Chainsaw mill "hybrid"

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AndyB89

AndyB89

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So im looking into building a mill that is kinda like the one in the video :


Im going to use a lawn tractor engine with a four post sliding head and a 32" bar
my questions are
- have any of you build something like this?
-How do you tighten chain?
-what would you use as your rail slide? bearing? rollers?
- whats the best way to raise and lower your bar to cut different thicknesses.

If any one has done this type of mill before please respond maybe add some pictures...
 
machinisttx

machinisttx

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Preface: I haven't built a mill yet. I will probably be modifying an old boat trailer. I'd probably avoid using anything over 10hp, and I suspect you'll want some type of speed multiplier to increase chain speed. I'd use a similar tensioner system as what's on a saw. As far as the height adjustment, a couple of pieces of all thread(one per side), with gears, chain, and a crank handle.
 
AndyB89

AndyB89

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I own most things, engine, bar, most metal tubing. I wont be spending much money, and I'm looking to build more of a rough slab cutting machine I'm not looking to cut veneer with it. And a bandsaw takes alot more knowledge with cuts bands can dive or cup in the wood. I would have to spend more money on tires or some type of wheel drive.
 
Karl Robbers

Karl Robbers

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I own most things, engine, bar, most metal tubing. I wont be spending much money, and I'm looking to build more of a rough slab cutting machine I'm not looking to cut veneer with it. And a bandsaw takes alot more knowledge with cuts bands can dive or cup in the wood. I would have to spend more money on tires or some type of wheel drive.
All valid points. I would second BobL's advice though and support the bar at both ends. I reckon you will set yourself up for a whole world of hurt and frustration otherwise.
 
thenne1713

thenne1713

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I own most things, engine, bar, most metal tubing. I wont be spending much money, and I'm looking to build more of a rough slab cutting machine I'm not looking to cut veneer with it. And a bandsaw takes alot more knowledge with cuts bands can dive or cup in the wood. I would have to spend more money on tires or some type of wheel drive.
A chain can dive/ cup also, if sharpened wrong (more to one side); the Logosol m-8 book is a good resource, when read closely; Sharpening is the key to chain or band
 
Sawyer Rob

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Buy a used BSM and spend all the EXTRA time you will have, learning to sharpen/set bands, that will take care of 99 plus % of the cutting problems you mentioned.

In the end, you will be SO MUCH better off with a BSM and glad you went that route....

SR
 
Jimmy in NC

Jimmy in NC

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Buy a used BSM and spend all the EXTRA time you will have, learning to sharpen/set bands, that will take care of 99 plus % of the cutting problems you mentioned.

In the end, you will be SO MUCH better off with a BSM and glad you went that route....

SR


Very wise words there. I thought I'd get into milling cheaply. After talking to many people I finally just bought a Granberg 30" and a Granberg MiniMill. Add in the two 394xp's I have and a 372 and the 37", 32", 24" bars, loops of chain, etc I could have mostly paid for a decent used band mill.
 
hamish

hamish

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Very wise words there. I thought I'd get into milling cheaply. After talking to many people I finally just bought a Granberg 30" and a Granberg MiniMill. Add in the two 394xp's I have and a 372 and the 37", 32", 24" bars, loops of chain, etc I could have mostly paid for a decent used band mill.
New my mill was about the cost of your three saws and accessories (using Canadian costs for everything).
 
gemniii

gemniii

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I've got a CSM and BSM.
IF you can AFFORD it get a BSM for making lumber and a CSM for making slabs. My Woodmizer LT10 w/ 10HP does fine on about 2' and smaller wood. My 660's will handle 30". I expect my 088 will do bigger.
That video shows cutting some nice SMALL logs.
CSM is great for portable, moderate cost, and capability to do wide trees at low cost.
BSM is great for production.
 

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