Carb Tuning

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rm17742

ArboristSite Lurker
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Lexington, SC
Hello all... I am a long time lurker, first time poster and I plan on posting more! Yall have cost me a lot of money over the last few years, but I have some great saws to show for it.

Here is my deal: I just picked up a new Makita 401 on ebay as a backup to my 346xp. I decided to do my 1st muffler mod which turned out really well. I have a Baileys tach and set the saw to 12,000 RPM as recommended by the manufacturer. The problem is that the saw still sounds really rich to me. It constantly 4 strokes at WOT.

My Question is - do you tune by RPM alone since I have a tach, or should I exceed the recommended RPM and lean it out until it just begins to 4 stroke? Am I doing something wrong by having it run rich which still running at 12,000 RPM? I just adjusted my high screw until I hit that mark and quit. I am just concerned because I would probably run it leaner if I didn't have a tach and know what the speed is (it would "feel better").

Thanks!

===Russell

346XP
359
334T
DCS-6401 (with a bow bar!)
DCS-401
029 (my first saw @ 15)
 
Thanks for the advice... I may lean it out a little bit, but I don't want to get carried away. Thanks!
 
Thanks for the advice... I may lean it out a little bit, but I don't want to get carried away. Thanks!

By far the best tuning aid is a stopwatch and a good straight clean log.

From right were your saw is, or fatter, cut a timed cookie, lean it maybe 5 minutes worth.

Cut again repeat.

What you will see is a cut @ (for a say)

@ 1 1/4 fat a 10 second cut

@ 1 1/8 fat a 12 second cut

@ 1 turn out a 9 second cut (Most saws fall real flat on there face when you hit that 'too lean' stage.)

back out a little...

@ 1 1/16 out a 13 second cut, bingo, your there.

Most saws 'perfect' have a little burble out of the wood, but go to town in the wood.
 
Last edited:
ShoerFast ---

Let me get this right... you are tuning for a SLOWER cut? Why?
 

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