Looking for users of Dremel type chain sharpeners

[sonny580]

Dremel freehand here! -- BUT no stones! get the cheep diamond bits for them. Stones are a joke but the diamond ones hold the shape way longer.
I have a generator on my service/loggin truck as well as a small air compressor and 4" angle grinder, drill and hotplate to warm up lunch.
Every so often I take the 11 saws I carry in the truck home and true up the bars and grind the chains on an old oregon grinder. I also have a cheepo bench grinder mounted on a board in the truck to handle the oh **** hit repair! lol!
I freehand file one now and then but hands wont stand much of it so now its all machine sharpening for me.

 

[Mad Professor]

While we are talking sharpeners anybody used a Foley-Belsaw 308?

The is one close by listed at an online auction. Bidding is only at $12

 

[Okie]

Just couple hints
You say you have a 16 year old PILE OF CHAINS
and now you are thinking about re-storing them,

I cannot imagine a 16 year old pile of useable dull chains, but I know a guy that uses his chainsaw for cutting wood and clearing fence rows and every time it gets dull he goes to town and buys a new chain, He gives me his old chains. I just stay quiet and do not offer to show him how to sharpen and thank him for the good dull chains. I figure if he wanted to know how he would ask so I just mind my own business.
I would think that the main thing is to get the first one you sharpened CORRECT.
Sharpening a PILE of chains wrong would be sadness and lots of time wasted.
If I were going to start doing a big PILE of useable chains I definitely would not start with a dremel type tool and stones.

I have one but I hand file.
If you run lots of saws and do not now sharpened your own chains kinda sounds like you need to think about the bench type electric sharpener actually designed for such. Not much of a learning curve, just make sure that you know what a sharp tooth looks like and test the first first few you sharpen to see how they cut.
I started sharpening a pile of drill bits all sizes one winter day and after about 30 min's I decided I might should test my progress on a piece of steel. The ones I had sharpened on the big fancy drill doctor would not drill into soft butter. (angle slightly off due to the stone being used) I should have tested the first one I sharpened.

 

[LuDookie]

In the field I use a Dremel Lite cordless grinder to do fast touch ups, freehand. It’s quick and easy and works well as long as the chain isn’t rocked. When cutting on fence lines it never fails, I hit a staple or something and at that point I have better luck hand filing. I enjoy filing by hand anyway and that’s what I primarily do with best results.

 

[LuDookie]

Man, after making my last chain grinder post to this thread, I found discussions [on another forum] relating to converting round chain to square that are really blowing my mind! I have thought about this in the past, but I didn't know that folks were actually getting positive results doing it!?!

I’ve converted a few square to round with perfect results but not the other way around. They must really like the way the square ground cuts. I can’t tell enough difference to ever put that much work into a chain. I’ve always been in such a hurry to keep cutting, it took me forever to start wanting to use a hand file.

 

[huskihl]

While we are talking sharpeners anybody used a Foley-Belsaw 308?

The is one close by listed at an online auction. Bidding is only at $12View attachment 1097729

Never used one but widely considered one of the best

 

[Sidecarflip]

Just ran 80 loops for one of my arborist customers and tossed a few where the drive tangs had rust on them. Rust on drive tangs will destroy a bar pretty quick. No hand files or dremels here, just 2 Tecomec chain grinders, one to sharpen the cutters and the other to cut the depth gages if necessary and both running Diamond Abrasive CBN wheels.

All about consistent grinds on both left and right hand cutters.

He's using them right now and I saw him today and asked him how they were running to which he replied, 'better than new loops'.

Ran 404 skip tooth chipper, 325 chipper and a bunch of 1/4" PICO loops (which I'm not fond of) because of the what I consider wonky depth gages.

Also ran 24 Bandit chipper knives for him as well.

 

[Alabama Disaster Relief]

While we are talking sharpeners anybody used a Foley-Belsaw 308?

