Alaska.

Matt

 

[max2cam]

It's been cold here for weeks, and I too notice the chain not turning upon startup for whatever reason. When that happens (or I think it will) I run the bar along a log or stump and move the chain by hand so it loosens up without putting too much strain on the clutch and stuff. Seems to help.

I wonder too if very cold temps can shrink and/or crack seals or rubber parts? When it gets -30 F. that seems pretty harsh. Are modern saws engineered to stand up to those cold temps in the seals, etc?

http://www.atthecreation.com/

 

[tony marks]

i believe in your situation id just buy a case an keep it in the house..clean
foze chips out of the works. good luck..

 

[Ryan Willock]

I haven't had any problems other than having to thin my bar oil with deisel. I keep my saws in an unheated shed and my bar oil rides in the bed of my truck at all times and stays there overnight. When I get home I take the clutch cover off and clean out all of the with the saw key and then blow out whats left with an air hose.

 

[ricksvar]

Here in Kentucky we can go several years without -20F temperatures.Having said that I keep my smaller power equipment stored in a heated area during winter,also battery operated tools.

If your bar has a roller tip and you grease it,can get pretty stiff in extremely cold temp.Might want to consider a light weight oil or not greasing it at all during the winter.I 've nerver worked in extremely cold temps but a solid nose bar might be better.

Rick

 

[Ryan Willock]

The record low in Virginia is -30*F and was set in 1985!!!

 

[tony marks]

yep ,,remember it well .. ryan.. that was the day i said,, dont think ill make a trip to virginia today.. not hat i was goin anyway,,but thot, if i had been planning the trip ,,i d not go..