Chain slack driving me crazy......

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You can check the pitch right now. Just measure center to center between any 3 rivets in the chain and divide by 2. Do it on the FC chain that works and the new SC chain that doesn't and compare.

Chris
 
Okay, you are going to have to educate me on this one, what is a Picco style chain?
Please excuse my ignorance! I have heard the term, but dont know what it is.

See:http://stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html

Note that the link above does not list the 0.050 3/8 picco but it is found on the chain suggestion guide on sthil's website. It is a low profile chain that produces less kerf and needs less HP to pull. Made for small saws/limbing saws but also works good on larger saws used for milling when set up with proper bar/sprockets and ground to ca. 10 degrees.

I'm not sure if other brands of low profile chain requires different sprockets but I'm sure someone here will fill us in soon.
 
Okay, you are going to have to educate me on this one, what is a Picco style chain?
Please excuse my ignorance! I have heard the term, but dont know what it is.


Low Profile 3/8" chain, made for the smallest saws around.

They have different drive tangs from the regular 3/8 chains, and require different sprockets.
 
There is no stampings on the drive links, even though this is supposed to be an Oregon chain. The box was handwritten 72LG84. I thought the 72 series was .050 gauge. If the gauge was too big, it wouldnt fit between the rails, would it?


Something obviously doesn't add up, as LG is chisel, not semi-chisel.....:censored:

Moron dealer, most likely is part of the issue! :monkey: :monkey:
 
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Something obviously doesn't add up, as LG is chisel, not semi-chisel.....:censored:

Moron dealer, most likely is part of the issue! :monkey: :monkey:
Ah, you may be on to something here, I looked at several boxes(empty ones) in the toolbox on the truck, and they too have the same 72 series listed. they were full chisel like you mentioned. Maybe the "moron" part is a little more applicable than I first suspected here.

I am familiar with a low profile chain, in fact I have a few when running the 372 on my mill, and they are very different than these semi chisel. I didnt know that the term picco referred to to these chains. Thanks for the info! Learn something new every day.
 
Ah, you may be on to something here, I looked at several boxes(empty ones) in the toolbox on the truck, and they too have the same 72 series listed. they were full chisel like you mentioned. Maybe the "moron" part is a little more applicable than I first suspected her

The 72 would be the same for chisel or semi in 3/8 /.375 pitch and .50 gauge. It's the LG that designates chisel. You want MLP (newest Oregon semi) or MJP older stock called Super 70 Multicut.
 
The 72 would be the same for chisel or semi in 3/8 /.375 pitch and .50 gauge. It's the LG that designates chisel. You want MLP (newest Oregon semi) or MJP older stock called Super 70 Multicut.

Multicut is not SEMI CHISEL it is full chisel but with more layers of chrome. Semi chisel 72 chain is DG which has a pattern like LG or DP which has a pattern like LP



Scott
 
This post is interesting because recently I solved a chain issue on a Stihl 031AV. Owner said the saw never has in years at least, cut straight. I checked and sure enough he has .050 on a .063 bar. then I got to thinking.... in past times never has any shop that ever made me a chain asked what gauge bar I was using. luckily my bars where all .050 and the chain was too. I now make my own so I know what I've got. Also we recently caught a bad rivet job and a chain made at a dealer. It was ready to break when I caught it.

I wonder if these shops just really don't know or just don't care if they can make a sale?
 
I have had the exact problem on a couple of my saws:dizzy: New unscratched chain to sprocket combo maybe? Or distance between teeth on new chain different than old chain.

Try moving the chain around forward and backward, sometimes one way will make it tight and the other way will make it loose:dizzy:

Sometimes the teeth will jump in and out of the warn places in the sprocket causing what you are describing.
 
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I would measure three rivets (center to center) with a caliper and divide by two that will tell you the pitch. I don't know if it is .404 or .325 or whatever but I would guess the pitch doesn't match the sprocket. I always turn the chain by hand before doing any cutting on a new chain to avoid this type of problem. I buy .050 gauge bars and the bigger gauge won't fit.
 