The is one close by listed at an online auction. Bidding is only at $12View attachment 1097729

I'd love to have that in my shop. Even if it doesn't work, I'd set it up just to look at it. In the early 60's my dad would take his rocked or nailed chains to "The" hardware store in town and have them sharpened. I loved to watch.

 

[Philbert]

I’ve used Dremel type tools for touch ups. But for your volume of chains, and for consistency, I would recommend a standard size (5-3/4” wheel) grinder.

You can find a basic, Tecomec grinder for $230 shipped, by seller ArcherPlus on eBay.

At 30 chains sharpened, you are ‘even’ with a paid sharpening service. The rest is gravy. Plus, you still own the machine.

I have also sharpened hundreds (thousands?) of chains for volunteer disaster groups, which are very hard on chains, due to both debris, and limited field sharpening experience.

This style grinder has stood up to that use, and comes with better quality wheels (the parts that actually do the grinding) than the cheaper clone grinders.

Philbert

 

[Sidecarflip]

Me, I'm really not into old used chain grinders but at the same time, I really don't like spending 200 plus on an Oregon (Tecomec) chain grinder and I prefer CBN wheels over the 'have to keep dressing frequently' stone wheels so...

I have 2 grinders, one Oregon with the manual chain loop clamp (don't care for the hydraulic clamp device, never have, just more parts to eventually fail that need to be replaced (and the replacement parts aren't cheap), so...

Besides the Oregon (Tecomec) I have, I took a chance and purchased a Veyvor chain grinder from Amazon for 109 bucks delivered.

I was very apprehensive in as much as it's a Chinese clone and I figured for 109 bucks, it wasn't much and would not be accurate or sturdy enough to hold the grind angles consistently.

I was wrong.

The Veyvor Chinese Oregon clone is a really good value and the wheel depth control is actually better (more solid and repeatable) that the Oregon (Tecomec). It is a bench mount, not a wall mount, no big deal, I mounted it on a 2x6 block of wood, which I 'C' clamp to my bench. It's a mirror copy of the Oregon (Tecomec) chain grinder and it mounts the CBN wheels I prefer running.

I actually set (grind my cutter teeth with it now and I have the Oregon set up just for grinding depth gages.


The only downside to the Veyvor is the head balance spring is a bit weak but you can purchase an Oregon spring and replace it as all the Oregon parts will interchange plus the Veyvor chain clamping device is much more robust than the Oregon.

The wheel guard on the Veyvor is a bit clunky to remove and install but I don't use wheel guards on either grinder because unlike the stone wheels, the CBN wheels are perfectly balanced (the wheels themselves are aluminum with the CBN coating on the outer edge and they do not 'explode', ever.

For 109 bucks, delivered (probably less with Prime), it's quite a bargain and I recommend it.

Of course I recommend the Diamond Abrasives, CBN wheels as well. You can run over 750 20" loops and never touch them and you never redress them ever. Initial cost isn't cheap (around 100 bucks each, delivered, but, if you factor in how many stone wheels you will go through (if you sharpen a lot of chain loops like I do), the CBN wheels are quite affordable.

 

[Ed Penney]

I use a dremel with a stone, freehand. Cleaning the sap off the chain keeps the stone from clogging up. I try to sharpen before they lose their edge. The stones wear out really quick if your tooth is starting to roll over. I will use a file to remove the roll over if it's bad, then a stone to finish. I keep a thumb on the tooth when sharpening, soon as it gets warm I will go to the next tooth (I try not to overheat). Couple times around and it's done. Every 2sd time I sharpen I will knock the rakers down the width of the kerf. The sharpened edge on the flat and the radius should be the the same width throughout or you don't have he correct angle. Most quality chains have wear markers embossed on the tooth, it's also the same angle of the kerf. I know everyone has there own little technique. this one has been working fine for me for a long time. Never a dull moment.

