Chainsaw ID and decomp deletes

[bushrats]

Hey gang,
Picked up a new project saw the other day. Was told it’s an 066 but looks to me like a 660? Also what’s everyone’s thoughts on decomp deletes and how do you go about it?
Cheers

 

[pioneerguy600]

Stihl supplies a special plug, available through any Stihl dealer or on here in the Trading Post as most any of the Stihl guys on here would have spares but shipping does come into sourcing parts over this side of the big pond. There is also a few Aussies on this site that may be able to help you. Almost forgot to add, that is a MS660 looking at the recoil assembly.

 

[spuldup]

I do it on all saws because all decomp valves leak a little bit, and can get bumped while in use. You just need a decomp plug. I always plug them and put on an Elastostart handle assembly to make up for it lacking.

Side note: was the saw stored outside? The head looks to have some funky corrosion.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I’d suggest you leave it in, it reduces the load on the recoil system. Where in WA are you?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Late 066 early 660 there is not a whole lot of difference visually apart from the top cover badge.
Personally I would say with that particular wreck- you are a long way from considering a decompression delete, get it assembled first and see if it is still viable as a saw.
Unless the compression is well down- I would be keeping the valve, replacing it with a new OEM one if it leaks.

 

[ammoaddict]

I would vote to leave it in as well. A Husqvarna decomp will fit it also. That's what I have in my 660 kit saw.

 

[L34]

Carb box also looks 660.

 

[bushrats]

The piston and cylinder look to be in good condition, I popped a carby from another 660 I have and got it to pop a few times with a few drops of fuel down it so I think a full rebuild is on the cards. Just gotta decide wether to go chineseses or oem there is a lot missing but it’s the only project saw I have left to work on can’t keep avoiding it any longer haha

 

[bushrats]

I’d suggest you leave it in, it reduces the load on the recoil system. Where in WA are you?

Just near Bunbury mate. It has a bent decomp pin so deciding wether to plug it or replace it

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Nice mate, I’m close to Perth. Edit: replace

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

The piston and cylinder look to be in good condition, I popped a carby from another 660 I have and got it to pop a few times with a few drops of fuel down it so I think a full rebuild is on the cards. Just gotta decide wether to go chineseses or oem there is a lot missing but it’s the only project saw I have left to work on can’t keep avoiding it any longer haha

Use Asian plastics if you must and cannot find another wreck for parts- use a genuine decomp to replace as the Asian ones tend to leak- or worse drop the internal bell end of the valve into the cylinder.
But do not use Asian rubber hoses or internal engine components on this- they are just not up to the same quality.

 

[ammoaddict]

That's been my experience as well.

 

[Sidecarflip]

If you go the Chinese carb route, buy 2 at once, that way you will probably wind up with one that works... maybe.

 

[ammoaddict]

If you go the Chinese carb route, buy 2 at once, that way you will probably wind up with one that works... maybe.

I've had good luck with the hipa brand carbs. 3 out of 3 have been flawless.

 

[Sidecarflip]

Lucky you. It took 2 to get a good one for my Lincoln engine drive welder. First one, the drill ways weren't finished but the second one was.

Never did a carb on a chainsaw so I cannot speak for them.

 

[ammoaddict]

Lucky you. It took 2 to get a good one for my Lincoln engine drive welder. First one, the drill ways weren't finished but the second one was.

Never did a carb on a chainsaw so I cannot speak for them.

I went through that with the no name brand carbs from ebay and Amazon. The Hipa brand ones have worked great