Climbing Gear Help Please?

[archangel95]

I have a climbing class in about 3 weeks with an equipment list that says

"bring your gear"

Well I don't have any gear yet.

Could somebody point me toward a good starter kit for climbing?

 

[VA-Sawyer]

How serious are you about this ?

Have you used any gear for climbing before ?

What kind of budget do you have ?

Your question is almost like saying " What kind of car ( or truck ) should I buy ? "

Rick

 

[archangel95]

How serious are you about this ?

Have you used any gear for climbing before ?

What kind of budget do you have ?

Your question is almost like saying " What kind of car ( or truck ) should I buy ? "

Rick

Serious enough to take a class...

Never climbed with gear before.

I could spend $1,000 would feel better spending less than $500 though.

I'm very green any help is much appreciated...

 

[archangel95]

I doubt I will be climbing every day.

 

[VA-Sawyer]

Your first and most important piece of gear should be the saddle. I suggest Not buying one of the heavy cheap old style harness types.
Personally I climb on a GLIDE saddle. I've used it for about 3 years now and have been very happy with it. As far as I know it is no longer available and has been replaced by the GLIDE LIGHT. From what I have seen and read about it, I'm not sure it is as good.

I just recently purchased a COUGAR for my back up climber that I started training this summer. It seems to be a pretty good saddle for the money. It looks a lot like a knock off of my GLIDE. They did have a recall on the COUGAR rope bridges last month and you may have a bit of trouble finding a new one with the older style bridge. Mine was built just before they changed to the faulty new style bridge. They are supposed to be sending out replacement bridges soon, but I don't know the details of when. Despite the recall, I think this would be my first choice for a new climber saddle.


The second most important item is a climbing rope. I use the 24 strand double braid sold by Sherrill Tree under the name POISIN IVY. I happen to prefer the Hi-Vis version with one end spliced. I get mine in the 150' length as it seems to work best for the size of our local trees. You may consider saving some money and starting with a 120'. I would still suggest getting it with one end spliced.

Rick

 

[VA-Sawyer]

Is this class starting you on rope climbing first, and then adding spikes later, or are they going to start you out on spikes ?
Rick

 

[oldirty]

go to wesspur and have a look at their climbing kits. you got some money and seem willing to spend it. that 500 should put you right into their big money kit and that will have all you need to start to be able climb a tree.

but not the skill. that you gotta earn.


spend some loot and go big time. you may soon find out nothing better than climbing tree, man.

 

[tree md]

VA Sawyer has given you some excellent advice. I am also impressed with the Cougar saddle (though I have to admit I haven't climbed on it). It has all the features of the big boy saddles for a reasonable price. I wouldn't be worried to much about the bridge. I mean, I wouldn't climb on the recalled bridge but I make my own rope bridges anyhow. That obstacle can be overcome with a 2' length of safety blue climbing line and a couple of double fisherman knots more than likely. In any event, if you are going to school they are not going to let you climb on anything that is unsafe. I am a big fan of Poison Ivy as well. I have been climbing on it for over three years now and love it. It is good if you are going to learn to employ ascenders as it works well with mechanical devices. I would differ in opinion on the length of rope needed. I mean sure, if your climbing in TX or something where 60' is the highest you are likely to climb fine. However, I haven't been too many places where you are not going to encounter at least 100' trees. A 150' rope doubled will allow you to get 75' in a tree to work and safely come down. It is the least that I recommend.

If you are not sure, go the econo plan. If you know that you can handle it then spend all that you can afford. If you're going to be doing it for a living you might as well be as comfortable as possible and buy the best. Look at it as an investment in your future.

That' being said, I don't know ir

 

[tree md]

go to wesspur and have a look at their climbing kits. you got some money and seem willing to spend it. that 500 should put you right into their big money kit and that will have all you need to start to be able climb a tree.

but not the skill. that you gotta earn.


spend some loot and go big time. you may soon find out nothing better than climbing tree, man.

X2

If I was a new climber just getting into the game I would be very intrigued with the wesspur kits.

 

[VA-Sawyer]

Tree MD,

I suggested he might want to consider the 120' rope to save a little money. A few other reasons...... new climbers tend to get 'nervous' at the higher altitudes..... new climbers are more likely to nick their ropes....... shorter ropes are easier to manage..... personaly, I don't let new climbers work trees that need 200' of rope. I also think he is in Kansas, I'm under the impression they don't have that many 120' high trees there, but I could be wrong. ( And yes, I would use at least a 200' rope for a 120' high tree.

Once he gets a little bark under his belt and is doing serious climbing, then by all means he should invest in longer climbing lines. My first line was a 150' PI, but that was longer than I really needed in the beginning.

Rick

 

[tree md]

Good point.

Truth be told, 120' would work for 99% of the work I do here in Oklahoma. I came up working in Atlanta where I had to climb 100' trees everyday.

120' would be less expensive and prolly be a decent length to start out with in your area. Just keep an eye on it while coming down. I know lots of climbers who prefer to work on a short rope anyhow.

 

[VA-Sawyer]

I would like to revise my origional advice to Archangel95.

The very first thing you should buy is a book called 'The Tree Climbers Companion'. Read it twice cover to cover, then you will have a better idea of the kind of gear you will need for your type of climbing.

Others have suggested Wesspur and they are an OK outfit. I happen to get most of my stuff from Sherrill Tree. You might think of it as a Ford vs. Chevy kind of thing. One reason I like Sherrill stuff is I can get it through the 'local' Vermeer Dealers. This gives me a chance to get 'hands on' time with gear before buying. I used to do more traveling when I started my tree business, and I made a point of stopping at any Vermeer Dealer I passed near. Not such a big thing for me any more, but it was nice to be able to actually try on saddles and hang in them to see which was the most comfortable. ( actually I should say - the least uncomfortable to be honest.)