 

[Sidecarflip]

My issue with a Dremel type sharpener (and I have one but don't use it) is, no matter how steady you are, holding the correct tooth angle across all the cutters is basically impossible, whereas a chainsaw grinder will achieve that very consistently, even the 109 buck Chinese knockoff I bought will do that. Hand sharpening with a Dremel type sharpener will always be inconsistent and inconsistent tooth angles as well as inconsistent material removal across the entire loop will always cause the loop to cut lopperjawed.

 

[fields_mj]

I've had as many as 10 or 12 men cutting. I coach them to swap saws as soon as they detect the saw isn't cutting as well as it did to start with. I also ask them not to put down pressure on the bar. If you have to put pressure on it, it needs sharpened. I think the whole town of Jacksonville is built on a huge hog farm. Every tree was full of wire or nails, some were 10' up the tree and 10" deep. There was two crews cutting and the neighbors were bringing their saws for me to repair. After that job I began to consider using a the Stihl grinder. I burned it up on the next job. I tried a battery operated Dremel but the battery didn't last very long. We have a generator on the trailer now so I use my old Harbor Freight pencil grinder. I have two Tecomic bench grinders. One setup to sharpen the teeth and the other to take down the gauges. On the last day I try to have sharp chains on all the saws and the clutch and covers cleaned out. I dump the gas out of the tanks and run them until they die. I take home saws that need work and chains that are rocked or nailed. It's just too hectic to use a bench grinder in

I've had as many as 10 or 12 men cutting. I coach them to swap saws as soon as they detect the saw isn't cutting as well as it did to start with. I also ask them not to put down pressure on the bar. If you have to put pressure on it, it needs sharpened. .

I'm very picky about keeping my chains sharp, and for the same reason I keep my butcher knives sharp. I've learned that I am the exception and not ther rule, at least in regards to saw chains

If my main job is going to be sharpening chains, I'm going to design a system that I can take with me. Currently I have a 5" vice mounted to some 2" sq tube that goes into my receiver. It's adjustable so that it puts the saw at a good work height. I also added a receiver to my trailer. The set up works well for maintaining a couple of saws, but if sharpening chains was my primary task, I'd develop a portable bench to work with (complete with a chair or stool).

We normally have 4 to 6 Sawyers, 2 or 3 tracked skidd steers with grapples and at least 1 mini with a thumb. In Benton KY last year I think we had 3x that, but that wasn't really normal. We were on the banks of Kentucky lake, and that really sucked. Grade was so steep and long that you didn't dare want to have to walk back up to the trucks.

 

[Ed Penney]

I know your a machinist and are use to accurate measuring. I could use my disc sharpener to get it as close as I could to perfect (it's a Chicago cheapy)even a file jig for that matter. I field sharpen a 28 inch skip tooth in less than 5 minutes and they cut just fine, yes they sometimes get a little out of kilter. I buck wood that's it, ain't looking for a clean cut. just quick. I usually sharpen a chain 3 times maybe 4 then it goes in the metal scrap pile. When I sharpen at home I use a tool rest set up with the angle and old bar for a guide mark the teeth with a sharpie to keep the teeth close to the same size. I took my chains too a Stihl dealer cause they had an automated sharpener. The chain would only get sharpened one time, at $13 each I quit doing that, like I said I could do it 3 or four time and never noticed any difference in it's cutting performance

 

[Philbert]

I’ve set up grinders at the side of the road, on step ladders, and with the Oregon portable stand.

For filing, I have bore cut through a large round, noodled a deep kerf in a log, and found a large stump for a vise.

All let me, and others, sharpen many chains. All would work with a Dremel type tool too.

Oregon has a few trailers that they bring to large disasters, to sharpen chains for free.

Philbert

 

[Dusty1]

Used an Oregon dremel type on the job with good results. For a quick touch up, I hand file. But if I really want a great job done, I drop them off at my local feed store and JT does 'em up for $3 ea, any size.

