rm17742
ArboristSite Lurker
Hello all... I am a long time lurker, first time poster and I plan on posting more! Yall have cost me a lot of money over the last few years, but I have some great saws to show for it.
Here is my deal: I just picked up a new Makita 401 on ebay as a backup to my 346xp. I decided to do my 1st muffler mod which turned out really well. I have a Baileys tach and set the saw to 12,000 RPM as recommended by the manufacturer. The problem is that the saw still sounds really rich to me. It constantly 4 strokes at WOT.
My Question is - do you tune by RPM alone since I have a tach, or should I exceed the recommended RPM and lean it out until it just begins to 4 stroke? Am I doing something wrong by having it run rich which still running at 12,000 RPM? I just adjusted my high screw until I hit that mark and quit. I am just concerned because I would probably run it leaner if I didn't have a tach and know what the speed is (it would "feel better").
Thanks!
===Russell
346XP
359
334T
DCS-6401 (with a bow bar!)
DCS-401
029 (my first saw @ 15)
Here is my deal: I just picked up a new Makita 401 on ebay as a backup to my 346xp. I decided to do my 1st muffler mod which turned out really well. I have a Baileys tach and set the saw to 12,000 RPM as recommended by the manufacturer. The problem is that the saw still sounds really rich to me. It constantly 4 strokes at WOT.
My Question is - do you tune by RPM alone since I have a tach, or should I exceed the recommended RPM and lean it out until it just begins to 4 stroke? Am I doing something wrong by having it run rich which still running at 12,000 RPM? I just adjusted my high screw until I hit that mark and quit. I am just concerned because I would probably run it leaner if I didn't have a tach and know what the speed is (it would "feel better").
Thanks!
===Russell
346XP
359
334T
DCS-6401 (with a bow bar!)
DCS-401
029 (my first saw @ 15)