Rick

 

[beowulf343]

Jeez, this guy would like to spend less than $500, so let's start right out with a $300+ saddle? One of the buckingham "economy" saddles will be fine to start with for this guy. Can pick up a saddle for $150 easy. And what more is he going to need right now in the saddle department? He's not even at the point of knowing whether or not he's going to be afraid of heights. He isn't going to be spending all day-every day in it. He's not even going to be making a living in it for quite a while. Get something cheap, use it. Check out what the other guys in the class are using. Try something with a bridge (not all of us think bridges are the greatest thing since sliced bread.) Try something with leg loops and something with a batten seat to see which you like best. Have an idea of what you like and want to look for in a saddle before you shell out good money for one. Oldirty's wesspur kits are something to look into.

As for rope length, a little longer is not always a bad thing. I start with 200', not because i climb alot of trees that tall, but because i'm always cutting a bit off the end for this or that. 150', cut off enough for a couple lanyards and a couple split tails and you still have a decent working length of rope.

Just keep an eye on it while coming down.

Knot in the end.

 

[archangel95]

Thanks for all the great advice everyone. I think I will look into the wesspur kit. I had already looked at it once but didn't know if it was a good deal or not.

 

[Juliano]

response

why not go with the hivy instead its the same price, do not get a splice, learn to tie your own termination knots, buntline, anchor ect, get yourself an eye and eye and a split tail as well. sherrill offers some nice kits, i can relate to your situation cos i learned to climb from a class ,never once before, now i climb every day.

 

[VA-Sawyer]

I like the Sherrill kits better myself, but in reality, I tend to just get the items I want on a piece by piece basis rather than buying packages.

How about posting the gear list they gave you. I would be interested in seeing what they think you should own to start climbing.

Rick

 

[archangel95]

They didn't give me a gear list....

That's why i posted on here. I was hoping the veterans would say what the gear list should be...

 

[tree md]

Really all you need is a rope and saddle to climb. They will teach you to do removals with spikes and they are nice to have. If money is tight jut get a weaver or buckingham basic saddle and an arbormaster or safety blue rope. That should get you started and can be had for under $300.

I climbed on that stuff for years. There's nothing you cannot do with it.

I mentioned the Cougar saddle because I believe it is a good bang for your buck. If you plan on doing it for a living you might as well be comfortable. If you can afford it definitely look into one of the kits... Again, good bang for your buck.

 

[VA-Sawyer]

OK, I'm really going to stick my neck out and post my suggested starting gear list. I base these choices on the climber wanting to get the most value ( performance vs. cost ) possible and understanding that this is a serious investment. I'm trying to suggest good quality affordable gear that will hold up and be useful after you finish the class.
Almost everybody else will have different suggestions and most of them will have good reasons behind their choices. Like I said before, it really is a lot like asking a group what kind of car you should buy.
I have arranged the items in approx order of importance.
Prices and part numbers are from this years Sherrill catalog.
Try to get hands on with as much of this stuff as possible before buying. There is a Vermeer store a little over an hours drive away in Olathe. They are a sales store for Sherrill gear. I would STRONGLY suggest a visit there prior to buying any gear. Do a GOOGLE for Vermeer Kansas to get more info.

The minimum items to leave the ground are a saddle and climbing line. I add a carabiner and a book to this group as well.
Saddle : Buckingham Cougar. Size as required. Try on before buying. $229

Climbing line: Poison Ivy Hi-Vis 120' with splice on one end. For traditional climbing you don't need the splice, but it is nice when climbing on a split tail. Take good care of your climbing line and you should be climbing the spliced end about time the other end begins to wear. This line is fat enough to grip by hand and still thin enough to work with mechanical ascenders. PN PHI-120-S $134
Without splice PN PHI-120 $109

Carabiner #1 :For attaching climb line to bridge. Petzl Am'D Tri-Action PN 28337 $19

Book: Tree Climbers Companion PN 16217 $15


Next up is Personal Protective Equipment. Never climb without it.
Helmet: Petzl or Kask with chinstrap. I have a Vertex Vent, but buy whatever feels best on your head. Just make sure it is for Arborist use. $ 95 - $ 125 Earmuffs are optional till you start running a chainsaw.

Safety Glasses: Again choose for comfort and durability. $ 5 - $ 20

Footwear: If only using my handsaw, I will sometimes climb in tennis shoes. Steel toe work boots are better. Plan on getting steel toe, steel shank lineman boots for climbing on spikes. $ 50 - $ 500

Climbing gloves: Optional, but I find them pretty handy. I use the blue rubber coated style. PN ASUMG-BL $4

These next items make it possible to get your own rope in a tree and to secure yourself in the tree.
Throwline with weight: 150 ft Neon 3 with 14 oz Neo throw weight. PN SET90 $27
(You can use a 2 gallon bucket to store it in for now or buy the cheap Fold and Hold cube PN 28289 for $16.)

Lanyard: Lightning 2-in-1 12' with prusik. PN 33403 $77

Carabiner #2 : Same as biner #1 for use with Lanyard. PN 28337 $19

Cambium Protector: Leather tube to protect tree bark and extend the life of your climbing line. PN 30535 $ 21

Add a gear bag from Wal-Mart or even an old suitcase to keep your gear in. Depending on your helmet and footwear choices, you can get to this point for $750 to $850 invested.

Now you have the equipment needed to practice the basic skills learned in class. Add a handsaw and you could do simple pruning jobs. Notice I said 'could' and not 'can'. You still need to know what to cut and where to cut it, before doing any tree trimming.

From here, your gear choices depend on your style and type of climbing. Spikes for tree removals, eye to eyes for split-tail climbing, ascenders for long climbs..... the choices are endless.

Rick