At that price, it's not worth my time to do it myself. I have collected a lot of chains over the years, as a result of making friends and relatives buy them for me when I am doing them favors (trimming/removal). It's quicker to change a chain than it is to drag out the stump vice and file or grinder

 

[NSEric]

I free hand with the dremel and diamond sharpening stones with good results. Im not after perfect as im cutting dirty fire wood most of the time and they dont stay sharp long.
I forgot to add to my other post in this thread...
I sharpen both sides of the chain from the right of the saw when using the dremel, this makes it pull down into the gullet and stops it from wanting to jump up out of the tooth.

 

[Ed Penney]

I free hand with the dremel and diamond sharpening stones with good results. Im not after perfect as im cutting dirty fire wood most of the time and they dont stay sharp long.
I forgot to add to my other post in this thread...
I sharpen both sides of the chain from the right of the saw when using the dremel, this makes it pull down into the gullet and stops it from wanting to jump up out of the tooth.

 

[Ed Penney]

I pretty much do it the same way. I will take 5 minutes and sharpen it if I have to put alot of effort into the cut.

 

[fields_mj]

I guess in the spirit of pictures and words and such, here is my current setup. The vice is a cheap one from harbor freight. In the first pic, the bar (28") has an old Arnold Precision sharpener on it that my dad gave me. I often use a Timberline (and a cordless drill) to maintain my saws now, but this works for hand filing and for using a Dremel. The entire contraption is 4 pcs. The vice is bolted to a piece of (scrap) angle iron that's bolted to a piece of 2" sq tubing. The vertical piece has several 1/2" holes (actually 17/32") drilled through for height adjustment. It runs down to a Tee that I made from a piece of 2" sq tube, a piece of 2-1/2" sq tube, and some 1/2-20 nuts and bolts. It has a 1/2" through hole that a bolt goes through much like the pin on a hitch. The 1/2-20 nuts are welded on so that the bolts can clamp it and take up the slop. FYI, a 19mm scrench fits the 3/4" head of a 1/2" bolt perfectly. The 3rd piece is an extension that allows me to use the thing with my tailgate down. Again, 2" sq tube, but I didn't have any 2-1/2" handy at the time so I just cut some scrap 1/4" bar stock and welded it into a box. I used a scrap piece of 2" tube as a form to clamp the pieces to when welding it together. I stuck a couple of washers between the plates and tube to ensure I had enough clearance. Drilled a few holes in the newly welded box, added more 1/2-20 hardware, then welded it all to the end of the 2" sq tube to make the extension. The other end has a 5/8" (actually 41/64") hole for a hitch pin.

The 2nd pic is from the bottom side of the vice to show the wood blocks I've added so that the vice grabs the bar and not the chain, and it keeps me from dropping the cutters onto the metal parts of the vice when clamping and unclamping the saw.

Don't laugh too hard. In the spirit of procrastination, a lot of this was assembled the night before leaving for a disaster area. It was always the stuff I wanted to upgrade based on the last trip but couldn't find the time to actually do.

What I DON"T have a picture of is the setup I had on my last truck (93 F250 long bed). My 6" bench vice in my shop is mounted to an 8" square aluminum 3/8" plate. I drilled 1/2" clearance holes on all 4 corners and bolted the plate to the bench with 1/2-13 bolts. On my tailgate, I welded up a frame that was attached to the tailgate using self tapping sheet metal screws. The frame had 1/2" thick tabs welded to it that I then drilled and tapped for 1/2-13 threads so I could drop my tailgate and bolt my bench vice to it. The work height was a few inches shorter than I would have liked, but it was extremely stable and I loved using it. The only draw back is that the frame wasn't removable and it happened to be right in the way when trying to use a loading ramp for an ATV. My next truck will probably be some form of older cab and chassis work truck. I will add provisions to the rear bumper to allow the use of my bench vice at an appropriate work height.