Compression Release?

[Crow99]

I've lurked on this site for a couple of years and just recently registered. You all seem like a very helpful and supportive bunch, so here goes with my first stupid question:

I just got my new Husqvarna 365 a few days ago.. now maybe this is just a case of the new saw jitters, I don't know... but I just about played myself out trying to start the darned thing. Following Husky's instructions for using the compression release, then a couple of pulls with the choke on, then choke off and keep pulling... I managed to flood it maybe 3 times. Dried it out, dried the plug, tried again... and so forth. A friend who's several years younger (and stronger)did manage to pull the starter hard enough to get it going a few times, but it was just beyond me. Just couldn't get it turning fast enough or something.

Soooo.... bright idea... I tried pulling it through without using the compression release and... whoah!! It started right up. It was a pretty stout pull, but it would fire every time, first or second pull when hot, and choke on, 1 pull, then choke off when cold. An amazing difference to say the least. Now I realize that fuel, spark, and compression are all necessary for things to work, so I'm guessing that with the CR pushed in there just wasn't enough compression. Maybe (?) this will self- correct when the saw's fully broken in and the ring seated, I can't say, but it appears that for now using the CR just doesn't work very well.. My 3-year old 359 works just fine using the release and always has, btw.

As things break in and presumably the compression increases a bit, I imagine I may want to be able to start using the release, but I'm afraid there still won't be enough compression, so here's the question: Do any of you know if Husqvarna (or aftermarket) makes a compression release that releases less compression, or alternatively, if there's a way to set or alter the present one so it gives more compression but still releases enough to make starting a bit easier?

Thanks.

 

[Rokon]

Never heard of a decomp release that was adjustable.

There probably is some merit to more break in before the release works as intended.

I never use the release...I want the saw to start right NOW!!

 

[1Alpha1]

The MS261 I just bought has a compression release. The dealer that sold me the saw, said that he never uses um.

A customer standing near-by, piped in and said that using it saves wear and tear on the starter rope.

I haven't started mine up as of yet, so I don't know how easy it will be to start.

 

[H 2 H]

The MS261 I just bought has a compression release. The dealer that sold me the saw, said that he never uses um.

A customer standing near-by, piped in and said that using it saves wear and tear on the starter rope.

I haven't started mine up as of yet, so I don't know how easy it will be to start.

261 starts to easy you really dont need to use it dano

When cold just put it on choke pull the cord a few times kick it up to the next step and pull again :msp_smile:

4 pull max to start

I have started my 261 with decop but I don't see using it unless you have had cylinder work done to your 261

 

[excess650]

I don't use the CR, but can see how it would save wear on the starter. When I rebuilt my 660 I plugged the CR hole because I had already found that my 066BB started easier without using the CR.

 

[Crow99]

Thanks, guys. Seems as though the short consensus is to not bother that much with the compression release. I'm coming to that conclusion too. Maybe it'll change some when fully broken in.

As far as wear on the starter... which wears it more, a dozen pulls with the release engaged (and saw doesn't start), or one or two harder pulls with the release off (and then the saw starts...)? I don't read or hear about too many worn out starters. And rope is cheap.

 

[Rustynutz]

Hi there and welcome to A.S.C

generally the pressure release is used to make priming a little easier.

on my Dolmar it go's: switch on, choke full, press CR and pull a couple of times till it fires and resets the CR, now choke off and engage throttle lock, one good pull should get it running (on some machines it's half or quarter choke) but only at full pressure.

you often find different saws like different methods to start I have a number of saws so when I find the best way for that saw I wright it down so I know what to do on each one, don't worry we all do that on new machines till we find the best way, and remember if it don't start up after two or three full pressure pulls go make a coffee drink it and start again, no point burning yourself out on a flooded engine.

good luck.

 

[Little Al]

When you reach the Old Fart`s league as I have, I find I need all the help i can get with larger cc saws, the ones I have over 6occ`s are all fitted with comp release , they all start up with it engaged. i would have thought that your saw should have at least popped & dis engaged the comp release even if it wouldn`t start. I know guys will say you don`t need it,but the manufacturers put it there for a reason, so you might as well use it, if you feel the need. I would suggest you return to the place of purchase & get them to sort it.

