Chain Issues.. anyone??

[WRW]

OK, now that the mystery is solved...HEY Master Blaster! That's one of my favorite non-western movies! Lotta quotes make it into the workplace. um hmmm.

 

[MasterBlaster]

That wuz a KILLER flick!

 

[woodturner]

sprocket nose bars

I read in the oregon booklet that sprocket nose bars require that the chain be a little tighter than a solid nose bar. It said hold the bar up & tighten chain to remove sag, then tighten the tension screw another 1/4 turn.


Anybody heard this before? True or false?

 

[Crofter]

That 1/4 turn deal seems too much on some saws. I dont thilnk they all have the same thread pitch etc and on some that would be much too tight.

Frank

 

[Tom Dunlap]

I've run Oregon chain for years and have never seen the "soft" chain that Brian is talking about. Maybe they only sell it in Florida

Good to hear that the problem was found.

Someone mentioned that the adjusting screw could be bent. I've had the threads tweak when a saw jams in a cut. This isn't really evident until the chain is retensioned and then run in some big wood. If the screw is straight I've run it through a die to clean up the threads and had no more problems.

Tom

 

[woodturner]

bar lift

The Husky manual says lift the bar when tightening the lugs. The Oregon booklet says lift the bar when tensioning the chain.

A couple folks here say lift when tensioning the chain

So, what is the general consensus here?

 

[scottr]

Tension and Tighten

WT , lift the bar when tensioning and tightening .

 

[glens]

Yeah, tightening the lugs is the last <i>step</i> in the chain tensioning <i>process</i>.

 

[Gypo Logger]

I've noticed that the Huskys are more difficult to tension properly than the Stihls. This is because the locating pin is much smaller than the hole in the bar, causing the pin to be off centre in relation to the bar pin hole, so proper tensioning becomes kinda hit and miss. An additional hole can be drilled closer to the tail of the bar that is smaller, that also allows less drivers to be used if the oiler hole lines up.
John

 

[Crofter]

Rocky, I have seen it in writing somewhere too, about giving an additional 1/4 turn after chain is brought against bottom of bar, but that is tighter than I like it. Stihlman 36, Chris showed me a trick that I like. Simply turn the saw upside down when you are putting on the bar and chain and adjusting; that gets rid of the need to hold the tip up since gravity is holding it the right way.

Frank

 

[woodturner]

Originally posted by Crofter
Rocky, I have seen it in writing somewhere too, about giving an additional 1/4 turn after chain is brought against bottom of bar, but that is tighter than I like it. Stihlman 36, Chris showed me a trick that I like. Simply turn the saw upside down when you are putting on the bar and chain and adjusting; that gets rid of the need to hold the tip up since gravity is holding it the right way.

Frank

That is a good trick! I tried the extra 1/4 turn, and the chain seems too tight like that. It requires a very firm grip in order to pull the chain around by hand. So, I backed it of the 1/4 turn or maybe a little more, but still no sag.

 

[glens]

Maybe the &frac14; turn is for new Oregon chain and it's to compensate for the initial stretch (and on one particular make/model saw from days gone by).

Frank, you can also leave the saw upright and pick up on the rear handle to apply the necessary pressure to the bar tip.&nbsp; There's no convenient way I know of to make it a one-handed job.

Woodturner, I'm curious how it is you've solved your chain dilemma.

Glen

 

[jokers]

Hi Dan,

I won`t dispute that the chrome on Stihl chain is thicker and consequently harder to break through, but I`m just not seeing this excessive chain stretch that a few guys are claiming with Oregon. I`ve got to admit that I`m curious but since I`m not having the problem, I`m not that curious, LOL.

Russ

 

[jokers]

Originally posted by Qatanlison
Jokers,
If my opinion was that the oilers of the two saws wasn't identical, I would have said so. I think I contributed to the other readers with some info that I thought could come in handy.
By "straightening things out" I merely wanted to share my knowledge of the aforementioned saws with the rest of you - Not to make you less of an oracle. And fact-wise I have access to Husky's support-site with all updates, service-bulletines and spare-part diagrams but I suppose I should've said that prior to my answer to get some credability?

The part numbers for the oilers are;
346XP: 537 10 55-01
357XP: 537 10 55-02

Q

Ola, Thanks for recognizing that I am an oracle.

I have looked at my disk and verified that I have spoken out of turn, not that I am saying that your latest post lacked credibilty, but I had to see for myself what the heck I`m talking about. I`m glad that I did not name the person who gave me the info because I can only surmise that I misunderstood him.

Of course you are correct that the complete assemblies have different part numbers but if you examine the exploded drawings you will see that the oilers are identical with the exception of the plunger, which BTW has it`s own part number. My point relative to this is if a person`s dealer was not going to warranty a deficient oiler, the plunger from the 357 pump could be obtained and fitted at less expense to the "do it yourselfer". If I can find a little more time in the near future I will try to illustrate the differences between these parts because I believe that the 346 oiler could be "field adjusted" without replacing anything. This could be helpful to those who live a significant distance from a Husky dealer or who have noone to work with. Until then, it`s all hot air.

Russ

 

[woodturner]

Originally posted by glens
Maybe the &frac14; turn is for new Oregon chain and it's to compensate for the initial stretch (and on one particular make/model saw from days gone by).

Frank, you can also leave the saw upright and pick up on the rear handle to apply the necessary pressure to the bar tip.&nbsp; There's no convenient way I know of to make it a one-handed job.

Woodturner, I'm curious how it is you've solved your chain dilemma.

Glen

I wound up keeping the H30 & the 33SL chains, & returned the first extra chain I was sent, 920D I believe it was. I'm still not an expert, but, it is now my understanding, that as long as the pitch & gauge(.325 X .050 for my Husky 350) is correct for your particular saw & bar, then you are in business.

Now then, isn't all .325 X .050 chain, considered narrow kerf chain? Or, is my thinking all screwed up on that also?

 

[glens]

The .050 part of your question has no practical bearing on the kerf, really.&nbsp; .325 chain <i>is</i> typically narrower kerf in any product line as compared to the ³/₈ or .404 chain, but most (all?) manufacturers also make a dedicated narrower chassis/kerf chain specifically labeled as such.&nbsp; Between the different makers, the .325 chains surely cut various kerfs, I'd think (though I haven't actually measured them, an as-yet-unused loop of Oregon 35SL on the truck appears to be a little less "manly" then the equivalent (shaped-cutter) Stihl chain).

I know the Stihl 26RS chain cuts only about ¹/₁₆" narrower than the 33RS when both are new.&nbsp; Perhaps that's the reason the smaller chain works better on "lesser" saws, but I suspect the greater "flexibility" might be more of a factor.

Glen

 

[ricksvar]

Thanks for the accurate information Q,makes sence to me.

I like soft chain,it's easier to file.

Rick
AKA "Spud"(as in potato)

 

[WRW]

Slower chain speed for .325 pitch shouldn't be that much of a factor should it?

 

[Saw Man]

.325 has some benefits over 3/8"when used:
> Within the right power bands
> With weight as a consideration. B & C as a combo weigh less.
> Limbing, debranching

>325 costs more than 3/8", so manufacturers wouldn't be using it if it didn't fit certain applications.

 

[woodturner]

chain brands

1) Can Stihl chain be used on Husky saws?

2) All I see in Baileys catalog is Woodsman Pro chain. Is this good chain?