Chain sharpeners

[nomad_archer]

So the wife wants to buy me a chain sharpener for my birthday. The two that fit the budget are the Granberg or the Northerntool bench mount grinder. So which one would you go with and why. This past year was my first season cutting and I got by with the harbor freight chain sharpener which was way more aggravating than useful and gave lack luster results. I will be doing .325 semi chisel stihl chain.

Here are the opinions are welcome.

Granberg: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200308557_200308557
Northern tool: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/NTESearch?escapeXml=false&ipp=24&storeId=6970&Ntt=Chainsaw+++Sharpener

 

[lambs]

It really depends on whether or not you want to file chain or grind it. There are proponents of both, but many people use a grinder when a chain has been damaged or just to even up the cutters from time to time, even if they file most of the time.

You can search this site and read for hours about both the granberg and the NT grinder. I have an NT and the Oregon 511a on which the NT version is based. Oregon makes a better grinder in my opinion but you can do fine with the NT. It's not quite as precise, uses a lower rated motor, and has a few rough edges, but there is plenty of advice on this site on how to make it work the way it should.

With either filing or grinding, you need to gain experience to get it right. In your situation, I'd get the NT grinder and pick up the Granberg later. It's a lot cheaper, so let the wife pay for the NT!

 

[CTYank]

I use both Granberg guide (35+ years) and NT grinder (6 months back).

Granberg works best for touching up a chain that's in good shape (sometimes one stroke each) AND filing depth gauges. It works on the bar. Fits easily into my tool-bag, and goes wherever I go with a saw. Waaay better than any different file guide I've seen.

NT grinder, once fitted with much better Molemab wheels, is best at home restoring rocked or otherwise damaged chains. I've already done enough of those for some buds to pay for the grinder. Useful to clear out gullets on virgin chain. Depth gauges are another story with it. Indoors, you really need dust collection, except, I'm told with CBN or diamond wheels, that cost way more than the grinder. The OEM wheels are like something in a cartoon- big-time wobblers.

 

[nomad_archer]

Sounds like the NT is the place to start at least in this instance. Where can I find the Molemab wheels as it sounds like they are an needed accessory right out of the box.

 

[gunnusmc03]

I use both Granberg guide (35+ years) and NT grinder (6 months back).

Granberg works best for touching up a chain that's in good shape (sometimes one stroke each) AND filing depth gauges. It works on the bar. Fits easily into my tool-bag, and goes wherever I go with a saw. Waaay better than any different file guide I've seen.

NT grinder, once fitted with much better Molemab wheels, is best at home restoring rocked or otherwise damaged chains. I've already done enough of those for some buds to pay for the grinder. Useful to clear out gullets on virgin chain. Depth gauges are another story with it. Indoors, you really need dust collection, except, I'm told with CBN or diamond wheels, that cost way more than the grinder. The OEM wheels are like something in a cartoon- big-time wobblers.

Can you touch up on the issues with setting depth gauges? I was thinking about trying an NT grinder.

 

[DonnerParty]

While a grinder is a great tool to have, especially when you have a chain or two that's really beat up, I think hand-sharpening is an extremely important skill to learn. If you don't already have one, buy one of the simple Stihl file-holders and a handle, and start spending some regular time learning to sharpen by hand. Then buy the NT grinder, as well, for more serious metal removal chores.

 

[Sagetown]

Grinders are great for restoring a badly damaged, or many chains at a time. Other than that it sits idle most of the time. A file guide is great for touching up good chains, and training you how file free-handed. Have her get you both, and save you the trouble of getting the other later.

 

[nomad_archer]

The plan was to order both at the same time to save on shipping and she will cover the cost of the NT. I feel like I want both as rocks/nails and other suprises always happen. I plan on using the file jig in place of free hand filing. I have the tools to file free hand but I like the idea of using the jig instead as it will be more consistent that I could possibly be.

 

[lambs]

Sounds like the NT is the place to start at least in this instance. Where can I find the Molemab wheels as it sounds like they are an needed accessory right out of the box.

Nomad, Get the wheels you need from Bailey's, and while you are at it, order a dressing brick for them. Bailey's dressing brick is a good sized one and should last a very long time. I think it also comes with the template so you can make sure your wheel has the correct profile. It's only a few bucks.

I also use Oregon wheels at times. I think they are harder than the Molemab. Both are better than the Chinese made wheel that comes with the NT grinder.

I also have a CBN wheel for 3/8 pitch chain. It's expensive but very nice to have. You do not have to dress it or true it up, it won't load up with crud, and it will last for up to 2,000 uses before it needs to be recoated with the CBN abrasive. It also grinds a lot cooler so less risk of blueing a cutter. Did I say it was expensive? They start around 100 bucks at some sellers. The fancier ones are even more money.

 

[lambs]

Can you touch up on the issues with setting depth gauges? I was thinking about trying an NT grinder.

You set the depth gauges on a grinder with a 1/4" wide wheel. My experience with them is that it is easy to put too much pressure on the wheel and get inconsistent amounts of material removal from the depth gauges themselves. Additionally, I think the depth gauges lean outwards from the centerline of the chain, so it's difficult to get the same depth of grind from side to side without stopping to reset the depth stop as you switch to the other side of the chain. These issues are not a problem with a little practice, but if you do take them down too much, you will notice it in the vibration coming from the saw......

That said, they are very good when you need to remove a fair amount of material from the depth gauges. You just file one depth gauge on each side down to the level you want by hand, index the wheel to that depth gauge, then grind all the depth gauges on that side using the same amount of downward pressure on the wheel for each. Then switch to the other side, index the wheel to the other gauge that you filed by hand, and repeat. After grinding them all, you may need to round off the front edge of each one with a flat file to get the contour back to something like what you started with.

I have an NT set up just for depth gauges, and I like to take them down below .030", so the grinder is a must have in my book.

 

[CTYank]

Google will find you lots of hits for [molemab grinder wheels]. Amazon has good prices.
NT grinder ships with silicon carbide dressing brick and template. Likely you don't need two each.

 

[nomad_archer]

Thanks guys.