 

[dingeryote]

Crow,

Welcome, and congrats on the new 365, the slightly smaller jugged 372...the greatest saw ever created.:hmm3grin2orange:

Your saw is new, and probably not tuned spot on yet. As the rings seat, the tune will change a bit as well.
Which leads to some goofy starting.

Next time ya get her up and running, get the low side tuned dead nuts(sit and then shake- crisp throttle method), and the H tuned just slightly on the rich side of things so it just cleans up with a bit of push in the cut. When the rings finally seat, you wont have to fuss much at all except spring and fall when air density drasticly changes.

On a dead cold saw, never go more than 3 pulls with the choke, and you should be able to avoid flooding. With or without the CR.
It should start within 2-3 pulls from there with the choke off, using the CR or not, provided the thing is close to a good state of tune.

Another thing to look at is fuel. Odds are you aren't running the same stuff the tech used to do the initial tune on the saw.
I have had to re-tune every time I changed where I got gas, and back when I was running pump gas, had to re-tune with they changed from summer to winter blend at the same station.

Once you get a good tune on her, and get into a rythm with the thing, starting should get a lot easier with the CR.
Hang in there!!

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[Cantdog]

Welcome to the site!! Sounds like you've got it sorted out pretty much. Never heard of exactly what you describe.....but I think you are probably right about it starting better once it's completely broken in and you may well enjoy the decomp then. A new saw always makes a fella think to much about what is or possibly could go wrong!!! As you can see by my sig........I don't have any running saws with a decomp so I don't have tremendous experience with them. I built a 262XP for a friend a couple yrs ago...went completely through it.....new bearings/seals..new piston.. ported it as far as was possible...dropped the squish to 0.020" etc. etc. The thing started right up fine...sounded great but I could not get it to idle no matter how I adjusted the carb. My first thought was "Oh #### what have I done????" Have I messed up the porting???? And ruined this guys saw??? Like you said "New saw jitters".....Then I noticed a bunch of black snot drizzeling out around the decomp....I had bead blasted the cyl so it was very obvious..pulled the decomp out and plugged the hole...the thing started right up and idled perfectly....the decomp was not sealing properly. This saw really needed a decomp as I was using it to break it in and it kicked back when starting once and there was a very bad sound of complaining plastic from the recoil....I thought I had broken the recoil it sounded so bad. Took it apart and it was fine but when the new decomp arrived I wasted no time installing it and cautioned the owner about the need to use it.....this light saw had over 200lbs of compression though. Good luck wth your new saw....you'll come up with the right combination for it ...and you.....

 

[Crow99]

I liked Little Al's comment about the Old Fart's League. Yup, I'm there myself. A lot of my work can go pretty slow. I said to a young friend who was cleaning up some of his trees that there are 3 things that he had that I no longer have: Youth, Energy, and Help. :msp_smile:

As for fuel, I was given the saw with about 1/2 tank of gas (and some bar oil) by the dealer. I'd thought about the fuel as maybe being a problem, so I dumped it into my pickup and filled the tank with some Tru Fuel mixed at 3/4 oz of Husqvarna oil to 1 quart. My other stuff starts and runs well with this mix. But using the CR still caused it to be hard / impossible to start. With no CR it fires right off though, and when used this way it's now actually about my fastest starting 2 stroke.

With the initial carb settings it sounded like it was just about drowning on the low end so I leaned it a bit there (still 4-strokes heavily) and a tiny bit on the high side too. Acceleration is good with no noticeable lean spots, so I think I'll be good to go there. I'll be careful to not lean out the high side too much though.

Funny too, I notice that HV has relocatd their compression release from the side to the top. Being on the top and surrounded by the plastic cover makes it necessary to take the top cover off in order to manually close the CR... as in when somebody's looking at the saw and says, "Oh, this must be the compression release (and pushes button down)....." Grrrrr...

Hey, it's all good, and I'm looking forward to this being a great saw.

 

[redoakneck]

I think all my saws start better without the de-comp on. I wear gloves and trying to push the de-comp in is a pain. I should glue a small nut on them to make it easier to push in.

 

[o8f150]

i have decomps on mine but i never use them