I realize that but I have not done the welding on things that will be in a heat cycle situation. I'd be preheating with a torch so my "controlled environment" will not be that controlled. LOL
Central Boiler Cast iron Door has cracked. Need some help.
- Thread starter Kevin in Ohio
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I realize that but I have not done the welding on things that will be in a heat cycle situation. I'd be preheating with a torch so my "controlled environment" will not be that controlled. LOL
Mine gets that vibrating sound too as for me, It's the damper solenoid. Yours is probably the same thing. You can adjust it to lessen that along with the normal oiling.
panolo
Seldom right...Always opinionated!
Mine is plate steel with the deflector plate attached. I have an edge 550 so I doubt my firebox gets as hot as yours. Never paid attention to the reaction chamber door but I think that is plate steel as well without a deflector.
May be talking apples and oranges here. The Classic stoves are not catalytic and I have no forced air. Just a simple temp. controlled damper. Not as efficeint as newer stuff but less maintenance.
Never oiled that solenoid after 13 years....ever.
I think it may be time...oops!
I think it may be time...oops!
panolo
Seldom right...Always opinionated!
True.
Yes to preheat I can’t remember what rod sometimes I use 6011 or 409 ss. Just weld 3-4 inches at a time stop let it cool a little and start again
Drill each end, vee it out with a grinder and put the mig welder to it, what have you got to lose? It's only a door.
You've Mig welded cast iron? What wire?
I have used regular copper coated run of the mill wire to join cast to regular steel. Was more for decoration, but had to look decent and hold a trellis together. Cast iron decorative toppers. It can be done, just not always real pretty!
Was sent some pictures of the new door they are now selling on the Classic stoves. Looks to be made from plate steel.
I'm assuming the standoff plate is to lessen the radiant heat to the center of the door? Maybe a sacrificial warp surface? Interesting to me they have chosen to quit the cast iron door and go to this. Yet another reason why I think they know there was a problem. Just leaves a bad taste in your mouth when stuff like this goes on.
I see it doesn't say "Lifetime Warranty" anymore.
In the grand scheme of things, I can't imagine how much John Deere would want for a part like that. I can just see the conversation at the parts counter.
Kevin, - " I need a price for a new door for my boiler".
John Deere Parts Guy, "How much you got"?
blakey
ArboristSite Operative
I will add my experience just fyi. I have a CB 5648 purchased in 2001 and my cast iron door cracked in the second or third year I believe. The dealer came out and replaced it with another cast iron door updated with a stand off plate similar to what has been shown here. It has over sized holes to allow for expansion. No problem since.
Yeah, I bet that was pretty gnarly looking.
Seems everyone I've seen has been able to get their's replaced but because I was able to nurse mine by keeping the fire farther back it may have been the reason it lasted longer. My mistake I guess.
I have contacted Central Boiler directly but no reply so far.
Thank you for the info. Was the crack in the lower middle extending to the air opening?
blakey
ArboristSite Operative
I believe the crack was in that area. Back then I was burning long slab wood so I was loading right up to the door. Now I try to keep it 6 inches away at least.
I may have to reconsider my loading method.
My thought was wood placed furthest from exhaust exit would create more efficient burns...... for 6 yrs my wood load has been 2-3" from door.
My temp set is 185-175.
Another thought is......if it ain't cracked yet what would trigger a crack that the door hasn't been exposed to.
My thought was wood placed furthest from exhaust exit would create more efficient burns...... for 6 yrs my wood load has been 2-3" from door.
My temp set is 185-175.
Another thought is......if it ain't cracked yet what would trigger a crack that the door hasn't been exposed to.
That, I can not answer. My temps have been set to 178 - 185. Not been that cold(except today) so fires/loads were small. I've always had the burn pile towards the center and rake the finer coals towards the door to burn up so I can get a scoop of ashes out at next load. Have been burning hard maple and ash, all well seasoned as always. Burned a lot of beech over the years. Kind of rare for us to get Osage which I know burns extremely hot. When we have had some and similar Mulberry I make sure to have it in the center. It's pretty amazing that so many have had the same issue with the crack in the same spot.
brenndatomu
Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
My dad has an older CB...don't know the model, the biggest one they had short of going to a commercial unit. They have replaced the door on it several times over the years, I think the first time or two was under warranty...my brother said the last time (recent) it is now a steel door...he said they are having problems with the damper sticking closed now, which never happened before...said it is getting "creosoted shut"
I welded some shaker grates on my old Yukon wood/coal/oil furnace using 7018 rod back in 2012...preheated, then used a infrared thermometer to check temp since I wanted to let it cool very slowly, heat provided by oxy/acetylene torch for the cool down period...held up fine, still in one piece when I sold it recently...
I welded some shaker grates on my old Yukon wood/coal/oil furnace using 7018 rod back in 2012...preheated, then used a infrared thermometer to check temp since I wanted to let it cool very slowly, heat provided by oxy/acetylene torch for the cool down period...held up fine, still in one piece when I sold it recently...
Appreciate the insight. Thank you.
