Chain they gave me

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AaronB

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Here is the chain they gave me, when I picked up my saw. They said it was a ripping chain.

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html#RSLFK

The link should open up with it first on the list but Its the 8th one down on the left side, it the one right above the category "specialty chains" called OILOMATIC® STIHL RAPID™ Super L Full Skip Klassic (RSLFK)

Since I had no preference they said it was a ripping chain and would work. Hope it does, not sure I can take it back since they don't stock this type. Does this chain look like it will work.
 
Someone lied to you.

It appears to be full skip crosscut chain, the kind typically used by loggers.

That said, you can still use it for milling, it's just not ideal for that application. The cut may be a little rough, that's all. As the chain dulls and has to be sharpened, you might try re-sharpening to 10 degrees instead of the usual 30 degrees. Do this gradually over several sharpenings. The 10 degree angle should produce a smoother cut.

If money is tight, try a loop of Bailey's milling chain.

If money is no object, the Granberg milling chain is supposed to be the best.

Without knowing the pitch, gage, and length of your bar, I can't offer a more specific recommendation.
 
Someone lied to you.

It appears to be full skip crosscut chain, the kind typically used by loggers.

That said, you can still use it for milling, it's just not ideal for that application. The cut may be a little rough, that's all. As the chain dulls and has to be sharpened, you might try re-sharpening to 10 degrees instead of the usual 30 degrees. Do this gradually over several sharpenings. The 10 degree angle should produce a smoother cut.

If money is tight, try a loop of Bailey's milling chain.

If money is no object, the Granberg milling chain is supposed to be the best.

Without knowing the pitch, gage, and length of your bar, I can't offer a more specific recommendation.

Thanks for the tips, guess I will try to re-sharpen it for milling, stinks that it wont be real smooth though. I am going to try to take them back, but since this is not a "stocked" item I am not sure they will. I might be able to exchange them but I would have to tell them which chain I wanted, since they don't seem to know.

Did you see one on that link I posted that would work? Maybe if they don't make a ripping chain I will just get regular chains for felling, and knocking down to size, then I will have some on hand. Then I can order the ripping chains from Baileys.

I have 3/8 x .050 and 36" & 24" bar (measured from the front of saw as Stihl does, not the entire bar, they measure cutting length)
 
I have a loop of RSLFK chain - it actually worked pretty good when I used it for milling chestnut and maple. The angle on the cutters was about 12 degrees when I got the chain new in the package, and the quality of the cuts wasn't bad at all and only a tiny bit rougher than with true milling chains - maybe one additional pass through the planer.

Having said that, I've not bothered to sharpen the chain since it requires a special file *and* jig to get a proper edge on the cutters. As I haven't had the urge to spend those additional bucks, the chain hangs in the garage...along with a few others. THe place I bought the chain from, Sharpening Mechanics, wants almost as much as the chain cost new to sharpen it...

I've kind of learned that cut smoothness has a lot to do with the quality of the bar and chain. If the bar doesn't control the chain (read: bar and chain aren't worn out) side-to-side within a hundred-fifty microns or so (0.006") it's pointless to bother milling as the chain just flops all over the place. Best results always seem to come with newish bars and freshly sharpened chains that haven't yet stretched too much. The Bailey's milling chain ain't bad BTW.

All IMO. Some disagree and as always, YMMV.
 
one last question, could the ones they gave me be used for cross cutting? Then I could just order some from Baileys and have cross cutting and ripping chains.
 
I use skip chain for my milling but I know I am going to run my boards through a planer.
 
The skip chain they sold you is ideal for cross cutting, so no need to throw it away.

That's awesome. I just think I will use the 2 they gave me for that, then order from Baileys and be good to go. They also gave me a 24" chain of that same kind for the 24" bar (plus some other "regular" chain for the 24", so I will have cross cutting for it as well.

Works out good in the end, that's all I wanted.
Thanks
 
Stihl RM (semi-chisel) works pretty well for milling, but full skip chisel just plain sucks! Don't even bother trying to convert the skip chisel to milling configuration as its too grabby and leaves a rough finish. Save the skip chain for cross cutting.

I've used Bailey's milling chain, and like it, and my 2nd choice is Stihl RM. RM is also a cross cut chain, but cuts quickly and smoothly when milling. IMO, Stihl makes the best chain, but converting 30* top plate angles to 10* takes too much off the cutters to justify it. The cutters are full length on Bailley's chain with the shallow angle already cut.
 
Full skip chisel chain would be a great option for your 36" bar if you don't mind a somewhat rougher cut. It's nice for long bars that you might use for initial squaring cuts on larger logs with a mill, because it'll cut a fair bit faster and there are fewer cutters to sharpen if you hit some dirty bark etc. I can't recommend it for your 24" bar though, at least based on my own experiences. I have a 24" skip setup for my big Huskies, and it does cut quick, but very rough. As the wood gets narrower, there are a lot fewer cutters in the wood at any given time with skip chain, and more cutters help stabilize the chain to keep it cutting straighter. For narrower, clean wood, the best option is 3/8" low-profile semi-chisel. Cuts like a hot knife through butter, and extremely smooth as well.
 

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