I just picked up an MS461. It is amazingly unstoppable with the 25" ES bar with RS chain. I picked up a 32" ES bar (0.375" pitch, 0.050" guage) and RS full comp chain loops. I have to say it works very well, but I put the 32" set-up to work on some 30+" white oak, and it did bog down occasionally. I'm wondering if I should add full/semi-skip chain for "maxing" out my saw/bar on very tough hardwoods (oak, hickory, beech) or something else to really keep the revs / power up in these "hard" woods. Please let me know what you think. Please don't tell me to get a bigger saw;-) That will come later when I finally break down and get an Alaska mill...
Chain for MS461 with 32" ES Bar (0.375" pitch, 0.050" guage)
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fearofpavement
Trying them all
Well, what you have should work. Just keep a light enough touch on the saw to keep it from bogging as that is not being kind to it. White oak is pretty dense. Keeping your chain very sharp will of course help too. If you like, try a semi skip chain. some people like those on longer bars. It too will bog the saw if you lean on it.
Fearofpavement, Thanks, thaat makes a lot of sense. I like the K.I.S.S. principle too. Honestly, I'll be able to use the 25" bar 90+% of the time. Just got the 32" bar "because I can" and I had a 30ish inch oak to clean up (25" was fine with 2 passes). But, when I really need it, I'm sure it will be nice to have the extra inches, so I would like the optimum chain (RS full comp may be the best ?). I just don't know, I'm admittedly relative novice.
Philip Wheelock
Finis Origine Pendet
Congrats on the saw. Great choice. But a 32" bar? Good grief. That length is MS660 territory for Oak, although it probably would work OK with a skip chain for softwoods. To be honest, I'd suggest moving the 32" b/c setup unless you're going to be cutting 40-50" Pine and the like. A 25" bar w/full comp chain is the appropriate setup to fell 30" Oak with your saw, IMO. The dealer who sold you that bar should have steered you better.
Sprocket? Good question. I'm running an ES bar with 105 DL, but I don't know/never counted the sprocket. I see there is a small and large sprocket, but I don't know which one I have. Here's a pict if it helps. I'll count the sprocket later.
Thanks for your input. I appreciate your info. Please, don't blame my dealer. He set me up with the 25" bar and I asked for the RS chains. I went back and added the 32"bar, just "because I can," especially after running it with the 25" in nasty oak and seeing how effortlessly it blew through it. I know full well that the 32" bar is the max for this saw in "perfect" conditions, probably more appropriate for in soft wood. Just thought I would get some opinions about how to max out this saw in hardwoods. As I said before, I'll definitely wind up with and 880 or equivalent, when I finally get around to milling on my own with an Alaska mill. For now, I've got a great friend with a Woodmizer LT40 w/ 33hp diesel, so I'm covered, but he is looking to sell his mill and retire, so some day I'll upgrade...
Looks like a 3/8-7 sprocket. Thank youl
Philip Wheelock
Finis Origine Pendet
Fair enough.
I think the 25" bar w/RS chain that you have is the optimum hardwood falling setup for your saw in terms of handling and having enough torque to stay in the power band when the bar is buried. When you're cutting big wood, the last thing you want to do is babysit the saw in the cut. Also, as you may know, become an expert at hand-filing the chain with round file only (no attachments) + depth gauge tool & flat file. Learn how to make a bore cut if you don't know already; this largely eliminates the need for a longer bar.This might no help you none but on my 044 I run a 7 pin with a 25 inch bar I run mostly full comp sometimes I run skip and both work real well for me for anything I need to cut and no need to thank me I'm just glad I could help you out some .. People on here like to help each other that's why I get on here to learn and help
fearofpavement
Trying them all
If you didn't change it, the saw probably has a 7 tooth sprocket. The sprocket referred to is the one that drives the chain. It is on the clutch and will say 3/8-7 or possibly 3/8-8. the 3/8 is the pitch of the chains and the -7 is the number of drive link slots in it. If you have an 8T sprocket, you'll need a 7T to run the longer bar.
Ok. Reason I asked is in case you had an 8pin on there, you may be able to run the big bar by switching to a 7. But that's a moot point now.
Thanks. Sounds like good advice. I'm using the longer bar for faster bucking of stuff greater than 25" Obviously not necessary, but it's pretty sweet buck 30+" logs in one cut, if you can.Fair enough.
Knobby57
Peeing outdoors
I've seen guys run 25" bars on 290's you can do it . It's like putting perfume on a pig. A 32 on a 461 hmmm.... I would do it. I would run full skip semi chisel for hard wood. Set the rakers to no more than .025" and file that chain sharper than a razor. Practice filing use a light touch . I lock my arm and push through with my shoulder for better control and pay attention to the angles . But hey you got a STIHL 461 !!!!! Run the hell out of that thing it will take it .. Will a 880 cut with a 32 faster ?? Yes but you need large mount bars and look the THE ROCK to through it around . I have one and love it until I have to drag it into the woods. I got to run a mastermind 461 next to a stock one and I can tell you what.. You would never think it's the same saw. Send that baby to randy so you don't kick yourself for not doing it sooner there is a reason he is backlogged with work
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Nuzzy
Trail Gnome
Get full skip chain for that 32" and run it like you stole it.
Philip Wheelock
Finis Origine Pendet
Makes sense to me. Keep the rpm's in the power zone.
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