Chain/sprocket/bar

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scotchguy

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2005
Messages
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Location
Scotland
Hi Guys,

I'd be grateful for some more advice about the set-up on the Stihl 064 I got from ebay. The saw runs great since Fish advised me to ignore the Stihl spec sheet and fill it with 50:1 mixture. However, it has a well worn chain with plenty of chips on the cutters which are also filed to a variety of different angles! I could file off the damage but I thought I would start off my life with this saw with a new chain. I therefore took it off to have a good look at the bar and the drive sprocket at the same time and this is where my confusion began.

First let me explain. About 25 years ago when I was about 25 my dad finally had to admit that I was old enough to be allowed to use the chain saws. Up to that time he made my hump the brush and logs. Since then he has taken exclusive charge of the sharpening. He is not satisfied unless the saw is producing long shavings like bits of apple peal. Any time I make a move towards a file he tells me to leave it alone as it is beyond my abilities. That was OK with me as it was like having my own chain tech. However, now that he is enjoying a spell in hospital after his second by-pass (ex-smoker but won't stop eating), I find I don't know what's going on. So, I have a number of questions as follows:

1 Was the last owner of this saw an idiot? The Stihl manual says this saw can have an 8-tooth 3/8 inch sprocket or a 7-tooth 0.404 inch sprocket. When I looked at the chain it had 3/8 stamped on it, the bar has "1.6 3/8 30 inch" stamped on it and the drive sprocket has 7 teeth. Am I missing something, or is this sprocket the wrong one for this bar and chain? Also, what does the 1.6 mean?

2 How much wear is allowed on the sprocket before it should be changed? On this saw each sprocket tooth has a shiny central notch on either side that does not pass over the crown. This looks like it was machined and like it is supposed to be there. On either side of this there is another smaller shiny notch that does cross the crown of the sprocket tooth … these look a bit uneven on different sprocket teeth and look like they might be the result of wear or the fact that this saw possibly has the wrong sprocket for the bar and chain.

3 When I count the links on this chain I find there are 48 cutters and 97 drive links. I thought I had miscounted until I noticed that at two different positions round the chain there is an extra drive link inserted between adjacent cutters. What is the explanation for this? Is this chain home made off a roll or what?

4 Is it really necessary to soak a new chain in an oil bath over night before fitting?

5 Should you really change the drive sprocket every two chains?

6 Should you really file only in one direction, or can you file back and forward when removing a lot of material because of damage on the cutters.

Thanks in advance, Ronald.


OFF TOPIC

While I'm writing I would just like to say that I was talking to my neighbor who is head of the casualty department at a large city hospital. He was complaining about the number of .22 air gun pellets he had to remove each day from children and the brain damage caused by the head shots. Anyway, I asked him about chainsaw injuries and he said he never got any. That cheered me up a lot but after reading the forum for reporting injuries on this sight, I am going to be VERY VERY careful with this big Stihl. I'm a small guy and it’s a real beast.

Also:

Does anybody know my very good friend the arborist TODD WOOD , ex of Louisiana and Boston and last heard of in Austin, Texas. If so, please give him my warmest regards.
 
1.6 is the width of the drivers in mm. If you divide 1.6 by 25.4 (mm/inch) you will get 0.063" this is 75 gauge chain. You could run 7 or 8 tooth sprocket on that saw. The 8 tooth gives you a 14.3% increase in chain speed but at the cost of 14.3% less torque to the chain.
 
scotchguy said:
4 Is it really necessary to soak a new chain in an oil bath over night before fitting?

I don't know much about chain saws, but I know that my father always insisted on this with any chain on any mechanical device.

Based on the results I've seen him get with various things mechanical over the decades, I've learned to shut up and take his advice, even if it seems wacky.

Mebbe it's useless, but what can it hurt?
 
Oregon selector guide lists the Stihl 064 with 30" bar, 3/8" pitch, 0.063 gauge to have 98 drive links using a 7 tooth sprocket. The sprocket is replaced every 2 chains or sooner. Change when wear is 0.015" - 0.020". File the chain only on the forward stroke. Or you will wear the file out prematurely.
http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/ms_manual/ms_09.pdf
 
For your first quesiton, you've got a 3/8- 7 rim on there, which is fine, but that saw should have no problem with an 8 pin rim on there. As for your second question, if there's any doubt about your sprocket wear, change it. I don't know about over there, but here a new rim is like $5. You can use Ray's advice which I'm sure is spot-on, but I've always just looked at it, and changed it when I thought it looked like it needed it. The two chains per sprocket is a good guideline, but how tight you run your chain and other variables will dictate how often you need a new one. I don't bother soaking my chains in anything, but I do keep them clean and oiled on the bar between usees. And yes, only file away from you, in one direction, just like you'd file anytyhing. Your edge will suffer filing in both directions.

Jeff
 
It sounds like your loop of chain was put together with two shorter pieces. If you notice any notch on the sprocket, then it is wore out, and should be replaced with
a new one. If it is not a rim sprocket I would change it to one, and get both a 7 tooth, and an 8 tooth rim, and see which cuts better for you.
Generally, you do not want to see long apple peel shavings, but nice little chips. Do a search back, several members posted different charts regarding proper
sharpening.{Mine was the best}
As to the type of chain/cutter you should get, I will defer to the other guys,
as big saws are rare around here. The RS chain is very popular here, because it is
more aggressive.
 
Now,providing all this info was on the level,those long chips are indicative of chipper chain in certain woods.I don't have a clue what type trees grow in Scotland but my old antiques,with chipper,will pull a long frence fry chip in green maple.
 
scotchguy said:
........
3 When I count the links on this chain I find there are 48 cutters and 97 drive links. I thought I had miscounted until I noticed that at two different positions round the chain there is an extra drive link inserted between adjacent cutters. What is the explanation for this? Is this chain home made off a roll or what?. .......
It is normal for a 97DL standard compliment chain to have 48 cutters.
What is not normal here is that there are two spots with an extra DL between the cutters, it should be only one to add up.
Are you sure that there isn't a spot where there are two cutters in row, without any DL in between?
 

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