Can you pull a tree with 2 ropes tied together?

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Double fisherman's used to be the go to knot for rescue climbers. Used in prusiks, belay lines, etc.
I say used to because I dropped my certification years ago and do not know what is popular now. Double fisherman's only reduces rope strength by ~25%. When done correctly it is as safe as any.
The only negative is, as has been stated, they aren't the easiest to break apart. I like the idea of a square knot in between. I'll have to remember that one.
 
Double fisherman's used to be the go to knot for rescue climbers. Used in prusiks, belay lines, etc.
I say used to because I dropped my certification years ago and do not know what is popular now. Double fisherman's only reduces rope strength by ~25%. When done correctly it is as safe as any.
The only negative is, as has been stated, they aren't the easiest to break apart. I like the idea of a square knot in between. I'll have to remember that one.

I prefer the alpine butterfly bend because it ties very quickly and comes apart easily with a marlinspike.
 
I prefer the alpine butterfly bend because it ties very quickly and comes apart easily with a marlinspike.

I use the Alpine butterfly as a mid line attachment point but I'm not familiar with using it as a bend to join two ropes together.

I've used the double fisherman's to attach a rope to a biner or snap to the end of a rope and to make a continuous loop for use as a tether for a friction hitch. Something I wouldn't be tying and untying. Once loaded the double fisherman's is a real bear to untie and often needs cutting to remove.
 
I use the Alpine butterfly as a mid line attachment point but I'm not familiar with using it as a bend to join two ropes together.

It's the same knot. Picture making an alpine butterfly loop and then cutting the loop. That's a bend. :)

Fully secure and relatively easy to untie. I use a quick method to tie it. Here's a short video.

View attachment butterfly bend.mp4

The important thing about this technique is the rope in the front (in this video the yellow one) has to go behind the other rope when you cross them over. If you cross them the other way the knot is wrong and will fail.

I've used the double fisherman's to attach a rope to a biner or snap to the end of a rope and to make a continuous loop for use as a tether for a friction hitch. Something I wouldn't be tying and untying. Once loaded the double fisherman's is a real bear to untie and often needs cutting to remove.

Right. I don't use the double fisherman's on anything I plan on untying for the same reason. Jams too hard.
 
Always keep this at the forefront of your mind:

Arborist/Tree Removal/Cutting is a PASS/FAIL Test that you take everyday in this field of work.

You always want to PASS the test and the good news is that you can with proper study/preparation.

In a pinch i have tied ropes together to pull a tree over.

The Keys to Success:
#1 - KNOW your Rope(s) = (A) Strength + (B) Condition = PASS/FAIL
#2 - KNOW your Knots = use the Internet for Tutorials/Videos or buy a book on knots = PASS/FAIL
#3 - KNOW your Situation
a.) Weight distribution of Tree/Canopy/Lean
b.) Expensive Objects in Area such as HOUSE, Road/Cars/Pedestrians, Power Lines etc
c.) If unsure STOP and seek medical advice(LOL) = seek Pro's advice who have Years of Pro Experience

#4 - Another part of the equation is ANCHOR = What is your Anchor for the Rope/Pulling???

#5 - LOOK and SEE = Interference from nearby trees will redirect the Fall of the tree you are felling/cutting.

All these are PASS/FAIL decisions

EXTRA HELP = Use TWO Ropes or More and Higher is Better for Leverage
 
Round Sheet as stated perhaps slipped. If one rope smaller / tighter, that must be the locking hitch side especially single sheet. The larger/'fluffier' side of Sheet Bend the more passive bight; just like smaller cord for friction hitch grip on larger host.
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Echoing Del_ to on 'parts alignment' and seating at actual usage positions purposely crafted . Partially so don't give system on loading to impact into seating positions, sometimes errantly and many times over tight, more likely to jam. As like slop into rigid system parts being similarly problematic.
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If backleaner I think rope pull is to bring CoG uphill over the hinge pivot , to then 'splash down' on the fall side. Pulls when CoG on fall side I think are best to force stronger/earlier falling/thicker hinge. Wedge as a backup and extra force, also if folds when pounding easier to evacuate holding only hammer/not saw.
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I think the art (besides not getting killed) is mostly to use rope and wedge to target direction, NOT steering. Steering side lean mostly by Tapered Hinge (rarely spiced with step-Dutch inverse cousin) to ballast side forces out of equation leaving only forward force parts. Pull/push with rope/wedge to target to make stronger hinge, then let that stronger (Tapered) hinge fight stronger against side force.
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Rope angle to put some force against side lean
>>reduces some of pull that makes hinge stronger/thicker
>>when rope tension relieved stronger hinge part retained
But, side lean can impact back from effort part not used to make hinge stronger when rope /wedge force relieved that was ballasting against side lean.
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I think easy drop is great to instead complicate to slight side lean scenario.
Model fall straight into lean as all available force forward for most ground concussion.
vs. only part of force forward, some across, so not feeding into strongest part of gravity pull. Also practice more, will make you luckier and everything more intuitive.
 
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