Well, the trip to the saw shop was pointless. I took both saws in, and them look at everything. They observed for themselves the chain self tightening, and I pointed out that the chain was moving forward on the sprocket, and finally binding on the sprocket itself. Indicates to me that this chain is NOT a
.375 with a .050 gauge, its something else.
Man behind the counter said, nope, its a worn sprocket. A sprocket worn out with ten hours on it? Yep, that what you got.
Fine, then you owe me a sprocket, cauze I bought it here.
Man finally produced a new sprocket, installed it, and guess what? same thing.
then I pointed out the lack of markings on the drive tabs always found on a Oregon chain, he pulled the reel out from behind the counter, and what was left of the chain length did not have markings on the tabs as well, but the reel clearly said Oregon on it. Size indicated that it was .375 with a .050 gauge.
Since he did not have any more semi chisel chains, and since I had used both chains a bit, no refund either.
Back at home now, put full chisel on both saws, they both cut and run just fine.
Clearly, I will be looking for a new saw shop to take my business too. You would have thought that it would have been worth it to him to keep my business, but I guess not.
Ordering my semi chisel as we speak from Bailey's, at least I know from past experience the stand behind their products.:censored:
 
Well, the trip to the saw shop was pointless. I took both saws in, and them look at everything. ....
Man behind the counter said, nope, its a worn sprocket. A sprocket worn out with ten hours on it?


Just out of curiosity, was the guy behind the counter the owner of the shop? If not, I'd at least touch base with him and let him know that his employees sold you the wrong chain (by accident, it seems), and what all has transpired. Keep it positive, and let him know that you'd rather keep doing business with him if possible, but not if things like this are going to happen. Of course, if you have several nearby shops to choose from, shop around. I really look at how companies handle problems, the ones who won't at least compromise to solve an issue obviously have more than enough money already, and don't need mine. Of course, there are enough customers who want a free saw if you sell them a jug of oil that has a scratch on the label, so they just might have had a bunch of those kind of customer come through right before you.
 
.... Clearly, I will be looking for a new saw shop to take my business too. You would have thought that it would have been worth it to him to keep my business, but I guess not.
Ordering my semi chisel as we speak from Bailey's, at least I know from past experience the stand behind their products.:censored:

Past experiences like this are exactly why I :
1. Work on my saws myself.
2. Buy all parts possible online.
3. Distrust dealers in general (though some are great, but this has to be proven).
4. Own no Stihl chainsaws (and as of the new policy, Huskys included).

b&m's big advantage must be built upon service and trust. Without this, what do they offer?

Dan
 
Just out of curiosity, was the guy behind the counter the owner of the shop? If not, I'd at least touch base with him and let him know that his employees sold you the wrong chain (by accident, it seems), and what all has transpired. Keep it positive, and let him know that you'd rather keep doing business with him if possible, but not if things like this are going to happen. Of course, if you have several nearby shops to choose from, shop around. I really look at how companies handle problems, the ones who won't at least compromise to solve an issue obviously have more than enough money already, and don't need mine. Of course, there are enough customers who want a free saw if you sell them a jug of oil that has a scratch on the label, so they just might have had a bunch of those kind of customer come through right before you.
Thats the sad part of the whole deal, it was the owner himself. The last time that i was in the shop i got a funny feeling about the whole place when they charged me 19 bucks for a sprocket bearing for my little Echo, online I found the same bearing for 3 bucks, but of coarse that was later.....
this last deal was the kicker for me. I know by asking them questions that they generally dont deal with anything but the homeowner types when it comes to saws, but wrong it wrong no matter how you cut it. But on the bright side, at least this way I am not out any major bucks, they charged by 21 bucks a loop, they could have gotten me on something a whole lot major.
I have always bought chain bulk and made my own loops, generally from Bailey's, but in this case I wanted to see if they semi chisel was going to help me out before I bought a whole spool.
Well, you cant win them all I guess. Thanks for everyone and their thoughts on this matter.
 
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