The notion that the sharper side of the chain drops easier into the wood and the duller side will take the inside of the turn and that really complicates correcting the problem. If you accept as fact that about 2/3 of the energy gets spent establishing the kerf by cutting end grain and that the more inefficient or lazy cutter will shy away from hard work (cutting the end grain) and that the more willing cutter will dig in and have to do more of its share, you can see that the cut will move away from the problem side. If you use the analogy that your car will pull towards the half flat tire, you will be wrong in applying it to a saw chain!
It seems a contradiction, but if the dull side cutters happens to be already shorter, even though they are more in need of sharpening, you may well have to file more metal off the sharp side first, to bring its cutters back to the same length as the other side of the chain. Another possible contradiction that has already been mentioned is that if you are trying to compensate for out of level bar rails or worn groove you can get some weird results.
Once you have been there and got it straight in your head what is happening it seems simple but it sure can be difficult to get your mind around it at first.