Canadien Pm 270
- Thread starter Dooey000
- Start date
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I suppose your could pinch off the fuel line from the tank to the carb while your pull the thing over so it will not continue to pull fuel into the engine. If its pretty flooded you will get a mist or slight bit of fuel out the spark plug hole while the engine is pulled through by the starter rope....when your done dont't for get to unclamp the fuel line....might need a plug by now too
So I pinched the line, removed the plug, (checked plug, it has good blue/white spark) turned it over it splashed some fuel out of the hole, put plug back in unclamped the line and it still won't start and still pushes fuel out the muffler.
Also just changed the plug just to make sure
torinocobra
ArboristSite Operative
Pull the plug, dump all the fuel out of the tank so it won’t keep drawing, and make sure the kill switch is off. Then keep pulling while holding it wide open with the saw upside down. It’s just really flooded I’d bet. Clean the plug back up—get the oil off of it so it doesn’t short to ground—and reinstall.
thank you all for your wonderful help! ok i will try this after lunch, to annoyed with the saw right now i need a little bit of down time.
As already mentioned, there is most likely way too much raw fuel in the crankcase. Remove the sparkplug,turn the saw up side down and pull the recoil 8 - 10 times while the saw is still up side down, turn it back over and pull it over another 8 - 10 times to help clear out the excess fuel. Dry the sparkplug and try again.
The pict of the needle valve itself is a little fuzzy but the rubber tip on the needle looks worn/chafed, maybe just looks that way but that tip needs to perfect for the needle valve to work correctly.
Don`t give up, its only a machine, it can be made to run with some time an patience.
happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hmm. That hole in the seat seems awfully large to me... Did you replace the needle and seat when you replaced the gaskets?
i did, i noticed that as well and went back to the old one to see if that made a difference.
when i got the old parts out i realised why i didn't hook the lever on, the old one just sat on top, with no where to hook on to the needle
happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Did it make any difference?
Haha, Ran out of petrol, i couldn't test it
Big storm blew through here,had a 30 hr power outage.
In your rebuild kit, was there a small flat donut shaped bit of rubber that would fit down inside that seat barrel?
In your rebuild kit, was there a small flat donut shaped bit of rubber that would fit down inside that seat barrel?
im not sure,
when i bought the rebuild kit and put it in was about a year ago, do you have a picture of what it would look like?
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
As Said the inlet needle seat is worn/damaged/debris that carb was a bit prone to that problem& double check the lever height they are sensitive to being at the correct height don't know if the factory in Ireland still has replacement inlet needle seats I got 3some time back Nice Resto by the way
wooo! so it all came together today, i got petrol and oil, and time to actually do something,
tested the old seat and new needle + lever this still flooded the saw which means that it was definitely the needle. so went to old needle, lever and seat. and now it doesn't leak fuel or flood the case!
so i found out the new rebuild kits don't always work for the old carb.
very excited its running and im fine tuning the carb!
thank you all so much for your help in getting it up and going, i would never have worked it out on my own.
tested the old seat and new needle + lever this still flooded the saw which means that it was definitely the needle. so went to old needle, lever and seat. and now it doesn't leak fuel or flood the case!
so i found out the new rebuild kits don't always work for the old carb.
very excited its running and im fine tuning the carb!
thank you all so much for your help in getting it up and going, i would never have worked it out on my own.
Not all HL kits are created equal and Tillotson used different combinations of needle length, seat length, tip material and seat material/design. And, even if you get the specified kit who knows that it will work properly. You might even end up with a diaphragm designed for a forked lever and a flat lever. I haven't seen this last in a new kit, but I can see how easily it would happen.
Chris B.
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
One "Trick " iv'e used on that needle /seat is to lap in the needle with & tiny amount of auto paint cutting paste Make sure it's spotless after though or the lapping is ongoing
