Crank Bearing Removal (PIC HEAVY)

[cedarshark]

Regarding bearing removal from Stihl clamshell motors. Removing the bearings from the crank with a puller is difficult because of the clearance between the back of the bearing and the crank lobe. It is almost impossible to get the jaw from a puller under the lip of the bearing. The bearing puller that the OP listed a pic of at the outset of this thread looks to be specifically designed for getting into very tight spaces.
Freezing the crank prior to assembly and heating the bearing will almost cause a "drop on" assembly of the bearing. I am hesitant to heat the bearing much because some AM bearings come with plastic cages and I fear too much heat may distort the cage.

Good info from lonewolf on the definition of "interference". Thanks

 

[cedarshark]

Honestly , it takes longer to get the bushings in and out of the handles then the entire piston/cyl .
I got a few of them here if you ever want to fiddle win one.

I find soapy water makes that job much easier.

 

[angelo c]

Yes, I ran into one on a ms 180 this weekend that I had to slide the engine out just to attach the handle to. The idea of moving the engine to replace a plug for the "bushing" was tough to accept....but it did.
Stihl clams get so easy when you've done a few.

 

[angelo c]

I would like to try that?

Just say when...make it soon, you're gonna be busy in a few weeks when this white stuff goes away.

 

[lone wolf]

Just say when...make it soon, you're gonna be busy in a few weeks when this white stuff goes away.

Mail it?

 

[angelo c]

Mail it?

Naw, c'mon up. It's warm in the basement... !!!

 

[lone wolf]

Naw, c'mon up. It's warm in the basement... !!!

That will be in a good while then.

 

[295 tramp]

When I started fiddling with chainsaws I didn't have most of the tools I have now. So if you don't have the right tools you improvise. I only have a few factory service tools most of which are Husqvarna and they are widely use on other saws also. So take for instance how you split that case. Before I invested in a case splitter I would secure half of the case in a vice.
With all the bolts removed I would heat the side facing me with a torch that has a pencil type tip to put the heat right where I wanted it.
Once heated I used a brass drift and tapped the crank and bearing out of the case. I have a bearing puller similar to yours. If I didn't I wouldn't use heat and just tap the crank out of the bearing. Then I would heat the case and tap out the bearing.
OK for the installation I have a crank install tool for a 281xp and I made a draw bolt similar to work on my Olympyk.
But before, I improvised. I have a large vice on my bench and when I installed bearings on a crank I have a seal installer and is a perfect match to the bearing it presses the inner and outer race together. I don't use heat to press them on.
today I installed a set of bearings on a stihl 440 and you know the pto side bearing has a taller outer race than the inner. I use washers to make up the difference. I like to press both race to have equal pressure. So bearings on the crank heat the case half and it should drop right in. Sometimes the other half of the case might not go all the way down like it should. In that case I install the bolts around the center and tighten equally and it will pull it together. Once I have all the bolts snug I give the crank a tap with a brass drift to center it up. You get the idea. Sorry for rambling on.

 

[angelo c]

When I started fiddling with chainsaws I didn't have most of the tools I have now. So if you don't have the right tools you improvise. I only have a few factory service tools most of which are Husqvarna and they are widely use on other saws also. So take for instance how you split that case. Before I invested in a case splitter I would secure half of the case in a vice.
With all the bolts removed I would heat the side facing me with a touch that has a pencil type tip to put the heat right where I wanted it.
Once heated I used a brass drift and tapped the crank and bearing out of the case. I have a bearing puller similar to yours. If I didn't I wouldn't use heat and just tap the crank out of the bearing. Then I would heat the case and tap out the bearing.
OK for the installation I have a crank install tool for a 281xp and I made a draw bolt similar to work on my Olympyk.
But before, I improvised. I have a large vice on my bench and when I installed bearings on a crank I have a seal installer and is a perfect match to the bearing it presses the inner and outer race together. I don't use heat to press them on.
today I installed a set of bearings on a stihl 440 and you know the pto side bearing has a taller outer race than the inner. I use washers to make up the difference. I like to press both race to have equal pressure. So bearings on the crank heat the case half and it should drop right in. Sometimes the other half of the case might not go all the way down like it should. In that case I install the bolts around the center and tighten equally and it will pull it together. Once I have all the bolts snug I give the crank a tap with a brass drift to center it up. You get the idea. Sorry for rambling on.

How bout ya snap off a pic of that husky crank install tool ?
Always help a "TAD" junkie (tool addiction disorder) get his fix when you can !!!!

 

[295 tramp]

Here's the crank installation tool I made for the flywheel side of the olympyk 980. I take a photo of the factory service tool for the 281,288 and 3120xp tomorrow.

Here's what to look for to know it's a 980
View attachment 391623

I'll take a photo this evening of a 970 cylinder to compare.
Well since I split the case I'll install new bearings,seals and gasket. I needed a crank install tool for the flywheel side. My oem crank install tool for my husky 281 works on thte clutch side of the 980. I made one for the flywheel side.
3/4 bolt x 2" center tapped 8mm x 1.0, a short piece of 3/4 pipe and 2 3/4 washers.
View attachment 391628
View attachment 391630

 

[pantelis]

How bout ya snap off a pic of that husky crank install tool ?
Always help a "TAD" junkie (tool addiction disorder) get his fix when you can !!!!

Here it is man

 

[lone wolf]

Here it is man

You have one for Stihl too right? How many did you make yet?

 

[pantelis]

And here how it work

 

[pantelis]

You have one for Stihl too right? How many did you make yet?

this can close and stihls, dolmars , makitas, poulans, and everything with name chainsaw.
the diferent that you must make diferent bolt with diferent inside threads to fit in diferent saws , for example some saws have coarse thread, some have fine.
the tool in the picture is husqvarna oem and used for pull the shaft to the half body clutch side
but the video show how to use it , its the same use.

 

[pantelis]

Honestly , it takes longer to get the bushings in and out of the handles then the entire piston/cyl .
I got a few of them here if you ever want to fiddle win one.

if you have dificult bushings some saws have, use a piece of string and the intake boot method , see some service manuals and you understand what i mean , and soap or soapy water.

 

[pantelis]

you can take the flywheels nuts for the saws that you need to service , and weld theese nuts to bolts , the other is the same , so you have one tool for many diferent saws, and also dont please the man with the lathe.

 

[angelo c]

Here it is man

Just " slightly" less complicated then the "stihl" version

thanks buddy...

 

[pantelis]

Just " slightly" less complicated then the "stihl" version

thanks buddy...

This think cost about 50 euros , ............................. i can not make one as you know

 

[lly_duramax]

Well to update the thread the project got thrown under the bench for a while then I got a wild hair and finished it. I didn't take any pictures. Dad has the saw now and it's doing fine. I suck at threads because I work on the road and it may take me months or years to complete a project. I reinstalled the bearings with heat only no special tools.