Clutch won't come off (Homelite 7-29)

[NorthernLonewolf]

Hello to one and all.

I was wondering if anybody here has dealed with the Homelite 7-29/8-29 before and knows how to free the crankcase from the rest of the saw? I'm planning to put it on my Homelite "20MCS" (which looks like a 7-29, except the engine).

My current problem is the clutch nut won't come off. I've tried to think of different ways to get it off, but it won't budge.

 

[old guy]

You do know it's left hand thread?

 

[NorthernLonewolf]

You do know it's left hand thread?

Yes. I've tried getting it to turn clockwise.

 

[NorthernLonewolf]

Got it off with an impact wrench. It worked counter-clockwise. But I did indeed try both ways before, but it wouldn't budge. An impact wrench did the job.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Got it off with an impact wrench. It worked counter-clockwise. But I did indeed try both ways before, but it wouldn't budge. An impact wrench did the job.

Impact has always worked for me, no need to block the piston, just leave the sparkplug in and give it a quick blip. It pys to now exatly which direction to turn the nut to loosen it.

 

[NorthernLonewolf]

Now onto the clutch, which I guess will need two metal pieces and a long screwdriver or something else...

 

[NorthernLonewolf]

To update the issue, the clutch itself now won't come off. But I suppose I'll just need a long metal piece to get enough leverage to undo it. Clockwise I suppose it is, as the nut was counter-clockwise. According to what I saw on a certain YouTube video.

 

[NorthernLonewolf]

I applied a heat of 390 degrees Fahrenheit (290 Celcius) to it. Don't know if that's enough though.

 

[cbfarmall]

The clutch has 2 square keys holding it. Proper way to pull is to thread 2 screws into the spider which should have holes. Buy a small, inexpensive harmonic balance puller and a couple long screws (I forget which thread size). Assemble with washers and use steady force to pull. If you try to pry against the clutch drum you could damage the drum bearing when it pushes against the keys, or worse, damage the case.

Lots of clutches from this era come off this way, with a threaded puller. All Homelite saws are like this until they started threading the cranks and doing away with keys.

 

[NorthernLonewolf]

Got it off both flywheel and clutch off safely, finally. Now, onto putting everything onto the correct crankcase.

 

[NorthernLonewolf]

The other flywheel in better shape wouldn't come off, but I will try that tomorrow probably...

 

[NorthernLonewolf]

Now it came off. Held the saw upright, instead of down on it's side on the table... Anyway, now the question remains, are those ignition coils interchangeable? I believe one of them is from a 20MCS, and the one that was not having spark came on the actual 7-29.

 

[Pat Burton]

Hello to one and all.

I was wondering if anybody here has dealed with the Homelite 7-29/8-29 before and knows how to free the crankcase from the rest of the saw? I'm planning to put it on my Homelite "20MCS" (which looks like a 7-29, except the engine).

My current problem is the clutch nut won't come off. I've tried to think of different ways to get it off, but it won't budge.

Did you try blocking the piston with rope fed through the spark plug hole then rattling off with an impact gun. Left hand thread. Had to do this with snowmobile engines.

 

[Pat Burton]

Did you try blocking the piston with rope fed through the spark plug hole then rattling off with an impact gun. Left hand thread. Had to do this with snowmobile engines.

Read deeper. Sounds like issue resolved

 

[cbfarmall]

Hello to one and all.

I was wondering if anybody here has dealed with the Homelite 7-29/8-29 before and knows how to free the crankcase from the rest of the saw? I'm planning to put it on my Homelite "20MCS" (which looks like a 7-29, except the engine).

My current problem is the clutch nut won't come off. I've tried to think of different ways to get it off, but it won't budge.

I just read the opening paragraph. You plan to install the 7-29 block on a 20MCS frame? The 20 is the first generation belt drive. Homelite made alot of changes and created the follow-up 26LCS with is still a float carb saw but it shares more with the later saws. Putting a 7-29 motor in a 20mcs is like putting a 351 in a model T. Might be possible but why would you want to?

Find a 5-30N. That will provide everything you need to make a proper 129cc saw. Fuel tank is narrower is all.

 

[NorthernLonewolf]

To all: I did get an actual 7-29 parts saw. My goal is to get the good parts of the 20MCS onto the 7-29's missing parts.

 

[NorthernLonewolf]

Now I'm onto checking the coil, if it's faulty, I'm still thinking if I can replace it with the one from my first "7-29". I would need to disconnect the on/off switch wire...

 

[cbfarmall]

What parts are missing or are needed for the 7-29 that you are taking from the 20MCS. The ignition is about the other thing I can think that might work. I don't an IPL for the 20 but you can look over the stator for a Wico part number and see if they match.

 

[NorthernLonewolf]

I will try cleaning the points on the actual 7-29, as they were all black on the ends. Not so on the other one.

 

[ray benson]

What parts are missing or are needed for the 7-29 that you are taking from the 20MCS. The ignition is about the other thing I can think that might work. I don't an IPL for the 20 but you can look over the stator for a Wico part number and see if they match.